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  1. Member
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    #61

    What is this 4 wire TMotor deal and HOW do I connect ?

    I have a 1986 Javelin with a Trolling Motor Control Panel in the bow with a Charging/Trolling lever. The foot pedal has a 3 prong like a dryer to the control panel. Yes, this is an OLD OMC Cobra trolling motor but it still works fine and I dont fish that much so I want to make it work. There are 2 reds and 2 blacks running from the bow to the back battery trays so I know 1 red and 1 black for each battery .... but does it matter which wires? Second question... HOW do I charge these at the same time with 1 charger/maintainer or can I ?

    Battery Trays2.jpg ControlPanelBow.jpg TrollingMotor2.jpg

  2. Member
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    #62
    Hi folks,

    Hopefully someone can rate my options as to which would be most preferred......

    Recently acquired Tracker Tournament v18 so I don't know much history. It would appear the TM blows fuses often enough there were several laying about when I went in and around the compartments to do a good cleaning. For me, the 12V MotorGuide TM was working for a few outings, but the 30A fuse at the battery blew on the last trip and got me into looking at the wiring.

    I have a MinnKota Edge 70 24V that will be replacing the almost 20 year old 12V MotorGuide. The wiring on the boat has 4 individual and identifiable 8 gauge wires running from the rear port battery compartment. The two POS+ are individually fused at the battery. There is a female receiver at the bow with the four wires each providing separate positive or negative. I believe the receiver is a RigRite 425. The male end on the MotorGuide has two live pins and two blanks and provides 12V from one pair of the pins in the 425 receiver.

    I see that RigRite has a male connector 420 for what appears to be both 12V and 24V (depending upon which leads one uses)with the jumper connecting the two batteries inside the connector for 24V ?

    A couple things then. The 420 connector puts two batteries in series by jumping them at the connector? If so, how would this compare to replacing the male plug and female receptacle with new two leads versions by combining the four 8g wires into two pairs and making the series connection at the batteries? I suppose the second route would involve a new breaker switch and eliminate the two 30A inline fuses. Last, if I get the 420 connector will the individual 30A fuses respond appropriately?

    Thanks for your consideration

  3. New England Forum Moderator twitch's Avatar
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    #63
    I have a question pertaining to the 4 wire system in my 1990 Ranger , I have 1 red wire and 1 black wire and 1 orange wire and 1 white wire that go to my batteries, I charge through my front panel and the other day changed the end of the plug that goes to the charger. But didn't see any jumpers there would the jumpers be on the socket side up front just curious everything seems to be working correctly ???
    1990 374V Ranger Still kickin' bass after all these years

  4. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #64
    Quote Originally Posted by twitch View Post
    I have a question pertaining to the 4 wire system in my 1990 Ranger , I have 1 red wire and 1 black wire and 1 orange wire and 1 white wire that go to my batteries, I charge through my front panel and the other day changed the end of the plug that goes to the charger. But didn't see any jumpers there would the jumpers be on the socket side up front just curious everything seems to be working correctly ???
    Do you use a charge/run switch? If so, that takes care of the jumping.
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  5. New England Forum Moderator twitch's Avatar
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    #65
    no charge jump switch on my boat , I just pug into the front panel recepticle ,but didn't notice any jumper the other day when I was checking the connections on the male plug?? So I figure it has to be on the female part in the front panel correct??
    1990 374V Ranger Still kickin' bass after all these years

  6. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #66
    Quote Originally Posted by twitch View Post
    no charge jump switch on my boat , I just pug into the front panel recepticle ,but didn't notice any jumper the other day when I was checking the connections on the male plug?? So I figure it has to be on the female part in the front panel correct??
    That’s likely.

    You can’t charge series batteries with a single charger without moving wires around to charge. That’s what a charge/run switch does.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  7. Member
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    #67
    1) Is your TM a 12V (running on 2 parallel batteries) or 24V or both (with a 12/24 switch on the TM or foot pedal)?
    2) Does your TM have 3 wires or 2? (Not pertinent to the charging plug operation)
    3) Does the new charging plug work? Does the charger's needle register when the charger's powered up & plugged into the receptacle?
    4) Is your receptacle a 12/24 receptacle or just a 12 Volt receptacle?
    5) What kind of plug did you switch to? Was it a plug specifically designed to be a 4 hole, charging plug and not a trolling plug?
    Example: The newer MotorGuide trolling plugs have 4 holes, but only electrically connect to 2 prongs in the receptacle (12V parallel, or 24V or 36V in series - jumped at the battery).
    If this were the case, when you look into the holes, you only see 2 connectors and they're not jumped (as perhaps, you saw - I don't know).

    I'll take a stab and guess that you run a 24V TM and have a 12V/24V receptacle (Since you have red and orange wire).
    If true, then your 4 wire system is designed to charge both batteries in parallel while also allowing for a "jump" to 24V in series.
    If you only run a 12V TM (w/2 batteries in parallel), then ignore most of what follows. (Because I'm rambling).

    The way I see it (w/o proper training or knowledge) the 24V jump has to be in the trolling motor plug (if 24V is applicable).
    If the jump was in the receptacle, you'd have to have 2 receptacles (1 in series and 1 in parallel - just as you now have 2 plugs for 1 receptacle). Because if the 24V was jumped in the receptacle, the batteries would be in series at the receptacle and you can't charge that way.

    A 4 hole charging plug that plugs into a 12V/24V receptacle will have 2 jumps.
    The 2 jumps (Pos-Pos) & (Neg-Neg) on a 4 hole charging plug create a parallel system, just like hooking up 2 batteries in parallel).
    So you are connecting 2 batteries with 2 jumps and then can charge both batteries at the same time, in parallel, with 1 plug.

    Your new plug w/o 4 terminals and 2 jumps (as I interpreted) might only be connected to 1 set of wires in the receptacle or it might not be connected at all (depending on the placement of the receptacle's wiring on it's pins and the plug's holes and wiring)
    You might wanna check your terminals in your receptacle and see if there's 12V each, on 2 sets of pins.

    Example: If 12V of power runs diagonally on 1 pair of pins in the receptacle and 12V diagonally on the other pair and the positives were on the same side of the receptacle then you'd have + & - running across the top. It would be the + of 1 battery and the - of the other.
    Which is the same direction of a new MotorGuide trolling plug (+/-) terminals across the top (not diagonally).
    I don't know if that would work (how could it?), completely not work at all, only work on 1 battery or show some type of false reading.
    But it would seem to me that the other 2 battery terminals wouldn't be connected at the charging plug unless you had 2 jumpers in the plug.

    So make sure your new plug is a 4 hole charging plug with 4 terminals and that it's 2(+) & 2(-) match exactly to the 2(+) & 2 (-) pins of your 4 prong 12V/24V receptacle.
    Last edited by 2MilesHigh; 07-13-2020 at 04:14 AM.

  8. New England Forum Moderator twitch's Avatar
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    #68
    2MilesHigh you just totally confused the crap out of me. All I know is that my boat does not have a 12/24 switch or charge and run switch .It has 4 wires and I plug my charger into the front panel and charge both my trolling motor batteries at one time and run a 24volt Motorguide Great White have been for the last 20 years and all is good ,so I have to say that I'm set , no jumpers on the batteries and no jumpers on the plug on charger .So it must be jumped on the recpticle where the trolling motor plugs in and the charger plugs into also when charging ..
    1990 374V Ranger Still kickin' bass after all these years

  9. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #69
    Do you have a special plug to use for the charger hookup? If so, the plug on your TM is jumpered to make 24V, while the charging plug is configured to charge both batteries from a single charger. Been so long since I’ve messed with one of those I had nearly forgotten about them.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  10. New England Forum Moderator twitch's Avatar
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    #70
    Well this morning I tested the recpticle with my volt meter and got 12.8 and 12.7 on different holes so I plugged my trolling motor in and took the plug apart and got 25.6 at the 2 wires inside the plug so I'm getting 24 volts to the motor and when I plug my charger in it charges both batteries till full so don't know where the jumpers are everything works and that is good enough for me..lol
    1990 374V Ranger Still kickin' bass after all these years

  11. Member
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    #71
    The jumper is in the charging plug. It just connects the two positives together and the two negatives together. This is different than the jumper in the TM plug which combines one positive and one negative in series to get your 24V.

  12. New England Forum Moderator twitch's Avatar
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    #72
    Thanks for everyones imput and just glad it all works for me
    1990 374V Ranger Still kickin' bass after all these years

  13. Member
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    #73
    Just curious Twitch...
    When you say you "changed the end of the plug", does that mean you bought a new replacement plug?
    What brand of charging plug and what model # did you buy? Inquiry minds want to know.
    And do you use 2 separate plugs - 1 for trolling & 1 for charging?

    I'm already committed and bought a Marinco - 2 plug system.
    But I'm thinking of some other poor guy who's at wit's end, trying to figure out which path to take !

  14. New England Forum Moderator twitch's Avatar
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    #74
    I don't know who exactly makes my plug but as long as I have known, they have been called Ranger plugs...lol I have a black one on the trolling motor and a red one on my charger. It is a 4 prong plug
    1990 374V Ranger Still kickin' bass after all these years

  15. Member
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    #75
    Quote Originally Posted by PaulAlford View Post
    I have a 1986 Javelin with a Trolling Motor Control Panel in the bow with a Charging/Trolling lever. The foot pedal has a 3 prong like a dryer to the control panel. Yes, this is an OLD OMC Cobra trolling motor but it still works fine and I dont fish that much so I want to make it work. There are 2 reds and 2 blacks running from the bow to the back battery trays so I know 1 red and 1 black for each battery .... but does it matter which wires? Second question... HOW do I charge these at the same time with 1 charger/maintainer or can I ?

    Battery Trays2.jpg ControlPanelBow.jpg TrollingMotor2.jpg
    Not sure if you got an answer, havn't read all the answers below and have been off the boards. The old style system you have is before built in battery chargers. You have a pair, red and black, going to each battery and yes it makes a difference. Inside the plug you have a place for three connections and a jumper that goes across two connections. The charge run switch is used to parallel the batteries or series them. When paralleled, another plug connected to the charger would charge both batteries at the same time. On the plug side you will have a ground, a 24v wire and a 12v wire. The reason it makes a difference where they are connected is because a ground and a hot from two different batteries connect via the plug making the 24V. If you get them wrong, it will be a direct short. on the wires, they should be labeled as battery 1 and battery 2.
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  16. Member
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    #76
    Tiver
    did you receive a response to your post?
    I am going through the same scenario with a 2002 Tracker 18TX. sorry if i have overlooked the response.
    Thanks

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