Thread: Speed Thrills

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  1. Member 2500's Avatar
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    #21
    Their is the mag or items, I see dings on props, skews cracked and hulls with gouges and deep scrapes. The steering is off and wrong prop. I adjust my weights and yes some pad detail has been done. Other things and trying several prop of same type, some are better than others. Also make sure the motor is tuned and full throttle movement. The biggest is weight in boat. Properly stored like the heavier stuff to center line of boat. Seats up slow u down, high mounted graphs slow u down. Another thing is driving abilities, takes time to learn feel of each hull. Takes time to learn 70 to 80 to 90 to 100. As u get faster more things can happen faster. RR is dead own. Believe it or not a clean boat that's smooth runs faster.
    JEFF MURRAY
    RANGER Z521C & 15 VERADO PRO 250
    BULLET 21SDC W/ VERADO PRO 300---saving up
    DEEP CREEK LURES and ROSE JIGS
    GREENFISH TACKLE

  2. Member cwilt's Avatar
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    #22
    Nice read. Thanks for your time posting on here.
    2008 Ranger 178VX
    150 Yamaha V-max
    Member #15410

    GO Fins!!!

  3. Member
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    #23
    Roger, thanks for giving me a bunch of things to think about all Winter. I may have to swing by Bay, AR. and coerce you into driving mine by the seat of your pants and suggesting a few things. It's only a 150 HP, 4 stroke, but it just seems like it has more in it. Happy New Year
    2015 Ranger Z118C w/150 Mercury 4s

  4. Kentucky Bass Club/Trailers & Towing Moderator
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    #24
    Be nice if the guy that moderates this forum would freaking sticky this. Geesh. The mods around this place.

  5. Member 2015Ranger's Avatar
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    #25
    Well I am in the category of cannot get my boat to run how some on here have said there's would. Now I will admit I am having a tough time learning to drive thru the chine walk once on the pad and at WOT. I have always been told to keep ticking the steering wheel to the left and I have tried and tried but to no avail. I just ran my boat yesterday by myself, tempest 24, about 25 gallons fuel, no passenger seat, heavy weight distributed in the back as much as possible, temperatures in mid 70's light winds just enough for a slight chop and the most I saw was 71.5 before the chine walk got scary and I had to let off. Even the though I realize that some of you more experienced WOT drivers may get an additional .5 out of her possibly I would like to know when you guys are reaching WOT how long does this take in distance or time?
    I am a very particular person, I had my 100 service done at 85 hours I always use European's cocktail mix in every tank, also I have only put ethanol gas in it one time because I could not find a station with non-ethanol, so I think I follow Rogers recommendation's on keeping my motor in top shape. Now I bought a Bravo 1 in 25P but down south in shallow water the second time out I dinged it and it is not the same but the tempest has no dings on it. WOT 71.5 @5870 rpm's.
    So it is frustrating for me to see these guys put on here that they are running 2 miles an hour faster with tournament load and two people, under those conditions I might run 69 with wind to my back.

    Recap of my rig-

    2015 119C dual console
    225 Opti
    10" Hyd plate
    No poles
    36 Vt troll motor

    Thanks and good info RR, I need to check the steering but I don't think I have an issue.
    1990 481V
    2005 195VS Intracoastal (Redfish Edition)
    2015 119C
    Love my Ranger Boats

  6. AR Bass Club/AR Fishing/ Ranger Boats Moderator GhostComanche's Avatar
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    #26
    Quote Originally Posted by sjcorpst View Post
    Roger, thanks for giving me a bunch of things to think about all Winter. I may have to swing by Bay, AR. and coerce you into driving mine by the seat of your pants and suggesting a few things. It's only a 150 HP, 4 stroke, but it just seems like it has more in it. Happy New Year
    I would be happy to Sir and you are welcome at my place at anytime......................Maybe at a Rally; IE..............Midwest in March??.......................RR


    "Never argue with an idiot; He will beat you to death with stupidity"

  7. AR Bass Club/AR Fishing/ Ranger Boats Moderator GhostComanche's Avatar
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    #27
    Quote Originally Posted by 2015Ranger View Post
    Well I am in the category of cannot get my boat to run how some on here have said there's would. Now I will admit I am having a tough time learning to drive thru the chine walk once on the pad and at WOT. I have always been told to keep ticking the steering wheel to the left and I have tried and tried but to no avail. I just ran my boat yesterday by myself, tempest 24, about 25 gallons fuel, no passenger seat, heavy weight distributed in the back as much as possible, temperatures in mid 70's light winds just enough for a slight chop and the most I saw was 71.5 before the chine walk got scary and I had to let off. Even the though I realize that some of you more experienced WOT drivers may get an additional .5 out of her possibly I would like to know when you guys are reaching WOT how long does this take in distance or time?
    I am a very particular person, I had my 100 service done at 85 hours I always use European's cocktail mix in every tank, also I have only put ethanol gas in it one time because I could not find a station with non-ethanol, so I think I follow Rogers recommendation's on keeping my motor in top shape. Now I bought a Bravo 1 in 25P but down south in shallow water the second time out I dinged it and it is not the same but the tempest has no dings on it. WOT 71.5 @5870 rpm's.
    So it is frustrating for me to see these guys put on here that they are running 2 miles an hour faster with tournament load and two people, under those conditions I might run 69 with wind to my back.

    Recap of my rig-

    2015 119C dual console
    225 Opti
    10" Hyd plate
    No poles
    36 Vt troll motor

    Thanks and good info RR, I need to check the steering but I don't think I have an issue.
    Troy, I sent you a IM Buddy. I will take a guess that your lower is a "Wingmaster"? If it is, the best wheel that you can run on your boat IMO is a BB 25" Tempest Plus with PTP dead on at 2.25". Put a "known" mark on your plate at 2.5" as a reference point and run at 2.25" when going for WOT speeds. On the chine.................for a boat to chine means that it is wanting to run. For it to run you have to be able to control it. Contrary to what many people in my life have told me, you don't drive through it; You can't without correct operator input !!!.............run the boat up and when "wiggle" first starts, burp the trim down a tad....................just enough to control it. Oftentimes, just a quick bump down will cancel the wobble till the boat settles out and then try to bump it up again..................given time, it will be second nature. My 519C was a consistant 74 mph boat with the same engine as yours.......................Good luck and call me if I can help further....................RR
    Last edited by GhostComanche; 12-29-2016 at 09:21 PM.


    "Never argue with an idiot; He will beat you to death with stupidity"

  8. Member
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    #28
    A good candidate for a pinned post, Well Done and thanks.

    In future write ups can if you are inclined,address and speak to trim angle (as you have touched on that) and more importantly engine height as it relates to either speed or comfort. And what sign you look for that you have gotten all she going to give via either engine performance or other things you might look for. For sake of a new guy when you have your best overall performance what was your trim angle and what was prop to pad, and then as you changed either one what was the negative results. Currently I am running a 2014 Ranger Z520c with a 250 Pro XS. Hyd Jack Plate, 3 blade Fury, and a new 3 blade with the extra vent holes ( my hole shot is horrible). I am very new to this much engine and not sure what I am doing. I mainly fish river water so a long WOT generally dosent happen. And many days just fighting white caps.
    Last edited by Beallright; 12-30-2016 at 12:30 PM. Reason: More Questions

  9. BBC SPONSOR
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    #29
    Quote Originally Posted by GhostComanche View Post
    Last 12" of my pad is lightly sanded. A fella can't share all of his marbles though. RR
    Rog I have gone as far as taking my engine off, flipping my boat in my garage and blue printing the bottom, that was a very long time ago. There are a lot of small things you can do to put a boat up on its Pad to make her fly. You covered several of the simple things RR. Good job as always!

  10. AR Bass Club/AR Fishing/ Ranger Boats Moderator GhostComanche's Avatar
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    #30
    Quote Originally Posted by RangerRodney View Post
    Rog I have gone as far as taking my engine off, flipping my boat in my garage and blue printing the bottom, that was a very long time ago. There are a lot of small things you can do to put a boat up on its Pad to make her fly. You covered several of the simple things RR. Good job as always!
    Thanks Rodney. I hope retirement is treating you well brother. My fingers got tired last night typing....................I will share more in depth tips in the near future.......................RR


    "Never argue with an idiot; He will beat you to death with stupidity"

  11. Member 2015Ranger's Avatar
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    Apr 2015
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    Louisiana
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    #31
    Quote Originally Posted by GhostComanche View Post
    Troy, I sent you a IM Buddy. I will take a guess that your lower is a "Wingmaster"? If it is, the best wheel that you can run on your boat IMO is a BB 25" Tempest Plus with PTP dead on at 2.25". Put a "known" mark on your plate at 2.5" as a reference point and run at 2.25" when going for WOT speeds. On the chine.................for a boat to chine means that it is wanting to run. For it to run you have to be able to control it. Contrary to what many people in my life have told me, you don't drive through it; You can't without correct operator input !!!.............run the boat up and when "wiggle" first starts, burp the trim down a tad....................just enough to control it. Oftentimes, just a quick bump down will cancel the wobble till the boat settles out and then try to bump it up again..................given time, it will be second nature. My 519C was a consistant 74 mph boat with the same engine as yours.......................Good luck and call me if I can help further....................RR
    Thank you, that chine walk thing is a problem and got scary twice once when the Bravo 1 was new, compared to the fury 24 that came with the boat felt like only the prop was in the water...LOL. Going to get myself a new prop in Feb, I wonder if Croxton can make the 24 tempest a 25? I would love to have that fury 4 if he can. Anyway thanks again and Happy New Year.
    1990 481V
    2005 195VS Intracoastal (Redfish Edition)
    2015 119C
    Love my Ranger Boats

  12. AR Bass Club/AR Fishing/ Ranger Boats Moderator GhostComanche's Avatar
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    #32
    Quote Originally Posted by Beallright View Post
    A good candidate for a pinned post, Well Done and thanks.

    In future write ups can if you are inclined,address and speak to trim angle (as you have touched on that) and more importantly engine height as it relates to either speed or comfort. And what sign you look for that you have gotten all she going to give via either engine performance or other things you might look for. For sake of a new guy when you have your best overall performance what was your trim angle and what was prop to pad, and then as you changed either one what was the negative results. Currently I am running a 2014 Ranger Z520c with a 250 Pro XS. Hyd Jack Plate, 3 blade Fury, and a new 3 blade with the extra vent holes ( my hole shot is horrible). I am very new to this much engine and not sure what I am doing. I mainly fish river water so a long WOT generally dosent happen. And many days just fighting white caps.
    Beal, without getting into another book at this time, a 25" Fury 4 set at 2.0" pad to center will cure your problems and make you a very happy camper. RR


    "Never argue with an idiot; He will beat you to death with stupidity"

  13. Member
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    #33
    Years ago back when they had shotgun takeoffs I sanded off about 3/8" from the very end of the pad on the hull. They used to all come with a little lip there from the mold. Just had to take a straight edge to see it. Not many people knew about that and it made one hell of a difference!

  14. Member crank68's Avatar
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    #34
    Quote Originally Posted by oldgoat188 View Post
    Years ago back when they had shotgun takeoffs I sanded off about 3/8" from the very end of the pad on the hull. They used to all come with a little lip there from the mold. Just had to take a straight edge to see it. Not many people knew about that and it made one hell of a difference!
    This is called having a hook in the hull... Some hulls actually need a little to perform correctly, some don't. It can also dramatically impact the way your boat handles in the turns...

    Bullet 20 XRD/250 MercSport XS

  15. Member Fuzzy Willy's Avatar
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    #35
    Thank you for your thoughts and insight "Ghost", I really enjoyed reading this thread, well done. Especially your comment about driving through chine walk. In my Z119c I haven't experienced any chine walk, but years ago I had a Triton (between Rangers) and the chine walk over 65 was unreal. I finally got rid of it as I didn't want my son driving it. Thought I tried everything to "drive through it", but never worked for me. No one mentioned, at that time and I didn't think of it , to just bump down the trim, let it settle then go for it again. A simple thing that surely would make a difference, that I never did try.
    Last edited by Fuzzy Willy; 01-06-2017 at 05:29 AM.
    2015 Ranger Z119c / 2015 Merc 225 Pro XS/ 24 Fury 4 & 25.5 Bravo 1xs



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