250 SHO converted to 300

[Marshfly]

You can find a like new prop of any flavor in the classifieds on this site or on eBay for much less than $700. If you are still testing props, you'd be a fool to buy new.

"Used" props in new condition I have purchased in the last 6 months: Tempest for $325, Bravo for $350, Yamaha Pro for $250. Heck, those three together are barely more than a Pro from the dealer!

[Dando]

Your argument is based upon not switching props. Yes, you have to switch props (if you are already at the limiter). Then you sell your old prop to get back some or all of the money you spent to take advantage of the increase in HP.

No matter what I pay for a prop, seems I can never sell it for as much.

[Dando]

Another way to look at this. I keep everything the same and buy the flash only. I think we will all agree (maybe), speed will not change and I'm probably banging the limiter if held WOT.
What have I gained - cut hole shot time? cut time to max speed? using less throttle to hold max speed? burning a little less full at max speed? If I'm running and gunning a tournament
all day - have I increased my number of available moves through the time savings and fuel savings? Have I gained back some bait in the water time? Did I place better because of having time to make one more cast or hit one more spot? Am I violating tourney rules by running the flash? (some yes / some no) Is the cost of the flash worth it to me over the course of the season?

Danny is correct in the smart money is the 200 and the flash. He is also correct that performance hulls will see a bigger return on the money. Question everyone has to ask to ole self (assuming your currently set up to peak performance) Is the price of the flash and a new prop (conservative 1300.00) worth 3-5 MPH? Folks that chase speed for a living will tell you that is dang cheap.

Anytime you make performance mods (whether it be to a car, boat engine, whatever) - that is a personal choice. You do it knowing you have violated the manufacturers specifications / recommendations. Any ill effects / issues from those modifications are now your responsibility, so that must be figured into the equation as well.

I agree.
If your set-up is spot on for your 250 and you're bumping the limiter.
And you want to go noticeably faster? $600 flash by itself won't do it. Either get rid of the limiter and/or be prepared to buy some props. Or borrow some until you figure out what you need. Then pay $300 for a used one and give Mark another $200 to make it right.
Basically, set back $1500 for the whole mess and you won't be disappointed.
Just don't assume $600 is the answer.

[HaulinBass]

The questions therefor would be has anyone needed warranty work on a reflashed engine. And how'd that work out.

[T-Bob]

No Danny, Im now running a much bigger prop to keep the rpms at 61-6200 as per manufactures suggestions. Sorry, yes my engine is the 200 SHO. Much more bang for your buck no doubt.
And as far as props go, you can send it to Brian at Holeshot Propeller and get better performance results for half the $200 price! Ask me how I know this...
Brought my boat in to have the 200hr service done on the engine as recommended and the dealer had no clue it was flashed. They never asked or said anything was unusual. Also took it in when my trim would not hold. It would drift down on its own. Mechanic hooked up the puter to it, made sure everything was ok and then fixed the power trim under warranty(I did not pay one cent).

[J Risco]

Question everyone has to ask to ole self (assuming your currently set up to peak performance) Is the price of the flash and a new prop (conservative 1300.00) worth 3-5 MPH? Folks that chase speed for a living will tell you that is dang cheap.

Yep, many people have spent much more for much less gain!!! Few hundred bucks per mph is dirt cheap in the performance world

[Dando]

Yep, many people have spent much more for much less gain!!!

It's a progressive thing. The faster you go, the more expensive and stingy the gains become.

[Rich Z]

J Risco let me try his flashed ecu on my fx20. With tournament load, full tanks, 2 PP and 2 people touched 78gps at 6200 with worked 25t1. Normally, this boat would run 73 at 6k loaded. The day before it ran 76 solo. Weather conditions both days were the same. There is something there to be had but not for me, at least not now as I fish several flw events this year.

[J Risco]

J Risco let me try his flashed ecu on my fx20. With tournament load, full tanks, 2 PP and 2 people touched 78gps at 6200 with worked 25t1. Normally, this boat would run 73 at 6k loaded. The day before it ran 76 solo. Weather conditions both days were the same. There is something there to be had but not for me, at least not now as I fish several flw events this year.

This is why I still have a stock ecu... and another setup with the flash for play days

I went for the ride with Rich with the flashed ecu on his Skeeter, was a fun ride. Def a good pick up with no other changes, and more is prob there with prop and setup work... maybe 80+

Earlier in the day I went 88 with the flashed setup under great weather conditions, but fully loaded, full fuel and the rear port compartment full with an extra TM battery/water bottles to balance load and simulate a partner... I def think there is potential to break 90. I went right by Rich who was being my lookout/safety boat, he got a great look at her flying high!

[davepjr71]

Davepjr71 - The dyno chart reflects a full pull of the std tune with the rev limiter raised to 7K RPM. Read the graph to 6200 RPM for std tune result with limiter left at stock setting.
Also, the dyno pulls are taken at the crank and not the prop shaft. While no 2 healthy powerheads will yield duplicate output, they will be within a close range of each other.
The boat in the video is the std tune with the limiter raised to the 7K point. Some folks run to the raised limiter, some don't. The tune itself is the same either way.

As far as the tune that's what I thought.

[davepjr71]

Gained 10mph from a flash...and a propeller....and some more RPM. AND, this on a boat that will respond well to performance mods.
Not one, but THREE, things that changed as far as we know. What we don't is if these three things is ALL that was done? If the initial set-up may have been lacking. We also don't know how it launches now.
BUT, it's also a given. You need all three of those to go faster. So, if you're not wanting to buy more props (and/or) do away with the rev limiter? You won't gain much.

I'm all for increasing the RPM to go faster, but, at what cost? 6,700? Will it hold up for extended runs? And since no limiter, where's it going to go from 6,700 when the lower unit clears water?

What you are missing is that you could do the flash and keep the revs around 6100 and have an extremely strong 300 with it costing you only a prop and $600 compared to $2-$5k for a different motor that will not produce 10 more MPH. In reality you could run the same prop and get a big increase depending on prop. In the CC world a lot of guys are getting 5600 RPM out of their SHO's. They could do a tune and keep the prop and get to 6100 with the big speed increase.

[davepjr71]

The questions therefor would be has anyone needed warranty work on a reflashed engine. And how'd that work out.

There is a law that protects a moder. Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act which states the dealer would have to prove the mod damaged the engine.

[trusler]

86.6 loaded with prolly too much tackle, 25 rods and reels , 2 power poles, cooler filled with drinks, and a half tank of gas, by myself (185lbs) these Sterlings will flat out run, I can back JRs sterling running what it does, I'm right behind him on numbers and 86.6 I honestly had more in it but i was running out of lake and to be honest it was scaring me, because these sterlings flat out with run when set up right. I have some more tweeking to do to mine but I believe I'll be right there at 89 - 90 with JR.

[jrbritt]

86.6 loaded with prolly too much tackle, 25 rods and reels , 2 power poles, cooler filled with drinks, and a half tank of gas, by myself (185lbs) these Sterlings will flat out run, I can back JRs sterling running what it does, I'm right behind him on numbers and 86.6 I honestly had more in it but i was running out of lake and to be honest it was scaring me, because these sterlings flat out with run when set up right. I have some more tweeking to do to mine but I believe I'll be right there at 89 - 90 with JR.

GREAT JOB . DO THE OTHER LITTLE THINGS I TOLD YOU TO DO . AND I HAVE NO DOUBT YOUR BOAT WILL RUN 89 OR 90 .....

[jrbritt]

[davepjr71]

How are your fuel numbers with the mod?

[tmayon]

TOURNAMENT RULES DO NOT ALLOW THIS TO BE DONE. EVEN MEDIA HAS RULES ABOUT MANUFACTURERS HORSEPOWER RATING CANNOT BE EXCEEDED. THIS IS ABSOULUTELY THE ONLY REASON I HAVE NOT DONE IT TO MY ENGINE. MAYBE THE ONLY WAY AROUND SUCH RULE ON THE SMALLER TOURN TRAILS SUCH AS MEDIA IS THAT THEY DO NOT STATE MAXIMUM HORSEPOWER BEING 250. SO IF YOU HAVE A BOAT RATED "UNLIMITED HORSEPOWER" ON THE PLATE OR ONE WITH A RATING OF 300 OR MORE, THAN MORE POWER TO YOU. IN MY CASE THOUGH, MY FX 20 IS RATED FOR 250HP.... SO THEREFORE I CANNOT CHANGE MY ENGINE BY FLASHING THE ECU AND NOT BE CONCIDERED BREAKING A RULE IN MY MIND. IF THIS WAS NOT THE CASE THOUGH AND IF TOURNAMENT BASS FISHING WASN'T MY ABSOLUTE PASSION AND PURPOSE, THAN I WOULD HAVE IT DONE FOR THE SMALL PRICE OF $600-$650 TO GAIN, IN MY CASE 50HP, MUCH LESS TO GET FROM 200HP TO 300HP, JUST TO BE ABLE TO TURN A CONSTANT 6000 RPM EVEN IF IT'S 100 DEGREES AND 100% HUMIDITY. NOW, IF SOMEONE HAS A SMALLER BASS BOAT OR ALUMINUM RIG RATED FOR A 200 AND FLASH THEIR ENGINE TO A 300, THEN I PRAY FOR THEIRS AND ALL OF THE REST OF OUR SAFETY WHO ARE ON THE WATER WITH THEM. SOME THINGS ARE JUST NOT MADE TO GO TOGETHER, AND A 900 LBS. NON-HIGH PERFORMANCE BOAT WITH AN OVERRATED 300HP MOTOR SLINGING A 30 PITCH PROP 6100 RPM'S IS PROBABLY ONE OF THEM.

[bassworm1]

You may be surprised of how many tins are out there running big numbers alot of is whats betweens the drivers ears not the boat or motor

[StrokerSmoker]

You may be surprised of how many tins are out there running big numbers alot of is whats betweens the drivers ears not the boat or motor

+1000....there are plenty of people running around in 1000hp cars most can handle it.....but their is also some people that shouldn't drive a 88 hp car either...lol...even in my area there are plenty of tournaments that don't have hp regs I have much more fun and enjoyment out of my rig with hp and if I want I can cruise at 80 and if I want I can turn it up anytime.....besides you don't have to run wide open all the time.....