Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 29
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    spring hill florida
    Posts
    44

    Need a little advise

    had my boat checked out by a mobile marine company at the cost of $150 and he said that my oil injector pump is not working, well its working but not pumping enough oil, ( I thought it does work or doesn't, no in between). he says it should really smoke on a 2 stroke if that's correct. so now I have to buy an injector for 1990 Merc. 100hp Before you say it, disengaging it and premixing is not an option I want to go in. so does anyone know of a company that I can trust, if I buy new I'm looking about $250 which is okay, and used is about $80. just don't if used is a way to go even if the ads say great working condition. any help would surely appreciate

  2.  
  3. Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Birmingham AL (Pelham)
    Posts
    797
    #2
    Step 1. Find ANOTHER marine dealer. "should really smoke" is hardly a proper diagnosis. I'd personally not mind premix as I did that on my 1992 Merc. But if you really want to stick with the auto injection, there is a straightforward test to see if the pump is pumping enough oil. I no longer have my old service manual so I can't give you the correct volume, but the basic idea is to use a gallon of pre-mixed 50:1 so that you can take the output from the pump and let it run into a measuring cup. The manual has a cc or oz number for a minute of running. As I said, I don't recall the entire procedure as that was a long time ago, but the merc service manual gave clear and simple instructions. Then you will KNOW whether it is oiling properly or not without the so-called "smoke test" nonsense.

  4. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    1,094
    #3
    Really? The motor isn't smoking enough?
    If the pump was not working at the proper volume the motor would have serious internal issues.
    Definitely find a competent mechanic.

    Have you got run or performance issues or were you just having a 'routine service'?

    PS: please add your serial number so that you get motor-specific information.
    Michael Martin
    Virginia...now in Maryland
    1998 P III, 2006 200 Optimax SOLD
    2017 Robalo 226 Cayman, 200 Yamaha 4 stroke

  5. Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    spring hill florida
    Posts
    44
    #4
    just a Peace Of Mind check before I hit the lakes ( so much for POM )compression test he did showed 120,90,115,110. he said number 3 cyl was scorched. and I did get a full tech service manual the other day from a marine shop going out of business for $10. ser # is oc216088. I took it for a spin before I bought it a month ago and sounded good no alarms no misses. thank you for all your help

  6. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    1,094
    #5
    If indeed, there is a "scorched cylinder" that is the beginning of the end for the motor (though I must confess to not knowing in technical terms what "scorched" means).
    Once a cylinder overheats and metal transfers from the piston to the cylinder wall, that cylinder is likely to continue to have issues leading to destructive consequences.
    I would suggest a competent examination of the motor before any further use.
    Michael Martin
    Virginia...now in Maryland
    1998 P III, 2006 200 Optimax SOLD
    2017 Robalo 226 Cayman, 200 Yamaha 4 stroke

  7. Member
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Spangle, WA
    Posts
    2,055
    #6
    Maybe meant scored, but that's not good either. I'd seek a second opinion from a well qualified, reputable Mercury tech before spending any money on that engine.
    _______

    Phil
    '09 Hewescraft ProV
    '09 150 Optimax


  8. Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    California
    Posts
    191
    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by SilverFox579 View Post
    Maybe meant scored, but that's not good either. I'd seek a second opinion from a well qualified, reputable Mercury tech before spending any money on that engine.
    +1
    David Patten
    Automotive and marine technician.

  9. Member straffordengineer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Strafford, Missouri
    Posts
    361
    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by bugman63 View Post
    just a Peace Of Mind check before I hit the lakes ( so much for POM )compression test he did showed 120,90,115,110. he said number 3 cyl was scorched. and I did get a full tech service manual the other day from a marine shop going out of business for $10. ser # is oc216088. I took it for a spin before I bought it a month ago and sounded good no alarms no misses. thank you for all your help
    Low cylinder could also just mean carbon buildup. I would run a can of Power Tune through it and retest. You can rent (free) a compression tester from an Auto Parts supplier like Auto Zone.

  10. Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Birmingham AL (Pelham)
    Posts
    797
    #9
    I don't quite see how carbon build up will cause low compression. High-compression - yes. But not so much low.

    That's an old motor. Should be easy to remove the head and have a look. Then you can see whether any cylinder shows any sort of metal-to-metal transfer as you spin the motor by hand and check bore carefully. Since it is running, if something is wrong, a new sleeve and piston will have you on the water without costing a fortune. If not, you wasted a head gasket. They are not very expensive. The carbureted motors from back then were dirt-simple to work on. Today's motors look about like what you see under the hood of a new car, maybe a bit MORE complex with the DFI air compressor addition.

  11. Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    California
    Posts
    191
    #10
    It is not impossible for carbon build up to cause low compression, especially if the build up is causing the rings to stick in the piston grooves.

    Can't pull the head on a 4 cylinder 100.... It doesn't have one. The combustion chambers are cast as one piece with the cylinder block. The best you could do without teardown is to scope it through the spark plug holes.
    David Patten
    Automotive and marine technician.

  12. Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Birmingham AL (Pelham)
    Posts
    797
    #11
    I should have remembered that about the head. I owned a merc 850 YEARS ago (late 70's) that was made the same way. A bore scope would be far easier even if you could remove the head as an alternative, but I have not seen anyone rent those anywhere.

  13. Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    east texas
    Posts
    3,137
    #12
    a good comp gage used correctly will tell you if you have a scored cyl/ this is a 2+2 mtr only idles on top 2 cyl when set up correctly they barely smoke at all at idle they run very lean at low speed/ if indeed there is a bad cyl can be bored easily hope this helps JOE
    where the grass is green and the girls are pretty

  14. Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    spring hill florida
    Posts
    44
    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by JOE54 View Post
    a good comp gage used correctly will tell you if you have a scored cyl/ this is a 2+2 mtr only idles on top 2 cyl when set up correctly they barely smoke at all at idle they run very lean at low speed/ if indeed there is a bad cyl can be bored easily hope this helps JOE
    thanks joe, so maybe the guy who did my check didnt know that it doent smoke at idle so maybe my pump is okay, that would save me $200, should I do my own check and run it at a higher RPM to see if it smokes or how can be sure that the pump is okay. again thanks

  15. Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    east texas
    Posts
    3,137
    #14
    REALLY need to check comp first to verify cyl condition/ I have worked on literaly hundreds of these engines since their design and never a pump fail now hoses and tanks yes but not pumps odds are its fine/at 700 rpm ran on 50:1 mix for 15 min should pump around 30cc temp of oil may vary output /it will smoke at idle just not much
    where the grass is green and the girls are pretty

  16. Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    spring hill florida
    Posts
    44
    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by JOE54 View Post
    REALLY need to check comp first to verify cyl condition/ I have worked on literaly hundreds of these engines since their design and never a pump fail now hoses and tanks yes but not pumps odds are its fine/at 700 rpm ran on 50:1 mix for 15 min should pump around 30cc temp of oil may vary output /it will smoke at idle just not much
    he ran it for maybe 5 mins and stopped, he said the the inline filter should have a tint of blue, but it was white, the motor is an 89-90 and i noticed the oil tank must have been changed for it says 2006 on it. he did a comp check which i did not actually see the compression, but he said it was as follows 120,90,115,110 he looked in number 3 cyl with his eye (no flash light) and it was scored, he did #3 again and it came up to 95, so I'm thinking he didnt know what the hell he was doing

  17. Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    spring hill florida
    Posts
    44
    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by JOE54 View Post
    REALLY need to check comp first to verify cyl condition/ I have worked on literaly hundreds of these engines since their design and never a pump fail now hoses and tanks yes but not pumps odds are its fine/at 700 rpm ran on 50:1 mix for 15 min should pump around 30cc temp of oil may vary output /it will smoke at idle just not much
    he ran it for maybe 5 mins and stopped, he said the the inline filter should have a tint of blue, but it was white, the motor is an 89-90 and i noticed the oil tank must have been changed for it says 2006 on it. he did a comp check which i did not actually see the compression, but he said it was as follows 120,90,115,110 he looked in number 3 cyl with his eye (no flash light) and it was scored, he did #3 again and it came up to 95, so I'm thinking he didnt know what the hell he was doing

  18. Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    spring hill florida
    Posts
    44
    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by JOE54 View Post
    REALLY need to check comp first to verify cyl condition/ I have worked on literaly hundreds of these engines since their design and never a pump fail now hoses and tanks yes but not pumps odds are its fine/at 700 rpm ran on 50:1 mix for 15 min should pump around 30cc temp of oil may vary output /it will smoke at idle just not much
    tried to send you a PM but your box is full, LOL

  19. Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    east texas
    Posts
    3,137
    #18
    sorry about box [I'm wanted man] if it is scored needs repair /visual is really not a good test
    where the grass is green and the girls are pretty

  20. Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    spring hill florida
    Posts
    44
    #19
    Great news, this guy ( my wife works with) who's father has been a boat mechanic for over 30 years say the pump is fine everything works great, he said I should do a PM on the prop, he said that the prop that is on it over $400. and if the rubber gourmet ( unknown the actual name) goes there is no warning and piece of it will get sucked up into the motor and do real damage for $130 it might be worth doing

  21. Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    hagerstown md
    Posts
    8,910
    #20
    He might be talking about the water pump impeller but if he is telling you parts of the rubber hub or the Delron sleeve in the prop are going to get up into the motor find another mechanic.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast