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  1. #1
    Member Meadows's Avatar
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    Warning beep while cranking

    Serial #1B903884.

    I keep getting a single beep while cranking my motor (after the initial beep when turning the key). I've got a new Interstate AGM battery, cleaned all terminals, and have the terminal connector that Don recommends.

    The past couple times I've gone out I've had my motor completely turn off while idling a couple times, almost like the kill switch was pulled. But all my electronics, livewells, etc. are still running.

    Is is this a low voltage problem?
    2022 Skeeter ZXR20
    Yamaha 250 SHO

  2. Member
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    #2
    Most likely. Post the specifications of your current battery.



  3. #3
    Your beeps are a voltage issue, as Savage believes. Had the same issue with dealer installed battery. These guys are goodso follow the stickies and advice and you'll be good to go

  4. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #4
    Load test that battery and get the actual CCA rating it's providing. What's the rating listed on the "sticker"?


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
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  5. Member
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    #5
    My 2014 does the same thing except it's only on the initial 1st start up. I changed out cranking battery last year and it fixed it but it started again several weeks ago. I'm wondering if I have a charger problem. Using Deka 31 AGM.

  6. Member
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    #6
    Something to try: when you launch, do NOT turn on all the electronics. Don't turn on ANY. Launch, crank and see what happens. I have seen this multiple times on multiple boats. The battery was usually "on the edge" and adding a couple of depth finders (or even 3 to 4) produces a significant current draw. Some today draw 5 amps. 4 of 'em is 20 amps. That's a lot of competition for the engine's cranking current requirement. If that solves it, you need to find another battery.

    Do not particularly understand why, but I just fixed this problem on my boat this month. Occasionally got a beep only when cranking the first time of the day. And would die as though the kill switch was pulled, a couple of times. Then nothing for the rest of the day. Whether the first crank of the day is pulling more amps due to cold oil in the motor, or what, I don't know. But the new battery fixed it. My boat has a 6 amp trickle charger for the main battery and I have verified that it is working as it is supposed to.

    You would think that once cranked, the alternator would be enough to run the motor (as it will with a car). But I have seen a number of auto alternator failures where a voltmeter says they are outputting the correct 14.5 volts, but practically no amperage. Don't have headlights on my boat I can turn on to see that they can out-draw the alternator and produce a voltage drop. In any case, a REALLY good cranking battery solved mine, at least for a month going 3-4 times a week.

    Z521c: How often are you taking the boat out? If it is a couple of times a week, you might want to check the alternator as well as your charger. The motor has to rotate 3 revolutions according to Don, before it cranks. That is a LOAD. Auto's don't have a compressor to cause that slow starting and high initial battery drain.
    2008 Bass Cat Pantera Classic
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  7. Member
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    #7
    Both Interstate marine AGMs (34M & 31M) are advertised as having 800CCA.
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    Phil
    '09 Hewescraft ProV
    '09 150 Optimax


  8. Member
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    #8
    Unfortunately if you are one of the ones with 4 12" depth finders all running when you try to crank, a battery that can deliver 800 CCA is going to be a bit short of that when the opti demands it since 15-20 amps are being sucked by the electronics. And that doesn't count any of the other stuff using power, such as the dash, network, GPS pucks, etc. I remember when we started to see 8 and even 6 gauge wiring for TMs. I'll bet we are not long from seeing that to run power to the dash and bow for electronics. :)
    2008 Bass Cat Pantera Classic
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  9. Member Meadows's Avatar
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    #9
    I'll test the load of my current battery. But like I said, it's a year old Interstate 31 AGM. I don't mind replacing the battery if need be to fix the the problem. I just wanted to make sure it's not a failure in the power cable coming from the motor itself.
    2022 Skeeter ZXR20
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    #10
    Mine has no electronics on and is just on the initial start-up. Happened last 3 trips. Had same issue last year and replaced all batteries that were low. That was March and no problems until now. Boat did sit several months over Winter but remained on charge.

  11. Member
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Z521C View Post
    My 2014 does the same thing except it's only on the initial 1st start up. I changed out cranking battery last year and it fixed it but it started again several weeks ago. I'm wondering if I have a charger problem. Using Deka 31 AGM.
    The Deka 8A31DTM is rated 800CCA. Group size is not an indicator for capacity, it simply addresses case size and terminal configuration. There are several gp31 batteries that just meet engine only minimum CCA specs (Deka and Interstate happen to both fall in this category).

    If your battery connections and terminals are proper, clean, tight, and charger checks out, it's possible your battery has lost some capacity.

    JMHO, best practice in buying a start battery for an Optimax is to select one based on advertised capacity rather than case size and choose one with at least 950CCA.
    _______

    Phil
    '09 Hewescraft ProV
    '09 150 Optimax


  12. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #12
    +1


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
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