There used to be a guy on this site that would rebuild them. Mine had the same problem. I sent my cylinder and bracket to him for a rebuild. He told me that Teleflex only wanted trained techs rebuilding these cylinders and brackets which makes sense to me. He replaced the bushings and rebuild the cylinder and i have been running fine since. I have replaced the seals on the end of mine prior to sending him the entire unit.
I have seen 5345 cylinders with less then a 100hrs on them with worn out bushings. They are not adequate for 250proxs applications. The 6345 has keys in the end of the shaft and heavier duty bushings. The Uflex is another option but I have no experience with them. I would recommend new vs rebuild and definitely do not modify these yourself. I have dissembled and studied several 5345 cylinders trust me they are not as simple as they appear.
I have the 5345 on my 225 merc. It has a tad bit of play when moving it up and down. Is that normal? This thread got me thinking I should check it.
Triton 19 XS Elite, 225 Mercury Pro XS, Minn Kota Ultrex 112, Hydrowave H2, Twin 8' Power Pole Blades, Power Pole CHARGE, Lowrance HDS 12 and 16 at console, Lowrance HDS 9, Garmin LiveScope at bow, Mercmonitor, Rigid Industries Deck lights and other stuff to come that will make me go more broke
I replaced mine with the UFLEX this week.
Glad I looked at this thread. Had some questions of my own. My '08 Bullet 300xs came with a Sea Star Pro HC6345. It's been flawless. No problems yet, and hopefully the mods on mine keeps it working good for a long time. Granted, my 300 only has 197hrs on it and that's from the day they put it on in '08. I seen one said a key and heavier bushings, what the total modifications? And why on some and not all? You'd think the upgrade would be better in the long run for everyone.
2008 BULLET 21XD 2007 Merc 300xs
tighten the plastic piece that has the allen head screws in it. that will take the slack out.
2020 Ranger Z519 | 2020 Mercury Pro XS 225 4S | Helix 10SI | Helix 10 MDI G3N | Helix 10 MDI G3N | Noco GENIUS 10X4
Fury 3 22P True Pitched | Power Pole Pro 2's | Ghost TM | Mega 360 | MEGA LIVE | Atlas 8in Jack Plate | Trick Step | 3X Amped 80ah Lithiums
Smart move.Originally Posted by nightbasser
Proud Army Dad
The gap you are seeing is from wear on the composite inserts between the RAM and upper bracket. On mine the distance was not bad enough to send in so just added correct shim and all is good.
The 6345 was not always available and came to be after the issue or excessive play began to expose itself.
For anyone searching this problem. I fixed mine with a C-Clip. I believe I had to go with a 7/16 for proper fit.You can take them apart and put a Machine washer in the gap but a C-Clip required no disassembly.
Great idea ! Thanks, Mine also has play in it. I will use these clips!
For anyone searching this problem. I fixed mine with a C-Clip. I believe I had to go with a 7/16 for proper fit.You can take them apart and put a Machine washer in the gap but a C-Clip required no disassembly.
Well, as long as they don't cause excessive wear from the edges, or fall out.
Just an FYI, I found that the 1/2" clip fits the best.
If they fall out, your back to square one...big deal. As long as they are in there, there is really nothing to wear out because there is no excessive movement. It sure beats buying a new cylinder at $700.
My Seastar has a slight leak on the port side. I just noticed it one day this week. I'm leaving tomorrow for a week long trip and taking the boat, am I safe until I get back and get it fixed?
I'd be a little more careful with a leak. If you run out of fluid, you're SOL.
I say leak but there is no oil collected anywhere, just a bead that hangs on the bottom of the cylinder and the rod is a little oily. So I'm guessing it needs a new seal correct?
You have to have new ones made, bushing.Sea star will not sell replace parts that I could find.
I had a similar issue but no slack issue in the pivot arm. Sea star cylinder HC5345 steering a 225 hp Evinrude etec on a 2006 Ranger Z20. What happen was, I was coasting along, On Mille lacs lake thru some 3 foot waves slowly no faster than 30 mph heading back to the boat landing which was 2 mile away. All of a sudden my boat slammed to the right and I tried to counter steer and I had no steering. I let off my hot foot and the boat slowed down and I was slammed by a wave with water coming over. Scared the crap out of me. My girl friend just closed her eyes in freight. I checked the steering and noticed 1 bolt came out with the sleeve on the starboard side and the pivot arm ripped away from the bolt and sleeve on the port side thus leaving the pivot arm completely removed from the cylinder. I had to use string to tie the pivot arm to the cylinder to limp us back to the landing 2 miles away. The pivot arm and cylinder are still good after inspecting everything. Just need 1 bolt and sleeve for the starboard side. I bolted the other side back in place and seems to hold OK. Cant believe it came loose and completely off. Now I dont trust this design. Sea star says I cant buy bolts and sleeves thus having me to spend 600.00 for a new cylinder and pivotarm. Im gonna look into something more reliable. Like the Uflex Im hearing. What you guys think of this situation. Just imagine if I was running WOT. Scary feeling.
Last edited by wilds; 08-08-2018 at 12:48 PM.
2006 Ranger Z20
2011 225hp Evinrude ETEC H.O.
26p Raker II SS prop
HDS9 gen2 at bow and HDS16 carbon on a precision sonar console bracket.
Units linked into outboard interface.
Precision sonar gauge relocation kit.
2) 8' power pole blades
101 lb 36v minn kota fortrex
Bob's 10" hydraulic jack plate
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