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  1. #1
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    2000 Tracker Pro Team 165

    Specs:
    2000 Tracker Pro Team 165
    1996 Force 40ELPT 2 Stroke
    Motor Guide Pro Series 43# Thrust

    I got this boat about a year ago and have been mostly reading up here before I really dive into the project. My father-in-law kept this outdoors/uncovered on Toledo Bend for the last 10 years. He decided to sell his lakehouse and since he has a number of other boats (and nowhere to keep this Tracker), he decided to give it to me for FREE. It's not exactly what I had in mind for my first boat, but I couldn't say no to a freebie.

    When I went to pick up the boat, it was completely full of leaves, debris, and was sopping wet. Every square inch of carpet was covered in moss and it was infested with bugs, mice, and a possum. It had it's own ecosystem within the hull. The tires were flat and off the 6" rims (pretty sure these weren't meant for highway speeds). The 3-hour drive home helped clear the leaves. When I got it home, I spent half a day with a shopvac and a scraper getting all the moss off. I really wish I would have taken a real before picture with all the moss, but I didn't. Instead, here's what I'll call the before pic:




    The carpet and seat upholstery is all destroyed from 20 years in the elements. I've fished this boat before and knew going in that the 1996 Force 40 motor was hard to turn over, but would run OK once it was started. The hull is solid and doesn't leak. There are some electrical issues caused by some Jerry rigging attempts, but otherwise the boat works and I've caught fish on it - even if it's ugly.

    I was able to get it started with the help of a little fuel/oil mix sprayed into the carb. The motor would start, but died quickly if I didn't open the throttle a bit. I cleaned the carb and tried again - same result. I bought a fuel pump kit, cleaned the pump, and again the motor wouldn't run on it's own for more than 10-20 seconds. I was about to start replacing lines when I found a much bigger problem: the water tube that runs from the pump in the lower unit all the way to the bottom of the power head was completely loose. The parts diagram shows that this tube is supposed to be bolted to the bottom of the exhaust plate with a plastic coupler/clamp (Part #3 below).



    This clamp is the first example of why Force motors have the reputation they have. This coupler is made of plastic and is literally bolted to one of the hottest point on the engine - the exhaust tube. That clamp had melted and got flushed out the water/exhaust exit at some point long ago. The bolts that held the clamp were still in place on the bottom of the exhaust plate. There isn't really a telltale/pisser on this Force motor, but you can see water sort of spurt out of the exhaust on the back of the engine. Fortunately, it doesn't appear that the motor ever got overheated. It was really only used for trolling around the creeks where our family's lake house is. I should have run a compression test prior to pulling the powerhead a few weekends ago to make sure it doesn't have blow gaskets. Lesson learned. Once I get the parts I need, I'll be checking compression before I try to run the engine.

    My immediate plans/projects:
    -Pull powerhead & identify water tube problem (done)
    -Clean engine/housing/cowls (done)
    -Extract broken bolt from adaptor plate (in progress, I've broken a drill bit and an extractor already...beginning to lose hope on this and may have to take it to a machine shop)
    -Remove interior: seats, carpet, console, decking, and trim panels (done)
    -Inspect foam integrity (done)
    -Clean and degrease everything. I'm OK with ugly, but I like my stuff to be clean and functional (in progress).
    -Replace floor/deck with 3/4" marine plywood sealed with resin
    -Extend front deck to console to maximize storage. I'm going to completely redesign the front deck hatches so the rod locker is in the middle instead of on the side and will fit longer rods. I'll also add 2 storage lockers on each side of the new rod locker in the middle.
    -Replace carpet: 20oz gunmetal grey
    -Replace seats
    -Reinforce/cover console with fiberglass and redesign gauge area to fit either a 5" or 7" Humminbird Helix
    -Spray gunnels and console with truck bed liner
    -Polish hull
    -Build custom front deck panel and add trim switch/wiring for networked Helix unit.
    -Replace fuse panel, switches, and wiring at console (a lot of this stuff had been cut out, but Tracker customer service sent me wiring diagrams)

    Here's a few more pics of my progress so far. I have a long road ahead of me...



    I was surprised at how simple outboards are. This is the first time I've ever done this and it was really simple - especially with the help of this forum.


    Carpet is shot:


    The sprayed foam from tracker appears to have been formed in trash bags, then sliced into chunks so it would fit under the deck. The creases in the foam still have small shreds of the bags they were formed in. It seems like they could have sprayed it directly under the deck and it would have formed a much better mold of the space. It's like Tracker doesn't understands how expandable foam works...


    17 years of 2-cycle mix, dirt, grime, pine needles, leaves, insect nests, and rodent bedding...but nothing some degreaser and elbow grease can't handle:


    Much better. Couldn't even decipher the red plate before.


    When I drained the tank, it poured out some pretty cloudy fuel. I tried to siphon out all the fuel months ago when I was trying to get the engine running, but I couldn't tell if I had gotten it all due to how filthy the tank was. It's clear to me now that the starting/idling issues are fuel related. I also pulled the sending unit and the float wasn't attached. The circlip had fallen off and the float was rolling around inside the tank. I managed to pull it out, but I think the float could have also contributed to the fuel supply issues by blocking the intake. I reassembled it and secured the float so it won't fall off easily again. It would be nice if the unit is still good and the gas gauge will work.

    I've finished removing all flooring/trim panels and have stripped the carpet. I've also pulled the livewell/plumbing. Right now, I'm getting things cleaned up and sorting out what other issues need to be addressed. I have the engine parts on order, so that will be another week before I get back to work on it. Until those parts come in, I have a lot of cleaning to do. Also need to strip the old glue off the aluminum panels - I'm thinking of using my grinder with a rough pad attachment. Just need to make sure it isn't too abrasive. I may try some sort of stripper if there's too much scuffing. idk if it's really that big of a deal.

    I have a lot on my plate between work, a 4 year old and 6 month old, and other countless obligations. So this will be a slow-going, weekend-warrior type project. Can't wait to get this thing back on the water!
    Last edited by sokmace; 04-08-2017 at 11:34 PM.

  2. Member
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    #2
    That is a lot of work for sure, bit personally i like projects like this. You got the boat for free so you shouldn't worry about putting some money in it. I like the idea of the center rod locker, wish my 04 had one. Keep us updated with pics.

  3. Member
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    #3
    You can't beat free. You may also want to look at the marine vinyl flooring that some of the new trackers come with as a possible alternative to carpet.
    In search of a double digit MONSTER!!!

  4. Member
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    #4
    It's been 3 weeks...I suppose it's time for an update here. I've been travelling for work a lot, so I haven't been able to get as much done as I'd like. I've spent what little free time I've had cleaning up the boat. The splash well area was coated with 2-cycle mix and grime, so all of that is now cleaned up well and I should be ready to reassemble the fuel tank/lines shortly. I have the fuel filler/vent/feed hoses on order, along with new SS hose clamps. Now that I'm getting closer to reassembly, I'm beginning to think about the redesign of the front deck. I could only fit 6' rods in the stock locker, and that won't do since most of my rods are 6'6"-7'. Here's a rough look at what my plans are:



    First, the gunnels and trolling motor area at the box are all raw aluminum. I really like the painted look of the newer pro teams, so I'm planning on painting the top surface black. There's also some horizontal aluminum surfaces at the stern around the splashwell/motor. I've heard that spraying aluminum can be tough, but have done some reading and it looks like it can be done. I plan on doing a lot of surface prep/cleaning/scuffing, cleaning with acetone, spraying self-etching primer, and then finishing with color. I'm still undecided, but I may go with a truckbed liner finish from Rustoleum.

    The area in blue will be the new front deck. I was initially thinking about ending at the back side of the console, but I'll really need to make it even with the front of the console to fit 7' rods. Based on my measurements, the new center rod locker should be 7'4", which I think is sufficient. The new rod locker will be in the center (See the "RL") and will be hinged a few inches behind the front seat post. Although the deck will extend all the way through the console, I plan on leaving openings under the deck for leg room. So it will be open under the console, and then there will be a space for the passenger's feet as well. The existing rod box on the passenger side will be expanded to be one large storage locker. I'll put another one in front of the console, too. Ultimately, the front deck will be very similar to the new PT 195's, except the side lockers are moved forward a bit and the deck will be flush with the other side of the console:



    I mentioned the new deck first because I'm excited to get things put together the way I want them. However, the reality is that I'm still getting past one hurdle on the motor. I broke a bolt that connects the adapter plate to the lower leg when I was disassembling the motor. Here's the bolt in question, circled in red:



    This is the only bolt that is between just the adapter plate and the lower leg. With the motor back on, there are 6 big bolts that sandwich the adapter plate between the motor and the lower leg.

    View of the broken bolt stuck in the Lower leg (just above the 3 holes on the right side):



    I'm having a tough time getting that bolt out. I've tried soaking in PB blaster for over a week. I've tried torching it, letting it cool, torching, repeat. I started drilling from both sides and snapped extractors off in both directions. I cannot get this thing to budge. I've since put a cutoff tool to the part of the bolt that stuck out from the lower leg and ground it down even with the lower leg. If anyone has anymore advice about how to extract this bolt, I'm all ears. I'm at the point now where I'm thinking about leaving it and using a lot of high-heat RTV sealer on this mating surface to hedge off any exhaust/water leaks. I'm honestly not convinced a leak would hurt, though, since this is literally 1 inch above the port that spits out water/exhaust on the lower leg. I'd love some advice if anyone has done this before. I have all the new parts I needed to reassemble the motor, so this broken bolt is really putting a halt on reassembling the motor and getting it back on the boat.

    I knew this project would take a LOT of hours going in, so I'm happy to have access to another boat to fish on while this is underway. My daughter is 4 and has "caught" fish before on a dock - but really that meant I threw a line with catfish bait for her while she played, and then I'd call her over to reel it in once something bit it. But now, I can finally say she is really catching fish! We went out together on one of my father-in-law's other boats this past weekend and she was flipping a baby brush hog with her 36" Disney princess fishing pole and pulled this out from under a laydown!



    She was really excited for this one, and I have to say I'm really proud. When we got home, she pulled out one of my fishing magazines and started flipping through it for 30 minutes looking at pictures. I'd say she's hooked!

    I expect to have some time in the evenings and this weekend to continue working. I should have another update soon, unless my daughter comes begging to go fishing again...surely I can't say no to that!
    Last edited by sokmace; 03-15-2017 at 06:00 PM.
    A Work In Progress:
    2000 Tracker Pro Team 165
    1996 Force 40 2-Stroke
    Build Thread: http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=787416

  5. Member
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    #5
    I had a few quick hours to spend working on the boat this afternoon. I'm waiting on one more gasket to ship in from boats.net, should be here tomorrow. So I decided to begin working on stripping the old glue off the deck/panels. I tried a spray can of aircraft stripper and scraping, but I don't like waiting so long. So I bought a scuffing pad for my grinder ($15 Harbor Freight special!) and went to work:



    This thing works like a champ, and has lasted longer than I expected. I ran it for about 45 minutes and it's just now starting to wear down a little thin. I may be able to finish the job with this one, but have a spare if needed. Here's the progress:





    I also cut out some foam on the bow to make room for the new rod locker. I'm beginning to think that a locker for 7' rods may be too much for such a small boat. I'm going to continue with the plan for now, but I may end up a little short. In order to really have enough room, the rod locker will have to extend about 6" from the bench where the driver/passenger seats are. It will be a pretty close fit that it may be a little uncomfortable sitting in the driver's seat. I'll really be pinned in there. I'm ordering the carpet tonight. Once I get the floor and console reinstalled, I'll be able to get a better sense of fitment for the center rod locker. If it's not going to work out, I'm still moving the rod box to the center. I can at least go 6'6" in the middle, but I'm limited to 6' with the existing side locker. I'm going to have to cut through the wall where the front deck currently begins:



    I need to pick up a jig saw and metal blade so I can cut this panel out. I also need to swing by Home Depot to pick up a sheet of plywood, some aluminum angle for the framing, and a gallon of Welwood contact cement for the carpet. While the carpet is clamped/curing, I'll spray the paint down on the interior sides and top rail. That's it for today. Hopefully I can get a lot done tomorrow and add updates here again.
    A Work In Progress:
    2000 Tracker Pro Team 165
    1996 Force 40 2-Stroke
    Build Thread: http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=787416

  6. Member CastingCall's Avatar
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    #6
    Great rebuild thread! You're making real progress.
    Regarding the rod locker to fit 7' rods: If you have the overall length to fit the rod tips all the way up into the bow, consider using a couple large diameter irrigation pipes as rod tubes that extend absolutely as far up into the bow as possible. Cut holes in whatever bulkhead is in the way towards the bow and slide the pipes in the holes.
    I did something similar in my boat - the pipes (2" IIRC) allow the long rods to fit all the way to the tip of the bow without hanging up on any wiring or other hardware inside the bow.

  7. Member
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    #7
    CastingCall, I think you just solved my problem! That's actually an excellent idea, thanks!

    There's easily another 18" of usable space in front of where I figured the rod tips would have to stop. Right now, there's a lot of foam and some aluminum framing I'll have to cut through. Using the irrigation tubing would actually keep me from having to cut out a large section of the bulkhead, too! I've been a little worried about cutting the big hole I have drawn in sharpie in my last post because it seems like it provides a lot of structural support in the middle of the deck. If I were to simply cut out 6, 2" holes and put some thin-walled PVC in there, I could maintain more integrity in that bulkhead, extend the rods further into the bow, and keep everything from getting tangled.

    One question: do you think I can cut the holes through the aluminum bulkhead with a standard hole saw on my drill? It's pretty stout aluminum - I'd say maybe .100 - .125. Normal drill bits get through it pretty quick, so I suspect a 2" hole saw should do the job pretty well and keep the circle true.

    In hindsight, your tip is the obvious solution. I started this thread for this very reason - to memorialize my scattered thought process and get feedback on ways to improve the project. Thank you very much for the advice!
    A Work In Progress:
    2000 Tracker Pro Team 165
    1996 Force 40 2-Stroke
    Build Thread: http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=787416

  8. Member CastingCall's Avatar
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    #8
    One question: do you think I can cut the holes through the aluminum bulkhead with a standard hole saw on my drill? It's pretty stout aluminum - I'd say maybe .100 - .125. Normal drill bits get through it pretty quick, so I suspect a 2" hole saw should do the job pretty well and keep the circle true.
    Yes, just run it at a slow speed, steady pace. And use a cutting fluid to help keep teeth cool.

    I saw a way to flare the end of the poly or PVC pipe by heating it, and molding over a round closet rod hanger. Was a slick way to make a smooth flared end.

  9. Member
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    #9
    I like the idea of using the hole saw and PVC pipe. I was worried as well about weakening the bulkhead. How will the tubes be secured so as to not slip in and out or side to side? your project is looking good. Did you get your carpet?

  10. Member
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    #10
    Made a little progress this weekend. I got the motor back together for the most part. It's back on the boat, but I still need to get it wired back up and reinstall the fuel lines. I decided to leave the broken bolt off and used a bead of copper RTV sealant to help keep everything sealed up tight. I feel comfortable with the 6 powerhead bolts keeping it from leaking exhaust or water. Even if it does end up leaking at some point, it would be outside the cowling, so it shouldn't cause any issues feeding back into the carb. Time will tell.

    I'm in the Houston area, and the Bassmaster Classic rolled through town last weekend. I took the family out to the expo and spent the day there. I stopped by the Starbrite booth and picked up a bottle of their aluminum cleaner/restorer for $10 (normally $17.99):



    I've heard a lot of good things on here about Starbrite products. This stuff definitely lives up to the hype. It's really simple to use and peeled off a 20-year old water line with a single wipe. Just spray it on, wait 3 minutes, wipe it with a scotch brite pad, and spray it down with water.

    Before:



    3 minutes after spraying:



    After:



    I cleaned all the sides + the bow as far as I could reach. Total process took me less than 10 minutes. The 64oz bottle should last me through another 4 cleanings. I only used about 10oz. As a bonus, Starbrite also does a great job of killing grass you may have growing up in the joints in your driveway! That grass you see in the after pick turned brown by the next morning!

    Now that the motor is back on, I can begin building the deck extension and new lockers. I picked up some aluminum angle from Lowe's. I got 2 lengths of 1.5" x 8' (1/16th thickness). I was a little concerned with the thickness at first (seems a little flimsy), but it's the same thickness as what Tracker uses for the OEM framing. I think it will be solid as a rock once I get everything riveted together. I may end up buying one more for additional reinforcement/bracing. Carpet has been ordered and should be here in a day or two. I'll pick up a few sheets of 3/4" marine ply this week.

    Here are my plans for the next few weeks:
    -Reinstall livewell pump. Buy/install new bilge pump, replace plumbing & hose clamps. Replace through hull fitting and add screen for pickup
    -Reinstall fuel cell and replace fuel lines. Replace through-hull fitting that goes through the splashwell (had to chop this off as the old hose would not come off)
    -Paint interior gunwale and top rails.
    -Apply carpet to interior gunwale panels and install on boat.
    -Cut plywood for new floor, apply carpet, install 2 drain holes, and screw it into the boat.
    -Install aluminum angle framing for deck extension.
    -Configure rod locker: cut holes in bulkheads for rods and install 2" PVC running into the bow (I'm hoping to have room for 8 rods up to 7')
    -Carpet and Install front deck: need to make cuts for new storage locker hatches, seat post, and recessed trolling motor pedal.
    -Carpet rear deck and hatch lids and reinstall
    -Paint and install console
    -Button up wiring and see what's missing and needs to be fixed.
    A Work In Progress:
    2000 Tracker Pro Team 165
    1996 Force 40 2-Stroke
    Build Thread: http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=787416

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    #11
    If my life were a book, this chapter would be titled "The Grind"



    I'm so happy to be finished with the old glue. I thought it would never end. Ready for carpet.

    I decided to knock out a few things while I'm waiting for all the stuff I've ordered to arrive. What started as a core sample to determine the state of the foam ultimately turned into a complete removal of all foam under the floor and front deck:



    I filled 2 large bags, each weighing probably ~70lbs.



    I'm really glad I pulled the foam. It always looked a little dirty on top, but seemed firm enough. I assumed it was fine underneath. But when I pulled it out, there was a thick layer of dried mud on the hull and the bottom side of the foam was black, flaky, and was holding water. There's no path for water to flow to the stern with this foam in there. The expanding foam fills every imaginable path for water and completely blocks the flow to the bilge area. I'm going to mine out a few channels under the bench and splashwell area using a really long drill bit I have laying around.

    The foam under the front deck seemed to be just fine since it sits higher up and water settles under the floor. I only removed the foam up front to make room for the new center rod locker and storage hatches on each side. With the foam out now I can start installing the PVC rod guides. I'm going to install plywood as floors for the side hatches. This should level it out and make the box look square as opposed to the slope of the hull.



    I'm going to replace with closed cell foam insulation sheets from Lowe's. I'm really not all that concerned with emergency buoyancy like it was meant to be, but I do think the foam insulates noise on the deck a bit. Using sheets will allow me to leave the channels free for proper flow to the bilge.



    Question for you PT owners: has anyone ever replaced the material on the bow panel where the trolling motor is mounted? Mine as horribly cracked and sunbaked, so I scraped a lot of it off and then hit the tough spots with the scuff pad on my grinder. I'm going to paint this area, but I really like the finished look of the textured padding I see on some newer boats. If anyone has a source for some sort of padding here, I'd love to hear it. I'd really like to find a 1/4" foam pad that can be glued down with contact cement.
    A Work In Progress:
    2000 Tracker Pro Team 165
    1996 Force 40 2-Stroke
    Build Thread: http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=787416

  12. Member eliteangler's Avatar
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    #12
    Here is some stuff I ordered for my fiberglass fender step areas:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Sam Dunaway
    2005 Triton TR-21X
    Powered by Suzuki 250SS

  13. Member CastingCall's Avatar
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    #13

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    #14
    This giant roll of carpet showed up yesterday



    But before I start carpeting, I needed to get the rails painted. I went with Duplicolor Gunmetal Metallic







    These pictures don't really do it much justice, and these were taken before applying the clear coat. I sprayed the rails, gunwales, console, rigging area, and the splashwell. I've decided I like this color so much that I'm going to strip the decals off the hull and paint the sides and transom. I may wind up replacing the Tracker decals after paint with something that matches this color, but I definitely want the color to be more prominent. It has a beautiful flake and looked great in the sun



    The paint really cleaned up the console really well. Hopefully I'll be able to cover up the cracks with a nice graph soon

    As part of the prep for paint, I washed everything down with dish soap and rinsed really well before wiping clean with acetone. I jacked up the front end of the trailer on blocks and intentionally sprayed a lot of water while I was rinsing to see how everything flowed to the back after removing all the foam yesterday. There were a few spots where it was somewhat slow, but it's much better now.

    I stopped at Lowe's this morning and grabbed a sheet of 1/2" for the floor, 3/4" for the front deck, 1" foam sheets (the blue stuff), welwoods contact cement, and a box of 100 razors. Once I get everything framed out, I'll likely grab another sheet or two and try to pack in as much as possible. I'm also thinking about turning the space directly in front of the console into a built-in cooler lined with aluminum and insulated really well all around the box.

    With that said, I think I've officially hit the point in a project where one starts getting into the "well, while I'm at it..." mindset. It's really easy to think that way when you've got something stripped down and it's a blank canvas. I really need to buckle down, start carpeting, and get this thing on the water before my wife loses her mind! She's been really supportive, but I'm pretty sure I've far surpassed the allowable hours she expected to give me for the restoration. The sooner I can take her fishing on it, the better. Then it will all be worth it.
    A Work In Progress:
    2000 Tracker Pro Team 165
    1996 Force 40 2-Stroke
    Build Thread: http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=787416

  15. Member CastingCall's Avatar
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    #15
    Nice work!!
    Good choice on the Duplicolor gunmetal - painted so many things with it, it's a great color!

    A few observations:
    • Make sure you seal the plywood with epoxy (and a layer of fiberglass cloth wouldn't hurt) before installing , especially edges.
    • Assume you are going to cut foam sheets to fit, then adhere them to the underside of the floors? This would allow an air and water drain channel between foam and hull bottom, so incidental water should never touch foam. Not sure if there would be more hull noise doing that though, since the foam isn't directly on the bottom...?
    • Would be good if you could epoxy coat all the edges of the foam, as added water prevention measure.
    • For the dash, you could cut a sheet of material (aluminum, Starboard, Lexan) for that upper U-shaped portion to cover the cracked area and stiffen it up. Add the three existing gauge holes, then Hydrodip it, or wrap it in carbon fiber vinyl. Then when you get one (or two) large screens, it would be easy to replace that dash panel with a new one specifically for the mounting holes needed for the units.

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    #16
    It really is a great color. The metallic flake was really nice in the evening sun yesterday. I'm using a light clear coat and not buffing it to a shine. So it has a bit of a matte/flat look and I'm really happy.

    About the plywood...after some research I'm going to return what I bought. I picked up treated wood before I read all the posts about decking material. I was convinced hat the treated wood isn't a good match for an aluminum hull. I'll get some void less plywood and glass it like you recommend.

    The insulation will be cut to fit between the stringers and stacked up to the underside of the floor. Due to the shape of the hull, there will be channels that run below the foam and allow water to get to the bilge. This way will keep the foam about 1.5-2" off the bottom, so I don't think it will be sitting in water unless I'm really full. I'm actually thinking about wrapping the sheets in shrink wrap as a precaution.

    Using a panel on the console has kind of been my thought too. I have a decent supply of 1/16" aluminum from parts I'm removing like the old rod locker "trough". May cut a trim panel from that and wrap it like you mentioned. The cracks are only on the surface, but the panel would definitely help keep the cracks from spreading.
    A Work In Progress:
    2000 Tracker Pro Team 165
    1996 Force 40 2-Stroke
    Build Thread: http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=787416

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    #17
    Looking great so. Two thumbs up.

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    #18
    Ya, so the carpet is going to take forever. I did the driver's seat bench last night and it took me an hour and a half.





    I feel like it looks pretty good for the first piece I've ever carpeted, but it takes so long. A brand new razor only made 2 cuts before it started shredding the edges. On this piece, where the carpet wraps around a sharp edge, the carpet sort of parts away and you can see straight through to the backing. Anyone know of a way to avoid this? Am I stretching it too tight? I really didn't tug on it at all - just wrapped it around and applied pressure so the contact cement could bond. I'm not so concerned on this piece because it'll be hidden for the most part once the boat's back together. But I'd like to put a stop to it before I get to the more prominent pieces. Here's what I'm talking about:



    This only happened on the edge where the carpet has to make a 180 degree turn, which won't be visible for the most part. The 90 degree angles look good, and those are the one's that you'll be able to see. I'm just a little concerned that this will weaken the material and start coming undone sooner.
    A Work In Progress:
    2000 Tracker Pro Team 165
    1996 Force 40 2-Stroke
    Build Thread: http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=787416

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    #19
    I exchanged the treated plywood for untreated and got the floor and part of the deck cut and sealed with epoxy resin today:



    All the black spots are those little love bugs flyin around right now. They swarmed me. Guess they like the scent of resin because they flocked to it. I decided to follow CastingCall's advice about wrapping the floor with a layer of fiberglass. The floor ply is only 1/2". Between it being the lowest point where water will collect and me being a big guy, I felt like it could use a little extra protection. In the above pic, I'd only glassed half at the time and then realized I didn't have a 3" hole saw for the drains. Quick run to Lowe's, cut the drain holes, and glassed the other half.

    After fitting the front deck on the boat, I measured out the length/width of my Motorguide TM pedal and figured out where I wanted it. I'll have to put it further back than I'd like, though, because there's a bulkhead that runs the width of the boat right at the front lip of the hole I cut out. It supports the deck, so I didn't want to cut through it. This will place the pedestal mount a little further back too. There will be another 3' of deck behind this, so it should be plenty of room



    While the deck and floor are curing, I went ahead and cut up the 1" foam board and put it in the space under the floor. One 4x8 sheet filled this area in just fine. The 1" was just the right thickness for the middle where it's deepest, and it bends without breaking to fit the contour of the hull. In the pic below, between each stringer there are 2 long sheets that span the width of the hull, and then some small pieces in the middle. I'm going to pick up 2 more sheets to fit around the boxes under the deck.



    Since I'll be installing the deck soon, I needed to get the rod guide tubes put in as well. Here's a pic of the loose fit:



    I had to leave space in the top/center for the recessed trolling motor tray I'll be fabbing up soon. By using the tubes as guides and getting the angles right, I was able to get much longer lengths than I originally expected. The bottom left and right tubes are the shortest of all them and will be able to fit 6'6" rods. The 5 that are kind of in the middle can fit 7" rods. The 2 at the top can fit up to 8' rods. These lengths are based on extending the deck 36" back to the console and have a lot of extra wiggle room to get rods in/out. I'm going to play around with it and see if I really need to go back that far.



    One thing that was really helpful in gaining every possible inch here was cutting the PVC ends to fit the contours of the hull and stringers. Doing it this way gives about 2" extra inches on each tube.

    I'm going to give the resin a few days to cure before I carpet the deck and floor. I need to carpet the bulkhead before I can install the floor anyway (the bulkhead where the rods will go into the PVC). I'm trying to decide how I want to finish the rod guides. I'll wrap the carpet and through the hole a bit, but that may be all. I found some things online that resemble a whisker biscuit for a bow that I thought about using to cover the PVC guides, but at this point that would be purely cosmetic.

    Now that the cleaning/scraping/grinding days are mostly through, I've got to say I'm really enjoying myself now. It's pretty cool to get to make a little progress and start to see the vision come together
    Last edited by sokmace; 04-13-2017 at 08:56 AM.
    A Work In Progress:
    2000 Tracker Pro Team 165
    1996 Force 40 2-Stroke
    Build Thread: http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=787416

  20. Member CastingCall's Avatar
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    May 2012
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    #20
    Great job!
    You can heat the pvc pipe with a heat gun and give them a slight, gradual bend if needed. Looks like you could do that with the center one in the last pic, to clear the aluminum beam and gain a bit more pipe length.

    To finish the ends of the pipes, heat them with a heat gun or torch, and push it onto the pipe on top of a tapered-neck beer bottle. This will get a flare started. Then reheat and push down on a flat surface (metal table or glass pan).

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