How can I rig things so that when I crank the motor, my electronics don't power off? Ive got 2 trolling batteries as well as the cranking one but everything is running on the cranking. Do I need a bigger battery or am I missing a switch or something that will keep them on?
Time for a battery upgrade, IMO. Check into a group 31 AGM as a solution.
Or you can add a deep cycle battery just for the console and electronics leaving the cranking duties to a battery suited for just starting the engine .
Run your electronics straight to cranking battery with at least 16 gauge wire or bigger. Or mount a dedicated fuse panel for electronics only
I'm thinking that I may move everything to one of the TM batteries. I have a 24v system but they are jumpers at the plug so I'm guessing I can pull 12v off of just 1. Currently we are doing family boating and don't even have the TM on the boat so it should be a big deal.
So is it that my cranking battery is too weak or the size or is it bad practice to run the house off of the cranking battery?
[QUOTE=ntslam;7480750]Run your electronics straight to cranking battery with at least 16 gauge wire or bigger. Or mount a dedicated fuse panel for electronics only
This!! I had a 1995 BassCat with this problem. I ran a 12/2 SO cord from the battery to the console where it was connected to a terminal strip and jumped to a similar strip at the bow. I also placed a switch in the circuit so I could turn off all the electronics separately from the rest of the boat electrical and installed an inline fuse near the battery. In these older boats, the many electrical connections under the dash tend to build up corrosion causing a voltage drop in the circuit.
I try to drive as if my 16 year old Grandson is following me
Speak as if he is listening and act as if he is watching
Right now I have the electronics hooked up to the accessories switch under the dash and use a common neutral connection. I'll try running a new pair and tying them in to the ACC switch.
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