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  1. #1
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    2005 honda bf150. Shaft question. Updated with new set up.

    I currently own a 2005 honda bf150 outboard on a 97 ranger r82 sport bass boat. I love this motor and boat but I'm running into some minor stuff that can be improve. The motor is a extra long shaft(25). My question is. Does anyone know all the parts needes to convert this over to a long shaft (20). I have a 6 inch rite hite jack plate and I can't get the motor high enough for the pad to prop. The closest I got it is 5 1/2 below the pad. That's all the way up on the bolt hole and Jack plate. I want to convert this to a 20 inches shaft so I don't have to sit my motor crazy high.
    Last edited by Phongr82bf150; 01-25-2021 at 08:40 AM.

  2. Honda / Raymarine Moderator Hickory Legend's Avatar
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    #2
    Looks like there is a different part number for a 20 and 25 gear case. So you might be better off trading or selling your outright and buying another.
    Thehulltruth there is some Honda stuff on there for sale and parting out, also folks looking to buy!!

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    #3
    Well that rise another question than. If i switch over to a hydraulic jack plate. 10 inches or 12 inches. With the motor up higher. Will I be looking into any problems?
    Last edited by Hickory Legend; 03-27-2017 at 01:13 PM.

  4. Honda / Raymarine Moderator Hickory Legend's Avatar
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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Phongr82bf150 View Post
    Well that rise another question than. If i switch over to a hydraulic jack plate. 10 inches or 12 inches. With the motor up higher. Will I be looking into any problems?
    Not that I can see. Should work fine!!

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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Hickory Legend View Post
    Not that I can see. Should work fine!!
    I been looking at some other brand jack plate. My new question is. Will the mounting hole to my transom be the same as rite hite? Or I will have to re-drill?

  6. Honda / Raymarine Moderator Hickory Legend's Avatar
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    #6
    I think all the transom bolt holes are are the same. Call them to make sure.

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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Hickory Legend View Post
    I think all the transom bolt holes are are the same. Call them to make sure.
    Thank you. I'll call and check when I decide to go that route.

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    #8
    Time for some questions to see if you guys can help me out. I have read almost all the honda outboard post in here related to my honda motor. I found out they like to run high. Holeshot plate helps with holeshot and plug solid vent on prop. Run battery as far forward as possible. Don't follow 2 stroke theory on prop.

    Here a little specs I'm on right now.
    Boat runs 47 mph gps consistent, on a good calm day 51 mph gps.
    Rpm is around 6100-6200.
    Good holeshot but once livewell is full on tournament load and 2 guys. It can be sluggish.
    I still have another 1 inches to move up on my jackplate but my prop doesn't like it. Starts to loose grip. But my motor is still pretty low under water.
    Prop is a Solas 4 blade 14 1/8x19

    What prop can i go with to help my reach around 55-56gps.

    I know my boat is slow but my mpg and always making back home great. I just want to improve. I feel this motor should be able to reach me there with the correct prop.

  9. Member
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    #9
    The 25" shaft is killing your holeshot. Finding parts to change back to a 20" will be tough. Selling your motor to a Salt water guy would be a dream and then purchase a 20". It is possible to install a larger (more setback) jackplate to help a bit. I would try a three blade propeller such as a 22" or a 20" pitch for more speed. Scratching my head and wondering how you have a 25" motor???

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    #10
    Just an idea hondaray is it simple like taking out my extension spacer. Changing the water pick up tube and gear shaft. New bolts, and side cover? I don't know. It's just something I came up with thinking. My boat when it's in the water. The motor is heavy that my ranger sits so low in the water compare to another saner ranger with a mariner motor. Would've the setback of a new jack plate weight the back end mire down?

    22" and 20" pitched 3 blade. What brand/model do you recommend?

    I would hate to go threw with selling the motor and buying another one. If it comes down to it that nothing is possible to fix some minor stuff. I'm still happy with the boat/motor

    I bought this boat from an old guy. But whoever he bought it from had the motor install.

  11. Honda / Raymarine Moderator Hickory Legend's Avatar
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    #11
    I didnt see a spacer on the lower unit on the parts list like they have on a 30 inch Lower Unit.
    Like ray said going with a 20 inch lower unit would be the preferred way. Now do you sell yours or just swap lower units.
    I know where you can get a 150 for 11K brand new with a 5 year warranty.

    Yes going back and adding a Hydrolic JP will cause it to set a little lower!!

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    #12
    Shorter driveshaft, Midsection and plastic should do it, but that is a mouth full when you start to purchase. What I would think, your motor (complete) will sell very well. For what you would spend in parts for the changeover, you could add this to your money from the 25" motor and buy a new one??? Or almost.
    But I may know someone with a 20" driveshaft. The other parts, I do not know???

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    #13
    Just an update. I haven't gave up yet. Made a holeshot plate, move my battery in-line. Took the boat out for to test the holeshot with the changes. It made a big differences for sure. Tournament load and full livewell. No more sluggish holeshot. Next I tested a yamaha v max 150 prop, 23 pitch it had vent hole that I couldn't plug. What i found out. Prop slip on holeshot. Top out @48mph and 5200 rpm. Yes I lost a lot of rpm. My 19p prop same day test ran 46mph at 6200rpm. Water conditions was 15 mph wind and chop on the water

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    #14
    Next I'll be testing a tempest plus 23p with all vent hole plug. I just wanna see what speed and rpm I'll get from this prop.

  15. Member bamabassmaster's Avatar
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    #15
    Try to find a 21p prop to try also.
    1995 Javelin 400TE w/ 2015 Honda 225
    2001 War Eagle 648 w/ 2001 Honda 50 jet




  16. Member
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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by bamabassmaster View Post
    Try to find a 21p prop to try also.
    Yes a 21p or 22p is on the list also. Just cost too much to buy and resale.

    I did notice that the 3 blade 23p didn't have any vibration compare to my 19p 4 blade.

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    #17
    I have some Yamaha props that I had the vent holes welded shut by a prop shop. Make sure you are getting wide open throttle (at the engine) and this is a little difficult on the 150. Maybe have the prop pitched down 1/2 inch. You are getting close and good work on your setup. Most people will not go to the trouble to change the battery, and make a hole shot plate. AND as you stated: It does make a difference!

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    #18
    Hondaray about the full throttle. I did make some adjustments on the throttle body valve because It seem like I was only 95 percent open. The adjustment got me 100 percent wide open throttle. I was out with the boat last weekend and the water conditions was glass. I was able to run 48mph with my rpm tech sitting at 6400rpm. I know my tech is a little off. Do you know anything about hooking up a nmea 2000 to a humminbird HELIX 10 si mega?

  19. Honda / Raymarine Moderator Hickory Legend's Avatar
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    #19
    Do you have digital guages for the motor or the NMEA cable run up to the dash?

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    #20
    I think your tach should be set on #1. I adjust the linkage arm from the cable to the throttle body.

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