The oil in my cool hubs turns a milky color after just a short tow. The seals have been replaced at the beginning of the season. I feel the oil is foaming, is that possible? I have changed the oil and have tried different oils and with the same results. The hubs don't get hot after a tow to the lake. Both sides look the same, to me it's odd that water is getting in both sides. Thinking about changing to grease and bearing buddies. Any thoughts??
First, I had COOL Hubs on my last Ranger and twice had problems with them on the road. I am a firm believer that greased hubs are about as bulletproof of a system that has yet been invented.
The trailer department at Ranger told us during a plant tour that when trailering even a short distance, the hubs will get warm and when backing them into a cold lake will result in condensation inside the hubs. And, that only one drop of water would turn the oil milky. They also said that milky oil is NOT a problem and nothing to worry about until it starts to get chunky, like spoiled milk. So, it's doubtful that you have a bad seal. If you did, oil would be leaking out. So, the best advice at this point is "Don't sweat it."
"The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments
If oil ain't leakin out more than likely you're good. Change it a couple or three times a year just to check, cheap insurance.
BULLET 20 XRD/250 Merc Sport XS
www.ncboatguy.com
I ran the Ranger cool hubs for 13 years on my last boat without any issues. I changed oil in them once a year using 50W as per the instruction manual. That trailer rolled out of my driveway a few weeks ago for the last time on the original bearings and seals. I hope the new boat, motor, & trailer are as good as what it replaced.
Phillip "Wade" Norris
2015 Ranger Z520C
250 Merc Optimax Pro XS (S# 2B113454)
25P Fury - 4 blade all holes open
Make sure to fill them completely.Any room in the oil level and condensation will form from the transfer of heat.
Ed
Yes on the original COOL Hubs, but the later versions are only filled 1/2 way.Originally Posted by clayshooter
"The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments
Hint: take trailer for a ride first. This will heat the hubs and will and make it easier to drain.
Last edited by bassnman81; 01-11-2017 at 11:12 AM.
Lake Norman, N.C./New Britain, CT.
An Khe 66-67
There must be something wrong with the design of the Cool Hubs. We pulled our drag boats all over the country into all kinds of conditions including salt, cold, warm & hot. The oil filled hub level was less than half full to allow for expansion. The hubs were exposed with a clear cap so we could visibly check the oil. The few times that the oil became milky, we just replaced seals, cleaned everything up, refilled and went on our merry way. Never had a bearing failure. They were wonderful.
Last edited by fishingfox; 01-10-2017 at 06:12 PM. Reason: Added clear cap info
'82 Champion 201 Pro, 'Rude 235 Looper, "The Lead Sled", One Power Head in 34 years, VERY thirsty!
You don't provide the year/model of the boat/trailer and if it's a tandem.
Did you check/replace the wear sleeves on the spindle?
The boat is a 2008 single axle with a 519 on top. Did not do the work, can not answer the wear sleeves question.
08 with average use would be due for wear sleeves. That info up in mait. section on Ranger board.
I had a Ranger Z20 with the same Tie Down Engineering hubs. As stated above, you should replace the wear sleeves in addition to the grease seals. You can get the correct wear sleeves from Ranger. Yours should have O rings that go under the wear sleeves. Get those also from Ranger also. The grease seals run against the wear sleeves and is a source of a leak. Have all this work done and clean the back of the rims thoroughly. That way you can see if you are leaking grease.
2015 Ranger Z520C Yamaha 250
if you fill it completely with hub oil, there is no room for moisture to enter. this is the only way to completely keep water out
2004 Ranger 521vx Yamaha 250 SHO
They are only partially filled. That is per the OEM and Ranger.
All info for these hubs is located in the pinned mait. section on the Ranger board.. Some of us took allot of time to assemble pictures and info for these hubs.
Last edited by mikesxpress; 01-17-2017 at 05:22 AM.
use synthetic oil like amsoil - it wont stop the milky color, but will continue to lubricate with high water content.
Jack
2005 Ranger 520 DX
2005 Mercury 225 Optimax Pro XS
Mercury Trophy 24
Mk Ultrex 110 Ipilot link
Powerpole 8'
Hb helix 9 di S/N
Hb helix 10 si. S/N
Garmin 10 UHD W/ Panoptix
you said fill it all the way up, i did that and the pressure was too much and blew the cap off and i did not know , cost me 1000 to fix . ranger said fill 1/2 way. your thoughts
Stillwater....the UFP GOLD hubs are filled completely and UFP says they should last 20,000 miles before changing/adding oil.....the VAULT hubs are filled halfway, warrantied for 5 years (and up to 10 if you buy the extended warranty) and UFP wants you to contact them directly if you plan to DIY maintenance.
Vaults are filled completely also. http://www.vmboattrailers.com/images...ult_7-8-09.pdf
He probably meant Vortex, Rocket Man
Good Morning Dennis.
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