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  1. 02-11-2017, 08:20 AM #1
    OBT
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    Possible Trailer brake "Actuator" problem?

    Sorry if I'm not explaining this right, so bare with me,

    The actuator assembly (The part which connects to the trailer ball) doesn't seem to extend all the way like it used to. (Maybe it is when I'm towing!) It always seems to be only 1/2 way in the trailer tongue and I'm wondering if it's all working correctly and how to test it.

    (Note:There are times when I'll back up and gently hit the brake and then get out and go back and check it. Most times it's fully extended.)

    I'm also wondering if its time to change out the shock absorber or master cylinder on my 2008 trailer. (I drive a lot of miles per week, maybe 150 to 200 miles per) Braking "seems" OK going down hills and coming to a stop, but I never quite know if the trailer is actually helping out or if it's just my truck doing all the work.

    I've never worked on one before so so any tips or video's would be welcome.
    No one can be wrong that often so it has to be deliberate.
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  2. CatFan
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    #2 02-11-2017, 08:32 AM
    Unplug your lights and try backing up a hill. If the brakes are working, it will be tough to do without tires sliding.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​
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  3. OBT
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    #3 02-11-2017, 12:57 PM
    Ah yes! Perfect forgot about that test.... sitting around all winter makes you forget things!

    Now, how about the actuator "travel" portion of the question.
    No one can be wrong that often so it has to be deliberate.
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  4. CatFan
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    #4 02-11-2017, 07:41 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by Old Bass Tard View Post
    Ah yes! Perfect forgot about that test.... sitting around all winter makes you forget things!

    Now, how about the actuator "travel" portion of the question.
    That can change with pad wear. You may need to add fluid to compensate for pad wear.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​
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  5. rockytop
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    #5 02-12-2017, 09:23 AM
    first check the brake fluid .use a floor jack and get the tires off the ground, then back your truck close to the trailer. i use a bottle jack between the truck and trailer and some wood so you dont damage the truck or trailer. use the bottle jack to compress the brake actuator go back and hand spin the tires, they should be tight. if you have brakes let off the jack, the piston and spring should push the actuator back towards the truck. if it dont move forward then your master cylinder is shot. another thing when the master is shot you will here a clunking sound when you pull away from a total stop. you can buy and rebuild the brake actuator, but its almost cheaper to just buy the whole thing. i found out the best way to go is buy the whole kit. cus i did mine and and when i went to bleed the brakes got all the air out, only to find out my wheel cylinders where shot. the only thing i didnt change where the brake lines. great site here with good prices and videos. https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Bra..._Actuator.aspx
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  6. rockytop
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    #6 02-12-2017, 09:40 AM
    when i said kits i mean brake kits, you get the whole thing assembled. about what you pay for a pair of shoes. you get the back plate 4 bolts hold it reuse them, you get shoes springs and the wheel cylinders. you might not need shoes, just saying if there wore down. https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=...ic_Drum_Brakes
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  7. tmjbassin
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    #7 02-28-2017, 07:48 AM
    What brand actuator do you have?
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  8. rockytop
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    #8 02-28-2017, 08:27 PM
    Like to know what the OP found out. I have a Titan model 60 with the electric lockout.
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