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  1. #1
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    Crack in block repair?

    I discovered yesterday that my F150 has a small Crack in the block roughly a 1/2" long, it's right below the top spark plug and runs down to the curve in the annode? (At least I think that's what it is). Question is what would be a good repair, could it be tig welded and hold or do I just cut my losses and trade it in on a new boat (really don't want to since mines nearly paid off) but i really dont have 5 grand to spend on a replacement. Any info is appreciated!
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    #2
    John,

    How did you discover the crack? Running issues? I'm assuming you meant crack in the head?
    Last edited by ken1okie; 02-24-2017 at 04:15 PM.
    2007 Skeeter 21i 300HDPI

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    #3
    Yeah the head. I noticed it after impellar change while running it with muffler on in the driveway. No issues last time I had it out

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    #4
    Welding the head would be sketchy at best. I think your looking at a head replacement.
    2007 Skeeter 21i 300HDPI

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    #5
    Any clue what could cause this? No overheat of the motor that i'm aware of, and hate to replace the head if there is something else that caused it?

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    #6
    To my eye it doesn't look very crack-ish, maybe a surface defect where the paint has come off? I'm sure you have a better handle on it that me, being able to see it first hand. I would think it would be worth having a trust worthy Yamaha wrench take a first-person look at it, get their opinion of what it is.
    Kevin | 2000 Champion 19​1 | 2000 Yamaha OX66 200hp

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    #7
    I pulled the anode off yesterday and verified that it is cracked on that housing. When i was using the water flush attachment on the engine is when i discovered it, the motor ran for probably 10-15 minutes and i would guess it leaked maybe a tablespoon of water at most. I am thinking about trying to fix it before i break down and buy a new head, if it can't be TIG welded i may grind it out some and try JB weld, probably wont hold forever but if it gets me through a season or 2 i would be happy. I am thinking that with as little of water that is was leaking if i just keep an eye on it after every trip i hopefully wont end up broke down in the middle of a lake, as if it does start leaking i think i could make it back to the ramp without overheating? Any clue what typ of water pressure would be in the are of the crack? I'm guessing not much since the leak is a dribble and not a spray coming out? Thanks

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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Johnchinn85 View Post
    I pulled the anode off yesterday and verified that it is cracked on that housing. When i was using the water flush attachment on the engine is when i discovered it, the motor ran for probably 10-15 minutes and i would guess it leaked maybe a tablespoon of water at most. I am thinking about trying to fix it before i break down and buy a new head, if it can't be TIG welded i may grind it out some and try JB weld, probably wont hold forever but if it gets me through a season or 2 i would be happy. I am thinking that with as little of water that is was leaking if i just keep an eye on it after every trip i hopefully wont end up broke down in the middle of a lake, as if it does start leaking i think i could make it back to the ramp without overheating? Any clue what typ of water pressure would be in the are of the crack? I'm guessing not much since the leak is a dribble and not a spray coming out? Thanks
    jb weld would probably work for short-term, but you're risking the whole motor by not getting that leak taken care of. the structural integrity of the head is gone, and the crack could rupture more to where you ruin the whole thing.
    2017 Xpress H20B
    115 Yamaha SHO

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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by The gurg View Post
    jb weld would probably work for short-term, but you're risking the whole motor by not getting that leak taken care of. the structural integrity of the head is gone, and the crack could rupture more to where you ruin the whole thing.
    I agree, just looked up the parts on boats.net and looks like for the new head and gasket you are in for $900 to $1000. I know it ain't cheap but if you can afford it and are mechanical I would get a shop manual, order the parts, and replace the head yourself and know that it is fixed right and not band aided.

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    #10
    Check ebay. Lot's of heads available for my mid 2000's HPDI

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    #11
    u tube while back, maybe too hard to do on yours tight space, but was drilling holes in line of crack , using a threader , the allen head short set screws, then grinding the tops flush with block..