Thread: Jack plate gap

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  1. #1
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    Jack plate gap

    Doing a little motor work today & noticed the jack plate is flush on one side & the other side has almost a 1/4" gap,all the bolts are tight, it my have been like this since I got just never noticed.should I let ride since everything is tight or get it flush?

  2. Member
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    #2
    Where is the gap, is it at the transom or motor bracket? Is the gap the full length or does it taper and go away at the top or bottom? I would think a 1/4" gap could be a problem at some time. If it were me I would pull it apart and find the problem, something is creating the gap.

  3. Member
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    #3
    If you have a 1/4th inch gap, you have a problem somewhere.
    First thing is to get a straight edge and determine if it is in the transom or the jack plate. Let that determine your next step.

  4. Member
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    #4
    It's on the port side between transom & JP,its gapped from the top to about mid ways of JP.

  5. Member
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    #5
    There should not be a gap anywhere along the Jackplate and transom. You have a problem somewhere and need to have it checked be someone in the know.

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    #6
    Definitely have an issue! Getting it resolved now so it doesn't lead to bigger problems
    "Luminous beings are we not this crude matter." Yoda

  7. Member
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    #7
    Depending on the bolts you have they may be gaulded and what seems to be tight really isn't. It seemed highly recommended by others with more experience than myself to go with grade 8 or higher bolts, now would be a good time to upgrade if you haven't already. Also make sure when you seal the jackplate to the transom again not to put so much on there it holds the plate away from the transom. Also check and make sure the jackplate isn't sitting on the transom cap and that's what's holding it off.

  8. RIP -April 30,2023
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    #8
    i run grade 8, 5/8" bolts. i recommend minimum 9/16" grade 8 at the very least on the top.

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    #9
    I'm running grade 8 9/16" they are much stronger than stainless but will rust so you have to keep an eye on them.

  10. Member
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Pickwicked Basser View Post
    I'm running grade 8 9/16" they are much stronger than stainless but will rust so you have to keep an eye on them.
    Not if you get the anodized version. Mine have been in 4 years and still look brand new
    "Luminous beings are we not this crude matter." Yoda

  11. Member Stroker3.2XS's Avatar
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    #11
    Fastnel with ecoguard coating; bolts, nuts and washers. Grade 9 at 9/16" and no drilling required --- or at least in my case, no drilling.

  12. Member
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    #12
    Thanks guys,can't post a pic,gap doesn't run full jack plate length it's from top to halfway,gonna pull it off & change all the bolts tmrw.Gotta change the bolts holding motor to jack plate to stainless also,the ones on it are rusting up from the brackish water here.

  13. Banned
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    #13
    ray make sure the inside transom is not damaged plate being pulled concave, it took me 3 hrs to get one bolt out due to the inside aluminum plate was in such bad shape I couldn't get t wrench on the head. after that I tokk to making steel plates , drilling them to fit the bolt. then weld the head, no more needing a wrench inside the transom. and I like the nut being outside the boat better. just make sure you lay the plate inside, insert a marker to mark the hole, drill, then the plate is against the side of the brace. it doesn't allow the plate to move or turn.
    make sure the plate is thick enough it wont pull itself concave from tourque. and last but not least. 9/16 grade 8 bolts!!!

  14. RIP -April 30,2023
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    #14
    dont use stainless steel. their crap. STROKER OWNERS LIFES MATTER. use the bolts stroker3.2xs is talking about.

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    #15
    I would bet they have stretched and ran out of threads
    Use Grade 8- 9/16 Or 5/8 and use a big footprint on the inside out of angle or C channel

    Go100mph.com Call Me for Stroker Sales 501-281-8001

  16. Member
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    #16
    Kurt, do you prefer aluminum or steel if you use angle or c channel?

  17. Member
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    #17
    The one bolt where the gap was at was scared up,got the right bolts on the way,thanks again guys & thanks Kurt I'm gonna add some flat bar on the inside.

  18. Member
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    #18
    I used 3\8 6061 aluminum angle on mine that is 4 inches
    "Luminous beings are we not this crude matter." Yoda

  19. Member
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    #19
    guys just a few words of wisdom, be sure that what ever you use for backing BE SURE you drop it down a little and keep it away from the braces. It is tight in there and if your not careful and it gets up against the braces it can tear the fiberglass holding the brace to the transom and over time it will rip across and cause the brace to come loose and you will get lots of transom flex. What I would suggest is to use flat stock of some sorts, as using angle makes it tighter in there when it comes to tightening the nuts and bolts.

  20. Member
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    #20
    Did you use 9/16 bolts when you hung the X on Top Gun?
    Quote Originally Posted by xskeetshooter View Post
    ray make sure the inside transom is not damaged plate being pulled concave, it took me 3 hrs to get one bolt out due to the inside aluminum plate was in such bad shape I couldn't get t wrench on the head. after that I tokk to making steel plates , drilling them to fit the bolt. then weld the head, no more needing a wrench inside the transom. and I like the nut being outside the boat better. just make sure you lay the plate inside, insert a marker to mark the hole, drill, then the plate is against the side of the brace. it doesn't allow the plate to move or turn.
    make sure the plate is thick enough it wont pull itself concave from tourque. and last but not least. 9/16 grade 8 bolts!!!
    Mr StrokerDee :thumb

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