Rebuilding a 2006 Yamaha VZ225 TLR(HPDI): write up and photos

[reellittlephish]

To see the history I'll direct you to an older thread: http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=727991

Today my friend Doug came over and we began the dis-assembly.

What happened Feb. 15

removed intake silencer
removed throttle linkage
removed throttle body assembly and fuel separator tank and electric fuel pump
removed secondary canister fuel filter
Reduced fuel pressure
disconnected medium pressure fuel line at the head: need high pressure fuel line clamp
Removed oil pump assembly and intake manifold together
Removed reed mounting assembly
Drained oil reservoir
Destroyed drain cap: order a replacement
Oil linkages disconnected throttle valve primary linkage disconnected
oil tank emergency switch disconnected
May need new oil filter in oil tank
throttle position sensor coupler disconnected
Electric fuel pump coupler disconnected
Removed stator coil cover
Removed starter motor
removed 2 cooling hoses off rectifier regulator
Working on disconcerting rectifier regulatorleds
All hose connections painted to match where they go
All wire connections color coded
bolt and fastener assemblies, labeled and zip bagged then put with the big assemblies
Where possible bolts left on the block
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another half day disassembly and then wait till next week for a couple ordered tools before lifting the engine
When I'm not so tired I'll post photos with labels

For now posting the most important photo

[reellittlephish]

Feb 16:



I was able to gently work the belt off without changing any tension.
Removed high pressure pump assembly with pulley and fuel rails attached
opened Allen-head bleed point on top of starboard rail to relieve pressure; need to replace o ring
Disconnected wiring harness to ECM: watch out to unbolt a small bracket which hold the connectors
Removed ECM
numbered the injector connectors and injectors
removed all grounding wires and market them
found aluminum in the intake/reed valve area on #2 cylinder
Now awaiting flywheel puller tool and probably waiting out 2 storms arriving Friday
Ready to lift the engine
Intend to use a motor stand so I can rotate the block

Broke an injector holder club: need to order replacement
After all the bolts were removed had to gently pry the fuel rails away from the block
#2 #4 #6 injectors came away in the fuel rail.
#1 #3 #5 showed some presence of water

[reellittlephish]

Photos:

[reellittlephish]

Photos:



Can someone tell me about this 9mm connection rod bolt? My friend recommended I order a Sunex socket. Sunex to me looked like not the correct configuration. I looked on Amazon.

As you can see I have aluminum and small bits of darker metal...ring? or piston..not sure. Swiped about 3 times and got metal on each pass. All other cylinder ports were clean. We looked at pulling the head but there is one head bolt we can not get to till we lift the block. Waiting for flywheel holder tool now.

Bagged everything and put the assemblies into larger plastic bins.

[reellittlephish]

Photos:

[Rich Z]

Try a 5/16 deepwell 12 point socket on the rod bolts. Mark the rod end caps so you can put them back on the same rod with same orientation. You could rent a flyweel puller from an auto parts store.

[DaleHollar1]

Rich is right. It's a 12 point socket.

[javelin90]

Looking forward to pictures and posting progress on your rebuild.

[reellittlephish]

Looking forward to pictures and posting progress on your rebuild.

Flywheel and stator coil comes off this morning. Had 2 days of rain.

[reellittlephish]

Try a 5/16 deepwell 12 point socket on the rod bolts. Mark the rod end caps so you can put them back on the same rod with same orientation. You could rent a flyweel puller from an auto parts store.

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Monday Feb 20: while taking the last bits off the powerhead I tried a 9mm socket. Worked. I'll order a 12 pt Sunex from Amazon in next order. Thanks. The flywheel holder from Amazon worked well with a 24" section of 1/2" dia. black pipe for a cheater bar.

[reellittlephish]

Sunday Feb 19
Today was supposed to be easy.


The shop manual spec'd 24mm flywheel bolt. Well, I had that socket. But I get down to the flywheel shaft and find I need a 30mm socket. Off to Lowes for PB Blaster, 30mm socket, cheater pipe for the flywheel holder and some 8mm bolts for the puller. ½ breaker bar and the cheater on the flywheel holder got the flywheel loose. Came easy for over 100lbs. Torque. Had a factory paint seal on it.

Puller and flywheel holder worked without incident. Woodruff key was still in the crankshaft. Had to remove the tensioner pulley assembly to get the flywheel off the shaft.

4 Allen bolts holding plate secure the stator. Stator came off easily and leads to the rectifier regulator were already disconnected.



Monday Feb 20


Doug came over about 10:30 and we finished stripping the motor of outside components. I carefully removed the bottom-most part of the Stator assembly. 4 Phillips screws hold it on; I had to gently lever it up with a 5in1 putty knife, Oil tank came off. Several ground connections got marked and disconnected. Doug removed the rectifier assembly in one piece and laid it over the side of the cowling. Hose to the poppet relief valve came off. Water lines to the bottom of the block disconnected. Shift and throttle cables disconnected. Apron got disconnected and removed.

We began to remove the bolts holding the power-head to the case. Doug accidentally removed some bolts holding the cowling assembly. We didn't find this out till we began to lift the power-head. We thought we had all the bolts out but when we tried the lift it was obvious we'd missed something. Back to the manual and it was still not clear what fasteners were holding the power-head. Finally we agreed to try on the outside bolts along the engine side. I was skeptical but sure enough that was the solution. These were about 5” bolts. Once all 8 were removed we tried the lift again and after maybe 30 seconds applying a slight strain the power head released off the base. We had to disconnect the plastic shifting plate to complete the raise.

The way our Harbor Freight engine lift was set at ½ ton we did not have the height to clear the cowling. My solution was to use a 3 ton hydraulic jack and a 6” wood block under the front of the trailer to lower the stern. Worked fine. Neighbor across the street came over and added a bit of additional manpower to wrestle the power-head clear. The 2 locating pins were in the power-head and later one came out. We labeled and bagged it along with power-head bolts.


That done, Doug and I went back to Harbor Freight for the engine stand and my treat at our favorite pizza place. Bummer, it was closed on Monday's. A quick stop at Lowes for some 8mm x 1.25 x 60mm mounting bolts and fender washers for the engine stand and a back up fast food joint: grease and sugar.


Back at the scene of the crime, we discover the 60mm bolts are too short. So a call to Ace Hardware, they have 70mm and 75mm bolts, so another shopping run while Doug assembled the stand.



Now to get the power-head on the stand. This was not so simple. We mounted the stand plate to the bottom of the power-head with fender washers between the bolt and the sealing area of the power-head and then slid the tube into the stand's vertical assembly. Then we got to wrestle the power-head through 90° while lowering it to the deck, meanwhile not catching on the arms of the cherry picker lift. The two of us tried several approaches but it wasn't till the upstairs neighbor added some help the we succeeded.


I rolled the power-head into the front entryway, covered with a moving pad and blue tarp. Some oil is draining out of the intake ports. I'll let it continue to drain before bring the block inside. Meanwhile today a through cleaning of my work-space and re-organization of parts plastic storage crates. The snap lidded cheap crates trap the gas and oil fumes well plus keep contaminants and the curious cat out. I'm building a sawhorse mounted medium sized table surface with edges so I can disassemble outside if I need to.



Photos to follow.

[reellittlephish]

Thursday Feb 23


Yesterday afternoon I made a 30” x 72” rough table with raised edges to put parts and tools on.


This afternoon I went and turned the power-head. The gear driven oil pump, brass washer and grommet dropped out along with some scavenged oil. Never found the oil ring that is supposed to be there. Maybe it is on the external oil pump assembly. I removed the two fuel pumps and connecting hoses bolted to the power-head with Allen bolts.


The other day while removing the top cover I figured out where my water stain on the starboard head is coming from. The is a leak from a crack in the motor cover.

[reellittlephish]

Friday Feb 24


Pulled the heads today. On the port side I pulled the cylinder head cover. Loosening the head bolts required using the breaker bar to start them, then an impact wrench and socket. #2 Cylinder is quite damaged. I am almost certain I need to start looking for a replacement part. To my inexperienced eye looks like pre-detonation, ring breakage. There are two places on the cylinder wall showing slight pitting. I am hoping I can bore the cylinder on diameter over size. The rest of the cylinders still show crosshatching. #4 Cylinder has vertical dark streaks...I don't know what this is. #5 shows some carbon build up. Around the exhaust ports are some rough edges on the bottom of the port for #1, #3, #5. I don't know if this manufacturing or something to be concerned about.


My question is do I try to find a machine shop in Las Vegas to do the re bore. There are no marine machine shops here but a couple shops which do motorcycle performance work. Monday I'll contact my Toyota mechanic and Las Vegas Marine for recommendations. I could deliver the power-head to someplace in Lake Havasu or southern California

[reellittlephish]

Saturday Feb 25


Removed exhaust cover. Removed front thermostat cover Removed pump mounting bracket. Shift and Throttle linkage painted and removed. Began to remove and separate the crankcase. Realized I need to remove the crankshaft balance and housing behind it which has bolts into the crankcase. Going to try the cherry picker to set the motor on a table to pull the balance assembly. Found a gasket and don't know where it goes.

Sunday Feb 26


Rigged the motor so I could lay it on it's side to remove the large 36mm nut, balancer and seal housing. Then removed the crankcase. I found metal shards around the edge of the main bearing adjacent and rear of #2 cylinder. Numbered #2 connecting rod

[swampshark]

That gasket looks like it goes to one of the low pressure fuel pumps

[reellittlephish]

That gasket looks like it goes to one of the low pressure fuel pumps

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Thanks...I'll check. Didn't open those pumps. They came off assembled but that is about time in the process where the gasket showed up.

[Charles Prestridge]

The gasket will not go inside the low-pressure fuel pump.

If it is for one of the fuel pumps, it will be where they bolt to the block.

You will have one gasket for each pump. Some of the pumps may still have the gasket stuck on backside of pump or stuck on the block.

[Charlie206]

Agree, it's a lift pump to block gasket. The white spots appear to be where carbon released from the piston, leaving clean aluminum. Hard to tell in pics though.

[Rich Z]

More on the clean spots of the piston
Charlie is right. Under certain conditions when thicker chunks of carbon are stuck to the piston they can create hot spots and uneven heat distribution on the piston. These spots can glow and can cause pre ignition leading to piston failure. Most of the time these thicker carbon spots will get hotter then the rest of the piston and simply flake off. Some will disintegrate and some may get stuck in the ring. Rich injectors are not always good.

[reellittlephish]

More on the clean spots of the piston
Charlie is right. Under certain conditions when thicker chunks of carbon are stuck to the piston they can create hot spots and uneven heat distribution on the piston. These spots can glow and can cause pre ignition leading to piston failure. Most of the time these thicker carbon spots will get hotter then the rest of the piston and simply flake off. Some will disintegrate and some may get stuck in the ring. Rich injectors are not always good.

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I've been studying. This is the first 2 stroke rebuild in a long time. The last one I was over 35 years ago. Everything is off the cylinder block and it goes to the machine shop on Monday.


Sunday Feb 26


Rigged the motor so I could lay it on it's side to remove the large 36mm nut, balancer and seal housing. Then removed the crankcase. I found metal shards around the edge of the main bearing adjacent and rear of #2 cylinder. Numbered #2 connecting rod.


Tuesday Feb 28


Marked pistons for number and orientation. Market connecting rods for number and orientation. Removed pistons and connecting rods. 8 mm 12 pt socket required. Ended up getting a socket from Snap On. Removed one main bearing. Removed all remaining external attachments and senors from cylinder block. Seal rings are still in place. Had to easy out last screw...need metric replacement. Removed engine temperature sensor. Removed crank position sensor; 2 screws into a plate. Removed 4 or 5 short bolts which were ground lead connectors. Used a dial caliper to check diameter of one main bearing; was within spec. Use a feeler gauge to check rod end to crankshaft clearance: all were within spec. Removed the starboard and port stopper assemblies. Removed anode covers and left the anodes in place.



Wednesday March 1
bought some Muriatic acid.

Crankshaft Journal Diameter: 2.3219 – 3.3225” or 58.975 – 58.991 mm. I'm measured at 3.3225" on both journals.



Thursday March 2


Will take the cylinder block outside and scrub the contaminated cylinder. Scrubbing successful. Removed second main bearing. Looks OK but will replace both main bearings. Removed one sealing ring but total removal does not seem necessary. Will have the machine shop check the crank for run out when I take the cylinder block in for honing or re-bore.


Friday March 3


Got some parts cleaner and soaking a piston. I'll clean it and use to to measure the inside diameter of the cylinders with the digital micrometer.