Champ 200 Elite: Mounting Lowrance HDS-9

[Ed R]

Sonar sharing via Ethernet:

ftp://software.lowrance.com/_dir_etc...20Ethernet.pdf

[grout-scout]

In my search for the part number the other day, I did run across a couple of sites that showed them in stock.

Good deal, seen several guys on the lowrance board having issues finding them. They might not have been looking very hard though.

[BOW4UM]

Tx Champ - I'm impressed very nice setup. I like Ed R as well!

[Tx Champ]

Reggie, I understand the need for a switch between the HDS 10 and a 520C stand alone units with only one transducer. But, if all of your units are linked by Ethernet you should be able to choose 83/200 or LSS1 sonar from your HDS 10 with out the use of a switch.

I run a HDS9 and an HDS10 at the bow with a HDI transducer off of the trolling motor. The transducer is direct to the 9 and then Ethernet to the 10. The 10 is just a slave unit for 9, all info for the 10 comes from the 9.

I am not real familiar with the 520c so I may be missing something.

Ed, yessir I'm aware and have all my units networked via Ethernet and NMEA 2K. TheLMS-520c is older technology, 5" color screen sonar w/mapping. When running, I use it for my 2D and have mapping up full screen on the HDS-10. when I switch, I can use the HDS full screen sonar or split screen. I have an HDS-7 at the bow. In actuality, the HDS-10 has become a HDS-12 gen 3 due to a bad NMEA 2K port on the 10. So, that has me working toward StructureScan 3D and upgrading the HDS-7 or move it to the dash and sell the 520 ... it never ends

[Ed R]

It never ends, no kidding! Thats why I use my 10 as a slave unit, bad/dead NMEA 2K port on mine as well. I just use it as a dedicated sonar unit, but it does a good job.

[Tx Champ]

Hmmm ... must be a design problem with the 10. I had 2 of them that ended up with bad serial ports.

[fishthenation]

Ed R and Reggie, THANK YOU. I like that you mounted the Structure Scan to the Jack Plate. I have the same plate as Reggie, not sure if Ed has same?

Ed, did you have to drill new holes into Jack Plate? My mount is identical which came with the Structure Scan 3D. Looks like a fairly simple mount.

My local marina was telling me to mount it to the step in back of hull (same step as drain plugs), of course I'd rather not drill into fiberglass, especially if something happens to it. . Not sure why they didn't think about mounting to jack plate. Are there any issues with the Structure Scan not being below the back of hull? Is there intereference from boat/motor?

I like where both you guys mounted, and I like the Tranducer Shield what are both of your thoughts on these shields?

Finally, Reggie, I believe you used the hole which is already in the Jack Plate. Is this the only hole/bolt you fastened to? And is the Transducer Shield and Saver L bracket and mount "ready to go"? Meaning is this something I just call and order?

Thanks more than a million!!!!

[Ed R]

FTN, I have a 10" SlideMaster JP. I used two 3/4" self tapping screws to mount the bracket to the cross plate on the Slidemaster. No drilling needed. Just use a socket on a drill. Get the screw started, add a little pressure and it will drill and thread itself through the plate. 3/4" is the longest screw you could use without hitting the boat.

Your LSS2, from what I have read, is a bit heavier than the LSS1. Some users are having a problem with the factory mount holding the LSS2 in a horizontal position. So the Transducer Shield & saver that Reggie used may be your best bet.

There is no problem mounting the Side Scan above the bottom of the hull, it just needs to be in the water when off plane. Side Scan will not work on plane. It only works off plane looking/scanning the bottom and sides. Just make sure it is below the JP and not obstructed on the left or right.

My console units. HDS 7T and an HDS 8 on the side. HDS 8 mounted with a Johnny Ray JR 207 mount. Both units linked through the LSS1 box under the console. Both units have S/S, Downscan, and 2D sonar. Also linked to a point 1 antenna.



Bow units, HDS 9T and HDS 10. 10 mounted with J-R JR 207, 9T mounted on a DeckIt mount. Both units linked with Ethernet, both units have HDI & 2D sonar. I can also link all units by plugging a second Ethernet cable into the 9T back to the LSS1 box and use the side scan from the bow if needed. The 9T is linked to the Point 1 antenna through the N2K system. The 10 has a bad N2K port, so it is used as a slave unit to the 9T for HDI & 2D sonar and side scan if needed.

[Tx Champ]

Scap, the owner of Transducer Shield and Saver, tries to use existing holes if present on his Jack Plate L brackets. On mine, I drilled the rear hole to tap it and used too big of bit for the aluminum trim piece and the bolt stripped out. I took it to a buddy and he filled the hole and dressed it down. I need to pull it off and get to a drill press, which I didn't use the first time either. The one bolt has held it pretty solid, so I've not worried about it too much.

Your StructureScan only works at slow speed, so mounting to the jack plate is OK. If you are using the TotalScan transducer and using it for 2D as well, then you need to have it in the water at high speed.

[champdean]

Reggie, could you please give me the sight where I can get that SS transducer mount for the jack plate thank you looks good

[Tx Champ]

http://www.transducershieldandsaver.com

[champdean]

Thanks ,Reggie

[fishthenation]

Hi guys. I received the 6" ballzout mount today. Not sure I like the Red Color lol. I'm a bit in the dark where to mount it, and when I do how to truly secure it. I've attached pics of my console and areas in consideration.could you give me advice on the following?

1). Can I mount it to the Fiberglass? And if so, will it secure well enough? What type of screws? Looks like I may need the 9" mount, as the Fiberglass is a bit far. Also may need to grind down a side of the mount.

2). Have any of you guys mounted it to the soft black area as in pic below, above controls. I need to look what is underneath, but seems like a nice spot?

Thanks again! FTN

[Ed R]

I would not mount it to the plastic, don't think it is solid enough. If you can take the mounting-head off of that mount and turn it around, you may be able to angle the unit to you and have enough room. I would mount it on the fiberglass where you have it, but I think I would slide the mount to you, to the edge. Easy access up under the dash, I'd drill all the way through and use some stainless screw bolts and nuts.

Of course, set your 9T to the mounting unit and make sure you can set it the way you want it before drilling any holes.

[Tx Champ]

Where you have it sitting in the bottom shot is about where mine is, maybe a bit closer to the plastic. Mine is secured with 3/8" stainless screws with flat washers and fiber lock nuts on the bottom. If I bring the boat here this weekend, I'll get a shot from the driver position.

[grout-scout]

Agree with both above about the location. Something you can do to get a little cushion under it and raise it a tiny tad is to get some stiff foam (or rubber) and put under the mount. It'll also help if your spot isn't completely flat to fill in the curve.

[Tx Champ]

Added pix above ... man, I need to do some detailing

[Heavy M]

Where did you get the Champion plate for the Bow?

I want to add a Bow mounted fish finder just like you did

[fishthenation]

Thanks again! Can I ask what rubber you would recommend under the mount?

[grout-scout]

Our dealership showed me what they used and I used it on my ex-Skeeter. It was a really stiff foam used on some furniture movers that Home Depot sales. I'll post a pic in a minute; but anything that compresses will work fine for what you need.


This is what they (and I) used, you pull the foam part off of the bottom. Worked pretty good, but you could also buy some cheap knee pads and steal the cushion from them. Just need something to adjust to the contours.