Had a seal fail on my 3.0l sportmaster and locked my gearcase up (broke my foward pinion from what i cant tell so far). I cant get the reverse pinion gear to come out in order to further tear down and rebuild the lower. I was wondering if anybody had an idea of how i might get it out without torching. I'm afraid I'll ruin the gearcase if I use heat.
I had the same thing happen a few years ago. My tech told me he had to hold the nut with a wrench and beat on the tooth of the pinion gear with a hammer & brass punch to loosen the nut.
Thats my problem i cant get anything past the rear pinion to get to nut cause its whole. I can barely see past it with a light and see the forward pinion has about a 1inch chunk broke off of it. The reverse pinion will slide back enough to see it through the exhaust port
The gearcase only has 1 pinion, 1 forward and 1 reverse gear. It's evident to me that you need to take it to someone qualified before you cost yourself even more money! JMO
Sorry my wording may be wrong but i know how it works and I'm confident i can handle the disassembling of it myself. (Not saying I'm a pro by no means and im not trying to come off as a smart alec.) Its been a year since ive messed with it and im just wanting to either rebuild it or trash it and move on. I was just asking for some pointers before i proceed.
I'm not sure what you mean by "it's whole" but the reverse (rear) gear should slide off the prop shaft once the bearing carrier and bearing are removed. If it overheated you may need a puller.
As stated, without any special tools you'll have to hold the nut with a box end wrench at the pinion gear. Use a hammer and brass or wooden drift to hit on a pinion gear tooth all while putting a twisting pressure on the driveshaft with your 3rd hand! A helper will suffice for a 3rd hand!!!
Good Luck and don't forget to Locktite the nut when reassembling!
As I now understand his problem is a little different than mine. The reason mine had to use the hammer & brass punch AFTER the reverse gear was removed is because my driveshaft was broke off below the water pump so there was nothing to hold while trying to turn the nut. It sounds like his problem is the reverse gear is "welded" to the prop shaft from overheating when he oil vacated.
10/4 thanks for the help guys. I have a friend of mine that owns a auto repair shop that can help out with the tools and all.
Yeah rocketman thats what it seems to have done.
I highly recommend going back with all new internals even if some look good. My gears appeared to be all good so all he changed was the drive shaft, bearings & seals. 8 months later the pinion slung a tooth through the side & I had to get a whole new SM gearcase.
10/4 yeah im going back will all new
It sounds like you will probably need heat. I would get a little propane torch & if you focus the heat only on the stuck parts you should be ok. I used this method to remove my stuck flywheel a few years ago.
10/4 yeah im going back will all new
Sporty lowers seem to be crap these days. Go venture on the Stroker board and see how many have blown lately. Hell their even talking their self into "cold treating" the gears.........Not a bash, but it's obvious Mercury is putting out a crap product lately......
I'm not disagreeing with dlab but mine failed due to the seal blowing out and all the oil vacated while running unbeknownst to me. It sounds as though the op's was the same.
If you put more than 28oz of oil in it you may as well invest in all the special tools needed to rebuild it. I use 24oz myself. This applies to the 3.0l sportmaster only
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