Was tied up w/ work last couple weeks, back at it now..
There is a lot of silicone slopped around the rub rail @ transom, up onto the gelcoat about 1/2 inch.
need to remove it as last stage of prep before starting fiberglass repairs and gelcoat restore...
It is slow going using a razor.. Any ideas to remove more easily?
Solvent maybe? Needs to be gelcoat safe.
3M Stripe Off Wheel 07498, 3/8" Mandrel, 4" Diameter x 5/8" Width, Beige (Pack of 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063VT0G..._.ZMdybSVTR459
This is what i used to remove some silicone after I did some LED lights that didnt work outlike they were supposed too. It worked great and no damage to the gel coat....it does make a lil mess with the tiny peices it shreds off
Excellent, got one on order.
I'm gonna keep at it with the razor blade and follow up w/ the wheel
Update:
24V system cables chased back
water lines figured out
All hatches removed and compartments cleaned out
got the passenger seat out without breaking things, which was almost required
Very cool, lookin good
Thanks for the update, gonna be a real looker!
_______________________________________
1997 Gambler Outlaw
Powered by Mercury
HDS 5 & HDS 7
Glowin' Thanks to Bluewater LEDs
Appreciate it man
Needs lots of work still..
Found after degreasing rear compartment the corners in the fuel tank hold are cracked..
Didnt think it needed any fiberglass work.. and its not soft under but its gonna get fixed
Fixed up & Painted the trailer, just rattle can and lots of taping to keep the pinstripes:
Silicone is taking a lot of time to remove, still fun to work on anyway
3M pinstripe wheel recommended by lilred is required equipment
Here's the before pic..
Jackplate sandblasted, gonna do the part on transom too by hand
Clear coat or leave raw aluminum?
Which would keep nicer longer, any recommendations?
I think clearcoat might peel off and raw might be more likely to discolor.
Glad the wheel helped, and if it was me I would do powder coat.....or actually hydrodip by the sponsor here K&K customs, he has awesone graphics
And just a thought but the G board would get more suggestions from G owners who have and have had that boat, and probably more responses
Avoid uncoated. Even in freshwater use, raw aluminum will corrode. You could get it clear-coat anodized if you like the plain aluminum look.Originally Posted by WantOne
Good point, I think it would show some pitting if left raw finish.
The only problem with that is I would have to remove the transom mounted brackets...
I am hesitant to mess with transom thru bolts and whatever elephant snot was used to glue the brackets to the hull
It's your boat,but I would sure remove the transom bracket to make sure it is sealed properly. Whomever sealed it might be the same one that jacked up the transom cap.
Powder coat that jackplate to match the boat !!
BULLET 20 XRD/250 Merc Sport XS
www.ncboatguy.com
Appreciate the feedback.
Red, I'll pop over by the G section for sure.. gonna keep this thread going so its all in 1 place
You make a good point Rip, .. bracket needs removed and transom inspected, regardless of cleaning it up
crank, I agree color matched jackplate would look killer if done right
Still on silicone removal for now...
Transom brackets are off, easy job. I thought they would be glued on
More silicone underneath...
It was well sealed though which is the upside to silicone covering everything I guess
An update:
Silicone around transom rub rail removed -
All deck hardware removed in preparation for cut and buff
Good to know that stuff works in case someone needs it
Decals removed except signature decals, will have to work around them
New factory decals arrived Silver/Black same as original
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