My cylinder that holds the break fluid is leaking, so my trailer rocks back and forth as i drive since i cant fill it with fluid, its not bad just annoying, but worried i may jack my trailer up eventually. Is this worth fixing? Is there a way to "lock it up" so it wont rock. I got plenty of truck im not worried about loosing out on a breaking system, sure it would be nice, but i dunno if i want to spend the funds right now to get it back to full working order.
Tips, tricks, advice? thanks!
"The Green Machine!"
1998 ProCraft 200 BASS
1998 Mariner EFI 200 HP 2.5
4 Blade Trophy 24P
Having the exact same issue with my astro trailer.
"now were two"
hopefully someone has some knowledge to drop on us
"The Green Machine!"
1998 ProCraft 200 BASS
1998 Mariner EFI 200 HP 2.5
4 Blade Trophy 24P
there is a company that makes a magnetic plug for backing up that locks coupler in one position so as to not activate the brakes while backing up a hill/grade , cant remember the name but any normal plug that comes with most boats will work , you can buy them most marine or camping trailer supply stores, you can epoxy one on each side or just tape it in place , if you have a welder handy you can tack it into position or weld it without plug just weld inner sleeve to outer housing
i figured weld, but saving weld for last resort.
googling for the coupler not having much, luck but i'll keep looking for it.
"The Green Machine!"
1998 ProCraft 200 BASS
1998 Mariner EFI 200 HP 2.5
4 Blade Trophy 24P
The Quick Fix!! Info from the ProCraft FB page.
Just stick an ole nickle in there ha
If you want get something more serious than a nickle its called a "brake lockout bracket"
Theres a good amount on FB page for "ProCraft Boats" if not member already i suggest joining, just another good spot to gather with fellow "ProBros"
"The Green Machine!"
1998 ProCraft 200 BASS
1998 Mariner EFI 200 HP 2.5
4 Blade Trophy 24P
You could cut out a a piece of steel to fit, drill the holes, then pull the snap ring and put it in. Easy fix and no duct tape.that or you could go and pull that master cylinder and go to a&n trailer in tulsa to see if they have a rebuild kit.Originally Posted by JBigBoss
The Quick Fix!! Info from the ProCraft FB page.
Just stick an ole nickle in there ha
If you want get something more serious than a nickle its called a "brake lockout bracket"
Theres a good amount on FB page for "ProCraft Boats" if not member already i suggest joining, just another good spot to gather with fellow "ProBros"
Brakes are relatively cheap to fix. Especially compared to getting caught with intentionally disabled brakes if you have a wreck. $400 would probably replace everything.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
I'll bet money that master cylinder is the leaker. I'll check it out for you sometime when I get a chance or we go fish somewhere
This is a silly way to fix the problem. The brakes (surge brakes) are there for a REASON. Disabling them is not a good idea, and if you are involved in an accident, that can backfire as wanton negligence and your insurance might refuse to pay if someone gets hurt. Fix the brakes. You can replace the entire master cylinder / actuator if that's where it is leaking. But don't just block it so it becomes inoperative. You wouldn't do that to your truck's rear wheels I would hope.
That looks like the typical UFP actuator. You can buy 'em for $160, or fix them yourself for much less (IE master cylinder seal kit). The calipers for the wheels are something like $75 bucks with new pads included. If you have not broken or worn a line so that it is leaking, the entire repair is well under $400.
2008 Bass Cat Pantera Classic
2014 Mercury Pro XS 200
They don't work I didn't intentionally disable them lol
serious now, so your saying if I have breaks on my trailer they better work. Cause I'm like I got plenty of truck to stop my boat, why bother getting the breaks fixed? I've owned a boat similar in size in the past that didn't have trailer breaks at all.
"The Green Machine!"
1998 ProCraft 200 BASS
1998 Mariner EFI 200 HP 2.5
4 Blade Trophy 24P
Picked up my trailer brake repair kit lol
"The Green Machine!"
1998 ProCraft 200 BASS
1998 Mariner EFI 200 HP 2.5
4 Blade Trophy 24P
No. If they don't work, you could plead ignorance and the worst that would probably happen would be like any normal accident, though that would depend on the jury. If you do something like lock out the actuator, that indicates that you knew they didn't work and that rather than fix them you deliberately disabled them. Your insurance company probably wouldn't cover you or represent you, and you'd almost certainly be found at fault for ANY accident because you operated with defective safety equipment that is required by law and you knew about it. You'd be found negligent, which can result in an award of three times the actual damages.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
Ok cool so I better getting them fixed is what your saying. ha
"The Green Machine!"
1998 ProCraft 200 BASS
1998 Mariner EFI 200 HP 2.5
4 Blade Trophy 24P
It's not bad to repair them. Parts aren't crazy expensive and it's easy DIY. If you run without fixing them, at least don't make it obvious you knew they weren't working.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
Bullet 21XD, 250 PRO XS
Skeeter came with the same slug with a little screw to take in and out.
I''ve also used a socket 1/2 and taped it with electric tape.
Funny part with mine is, they haven't worked since several months after I bout it new in 97. Sold it to a guy and told him the brakes on the trailer didn't work. Bought the boat back last year and he never got them fixed mainly cause he hardly used the boats in the years he's had it. I plan on getting it fixed but gotta find a place in the area. I ordered 2 back up pins off amazon last week.
I have plenty of truck to stop the trailer too, but the trailer brakes are designed to actuate in the event of a runaway if the hitch pops off. I didn't want to chance it, plus I was going through brake on the truck excessively.
My trailer had a similar problem a few years ago. There's a little shock absorber in the brake actuator assembly that eventually wears out allowing the inner member to bang back and forth excessively. If its not fixed, it blows out the brake master cylinder. I replaced the inner member assembly. It has all new guts ready to go. It took about two hours including bleeding all 4 calipers.
Single Disc, http://www.easternmarine.com/ufp-mod...actuator-34043
Tandem Disc, http://www.easternmarine.com/ufp-mod...actuator-34044
Master only, http://www.easternmarine.com/ufp-dis...cylinder-34762
Shock Absorber only, http://www.easternmarine.com/ufp-rep...absorber-32306
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