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  1. #1
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    Floor Repair 96 201 pro *update 2/25/17

    In removing the gas tanks to replace the fuel lines, I noticed that the floor on my boat is in need or repair. I thought the soft spot in the floor was the typical near the drain Stratos mini trampoline. I found out quickly that the floor is cracked/de-laminated (see pictures below). The crack is located inside of the yellow square and is 2-3 inches of the center of the line. The picture with the screw driver is where the crack is. The composite under the tanks are good solid and the floor at the bow near both seat inserts are solid as well. This area seems to be the only soft spot.

    I would like to get opinions on the next steps and also information on where the stringers (right word?) are located under the floor. If more pictures are needed let me know.




    Last edited by Ak47soulja22; 02-26-2017 at 08:25 AM. Reason: Update
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  2. Member CastingCall's Avatar
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    #2
    My guess is you may want to cut out the yellow square area, but extended further to the right too, where the drain hole is. A circular saw set at an angle for a beveled cut, and only deep enough to JUST cut through the decking. The new replacement flooring piece would need to be cut with a matching bevel. Maybe add some support braces underneath the old floor for new piece to set into as well. Then glass that whole works together.

  3. Member cajunrgfm's Avatar
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    #3
    yes a mini 4" bladed circular saw, was my best friend, when i cut decks out,mine had a laser beam light,which is a bonus on long runs.

  4. Member Bassnailer's Avatar
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    #4
    I have a 201 pro XL I had to replace the floor in because of rot around the drain. I cut out the whole floor, took lots of pictures of the structure for future reference, glassed in a couple extra cross pieces for support, then glassed in new plywood. If you need pictures, let me know and I'd be happy to oblige.

  5. Member
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    #5
    Bassnailer,

    Could you post or send some pics of your work? I need to do the floor area around the drain in my Bass Cat.
    basskirkster123@charter.net

  6. Member Bassnailer's Avatar
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    #6
    The 201 Pro XL has fiberglass stringers which are on a 22 inch center in the area of the floor drain. On mine, the floor was 5/8 plywood laminated with fiberglass. The rotten wood was around the floor drains, where a hole had been cut without being sealed. The wood floor was solid from the stringers to to the gunwales. In order to have a solid floor, I cut the the old wood out between the stringers, so my new floor would meet the original floor in the center of the stringer. There were also 2x2 cross bracing at the front and rear that went between the stringers. I cut 2x4 cross braces, carefully measured and fitted between the stringers, to give additional support, then glassed them in between the stringers at pictured. I then glassed all the exposed edges of the original floor which had been cut down the center of the stringers. I cut replacement floor boards out of 3/4 cabinet birch, and encapsulated the two boards in fiberglass resin. I then glassed the new floor boards on top of the old stringers, and layered woven mat over the top of the new floor, overlapping the remaining original floor by about 4 inches. I didn't use any screws, and simply glassed everything in. I also omitted the floor drain, as I keep the boat indoors, and feel the drain is simply a source for rot to occur. The few times I have been caught in the rain, I just use a shop vac to dry the carpet after I get it inside. If the only source of rot is the rear drain by the seat, you will want to cut a board that is 22 inches wide and long enough to get into good wood. Then lay the replacement board on the floor, using a tape measure to center it in the middle of the boat (don't count on the floor drain being dead center, mine was off by 2 inches). There is a factory cross brace directly underneath where the seat base begins. Trace your replacement board onto the old floor, then cut with a 4 inch circular saw set to cut no more than 1/2 inch deep so you don't get into the stringer. Once you've cut a half inch deep, come back with an oscillating tool and sneak down the remaining 1/8 of an inch to finish the cut. You can then measure a 2x4 cross brace to place between the stringers, and glass it in under the middle of the joint where your repair will meet the original floor in the front. Glass everything in, and recarpeted it will be better than new.














  7. Member Ryan's Avatar
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    #7
    Looks good.

  8. Member
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    #8
    Bassnailer thank you for the visual and the direction. I might need to refer to you and your pictures when I get started on this project. i appreciate everyone's input so far!
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  9. Tony C
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    #9
    Nice work!

  10. Member
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    #10
    I would clean it more and check good . it just may be where there was seam and the glass/ epoxy has broken loose over time .
    O my boat it had did the some thing above the driver seat , mid way the rod box ?
    I used US Compoisted / in Fla. .....glass and med dry expoy and hasn't had any more problem with it . May spell it wrong .

  11. Member
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    #11
    Thanks for the pics and directions.

  12. Member
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    #12
    Update: Cut out more bad wood now looking for suggestions on how and where to locate a couple of support pieces for the new floor.

    I have thought about tying a support piece in the stringer (knotch out my stinger and glass in a new support piece) or screwing a support ledge for the piece to sit on and then use the ledge on the portside and screw the support beam from the top and not in the stringer on that side (due to it is not easily accessible). In the pictures below you can see that I have marked a line on the stringer (where I would screw in a support ledge and then the support beam would sit on top of the ledge span the length in between the stringers and be tied into the ledge on the port side).

    I am a little hesitant on screwing into the stringer (should I be)?

    On the other hand for the wood floor. Should I epoxy resin the boards only or "glass" the boards? Either way I plan to fill the small cracks/seams with epoxy resin thickened with shredded mat fibers or cabosil or coloidal powder after the boards are screwed down.





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  13. Member CastingCall's Avatar
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    #13
    Avoid using screws wherever possible, especially into a stringer - they provide another breach for water to enter at some point (no matter how well they are encapsulated). If you do use screws, make them temporary until parts are tabbed with epoxy/cloth - then remove the screws and fill voids with epoxy and cover with epoxy/cloth.

    FYI - there's a lot of good information on this site that summarizes boat construction with epoxy/glass and wood, that can be applied to making good structural repairs as well.
    http://bateau2.com/howto-index.php

    Don't cut into/notch stringers! Best bet may be to bond some cleats/supports to the existing stringers to support a few cross-braces for the floor panel to rest on.

  14. Member
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    #14
    The project "fix floor" has taken a bit of a left turn. During the process I have discovered that the foam on the port side is wet. I am currently in the process on digging out the rest of the soaked foam, I have found that the foam was dry at the 1st compartment at the bow (next to the rod locker), but I am continuing pulling wet foam from behind the gas tank section (assuming that the foam is wet all the way back towards the stern). I am wondering what is the safest way to cut into the back bilge area/battery spot (see picture below) to remove the foam? There is no soft areas in the composite in the bilge, and the transom seems solid with no flex (not ruling out that its wet and I know the one way to know it to take the motor off and the small metal cap).

    My thoughts were to cut a square out with a oscillating tool enough to get a scrapper and or a tool to remove the foam. Once I have removed the foam what should I look for, stringer damage, rotted transom? If nothing I will glass in a new piece of wood and replace foam. With the boat being 20 years old, and not knowing the TRUE history on how the previous owners took care of it, I am expecting the worst.

    In the picture below is the port side of the bilge area. I have removed a board that was glassed in (probably not stock) and it was wet. The composite under the board that is pictured is solid. The area in along the transom is ugly but its because I didn't clean up my cut.

    Last edited by Ak47soulja22; 02-25-2017 at 08:21 PM.
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  15. Member
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    #15
    Suggestions anyone?
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  16. Member
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    #16
    A holesaw might work well to get into the area below the batteries and do some inspecting. Would make for a fairly easy fix if it's not an issue.

  17. Member
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    #17
    Need some guidance. Once I have removed all the foam, what's the best way to go about replacing it? Should I pour the foam and then trim the foam or lay the floor and then cut holes in for relief and glass over?
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  18. Member
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    #18

    Update 3/29/17

    Update with the floor with a lot of pictures.

    Removed a small square piece of the bilge area to remove the foam from the copmpartments back to the transom.



    Fitting a replacement piece for the hole I cut out. Made close to a 45 degree angle on the sides with a oscillating cutting tool, it made for a great fit.


    Created cross beams for support, used 2x4 and a bench grinder to make the angle of the stringers.


    Once every piece was dry fitted to the stringer, I had to add a small piece of wood on the topside of the support beams. I resin'd and glassed the boards together.


    Dry fitted the floor and 2 layers of resin on the bottom of the floor were applied.


    Support beams fit snug, floor was pretty level with the existing floor. I used resin with cabosil (sp?) to glue the beams in. I added weights to make sure the beams were tight.


    The foam was pour'd, I used all the heavy items I had on hand to keep the floor from rising too much. Once it was cured I went back and filled in holes on the foam where it didn't fill all the way to the new and old floor.


    From there I laid resin and cabosil on the support beams and some on the stringer. Screwed the floor board to the support and threw weight on the side of the stringer that dose not have screws. I also filled the cracks in with cabosil and resin, let cure and then sanded smooth.



    After everything was secure and cured I sanded the port side down a little to make flush with the existing floor. Glass time, I put a layer of resin on the topside of the floor and then laid my 1st layer of fiberglass. resin'd over the glass to make smooth and bubble free. Repeated the process 2 times.

    bilge area


    Thanks all who commented or PM'd or texted me during this process (bassnailer, Chris). Now time for carpet :/ lol
    Last edited by Ak47soulja22; 03-29-2017 at 01:41 PM.
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