detontated cylinder

[fscott1520svx]

Good morning. i had a little trouble with number 6 cylinder this last weekend. no warning beeper or anything. running wot for about 10 minutes at the time when this happened. It was about noon and i had been fishing and running around the lake all day. no idea of the cause. my question is can i remove the sleeve and put in a new one and have it bored standard? or is the only way to remove the sleeve is to bore it out and then install the new sleeve and bore it out. as best as i can tell there is no holes or cracks in the block itself. also where might i find the correct sleeve. engine is a 2002 200L carb ser# 0t555349. thanks

[90 5.0]

You can either have a good shop look at the bore and see if it will clean up .015/.020.030 over and new Pistons or you can slap a standard bore sleeve in that hole.

Most at people like advanced sleeve the best, some have had good luck with la sleeve as well as far as who's sleeve to purchase.

Any good machine shop /motor rebuilder should be able to replace the sleeve, when the sleeve drops out look for oil on the sleeve face, this will let you know if the register is out of round and you need and oversized sleeve installed with the register bored. If not proper heat transfer might not be taking place(and could have been a reason for seizure)

[fscott1520svx]

thanks. i looked up the advance sleeves and it shows 2 sizes for my engine. one is 3.693 outside diameter and the other is 3.713 outside diameter. is the larger one just an oversize sleeve? i am just trying to determine which size to order as i figure i will need the sleeve with the block when i take it to my machinist. also can i take a puller of some kind and pull the old sleeve out with a little heat applied?

[90 5.0]

I'd dissassemble the block and take it to the machinist first and let them check if the bore will clean up, if not drop the sleeve. Heat block in an over or what ever they use and the sleeve will fall out.

Then check the register for roundness to decide if an oversized sleeve is needed or not.

Ordering a a sleeve first before seeing what you need would be a fools errand and waste shipping back and forth or even buying an unessisary sleeve if the bore will clean up.

[EuropeanAM]

I'd dissassemble the block and take it to the machinist first and let them check if the bore will clean up, if not drop the sleeve. Heat block in an over or what ever they use and the sleeve will fall out.

Then check the register for roundness to decide if an oversized sleeve is needed or not.

Ordering a a sleeve first before seeing what you need would be a fools errand and waste shipping back and forth or even buying an unessisary sleeve if the bore will clean up.

+100

And don't BORE any cylinders until you have the pistons (in hand) to measure.

[fscott1520svx]

i got the old sleeve out. dent about the size of a quarter and cracks in the cylinder wall. nothing extends all the way through though. question can i fill in the dent by welding or epoxy or jb weld and sand to original diameter then insert new sleeve?

[clayshooter100]

That sleeve needs to be replaced.

[90 5.0]

That sleeve needs to be replaced.

That's not a sleeve that's the register

to the OP

you can have it welded up and fixed but finding someone to do it right and install a new sleeve cheaper than a good 200 carb block can be found for might be a task.

[clayshooter100]

That's not a sleeve that's the register

to the OP

you can have it welded up and fixed but finding someone to do it right and install a new sleeve cheaper than a good 200 carb block can be found for might be a task.

oops! It was a long day yesterday.

[fscott1520svx]

good morning. i am finally getting the motor back together. the head for the detonted piston received some nicks due to the piston coming apart. is this head still serviceable or should i just find a replacement. thanks.

[EuropeanAM]

Some may disagree, but I would not use that head. Even if you get any impregnated hard-metal debris out of it, there will be small divots that form carbon deposits. Eventually, this carbon may glow cherry-red (and act like a glow plug)... potentially resulting in a repeat failure on that cylinder.

JMHO....

[JOE54]

JMHO....[/QUOTE]mine too

[grybrd]

On the condition of the head: those edges created by impact damage will get hotter than the surfaces they adjoin...could lead to preigniton/detonation all over again.
Ditch it.

[OldTimer57]

I'd also go over your carbs with a microscope, particularly the one feeding that cylinder. All it takes is a little running lean to start piston erosion and ultimate failure. Done it more than once over the years hot-rodding a 2.5...

[fscott1520svx]

Thank you gentleman. I did get another head in great condition and happy to say the motor is back together and running very well. I only have one issue now and it may be my own fault anyway. I discovered I had pinched the water pressure line going to the guage and it was leaking so i cut about 4 inches off the end of it to get past the little leak and reinstalled it in the back of the block. now my tell tale stream after engine warmup is not a steady stream but more of a sporadic spurt and stream. Before the blow up wot always produced a steady pressure of about 13 psi. now during break in my guage is reading 30+ psi at only 4k to 5k rpms. I had replaced the water pump and all the seals only about 4 months prior to the blow up and never had any problems so I assumed(yeah i know) it should still be fine. should i take the foot off and check it out or is there any other reason i should check first? thanks.

[EuropeanAM]

Two important items to consider on the water pressure:

1. Telltale comes from the THERMOSTATS, and will only be present when, or if the thermostats are open. It may come and go.

2. Water Pressure Gauge: Does the gauge ZERO when the key is off? If not.... toss it and install a replacement.

[90 5.0]

Wp gauges and hose are cheap replace all of it to be sure.

[fscott1520svx]

Good morning. i didn't take any chances. i replaced thermostats, wp line, poppet valve assembly and pulled the foot and installed new water pump kit and gaskets. wp normal and tell tale seems better just on the muffs. gonna water test today maybe. I discovered oil residue on the thermostats when i removed them. is it possible it was left over from the rebuild? even after the engine has been run for probably 5 to 10 hours now? if not where might oil be pushed into the water system? thanks.

[JOE54]

what lube did you use for impeller install

[fscott1520svx]

the mercury grease t4c i think it is but it wasn't much and i found the residue before i put the new impeller in. its only on the stbd thermostat which is the side that had the detonated piston and all the major work.