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  1. #1
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    2015 Puma FTD setup

    Friend has a new to him 2015 Puma FTD, Merc 250 ProXS, 26P Fury, 8" manual slidemaster JP. Experiencing cavitation between holeshot and getting on plane. He's needing a start point on the plate and wondering what seems the best place to start regarding height.

  2. Member Blevins's Avatar
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    #2
    Are u talking about the prop blowing out some as you crest over? If so mine does it as well and was told by bass cat this was normal for these hulls to do it just a little when setup to run fast anyways. Mine runs 82 and change with 2 of us loaded and over 83 with just me. A lot of the fast hulls will blow out a little on hole shot it seems... of course depending on what prop and how high you are running it. My prop to pad with a gen 2 TM lower and a 26 fury is 2.25inch below pad. U can try running deeper every boat and weight/load will be different. I tried my 4 blade 28 bravo on my Cougar FTD and it didn't blow out but for a split second but i also didn't have it high enough to run like it could on top end either....
    2015 Bass Cat Cougar FTD Mercury 250 PRO XS
    Blevins Tuning
    S&S Marine

  3. Member HSVBCB's Avatar
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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by ajwasco View Post
    Friend has a new to him 2015 Puma FTD, Merc 250 ProXS, 26P Fury, 8" manual slidemaster JP. Experiencing cavitation between holeshot and getting on plane. He's needing a start point on the plate and wondering what seems the best place to start regarding height.
    Tony
    Typically BCB sets the plates flush (in the front). That will put you anywhere between 3-3.5" below pad if I remember correctly. However, before you start moving the plate, you need to ask if he is satisfied with performance at WOT. Prior owner may already have it set up, or had prop worked, etc. Chase top end first then address holeshot with PVS plugs, not the other way around. Remember this is a Gen 2 TM lower unit as well. Best is to check for slight steering torque at WOT with good WP. If too much torque, lower in 1/8" increments. If that is where he wants it, then address blow out with PVS plugs. Fury's normally run best with no plugs, but since he's blowing out to get on pad, plate is probably high but again, that may be what is needed for best top end. Also best to chase all of this with tournament load (fuel, tackle, live wells, etc) to get best overall performance.

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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by HSVBCB View Post
    Tony
    Typically BCB sets the plates flush (in the front). That will put you anywhere between 3-3.5" below pad if I remember correctly. However, before you start moving the plate, you need to ask if he is satisfied with performance at WOT. Prior owner may already have it set up, or had prop worked, etc. Chase top end first then address holeshot with PVS plugs, not the other way around. Remember this is a Gen 2 TM lower unit as well. Best is to check for slight steering torque at WOT with good WP. If too much torque, lower in 1/8" increments. If that is where he wants it, then address blow out with PVS plugs. Fury's normally run best with no plugs, but since he's blowing out to get on pad, plate is probably high but again, that may be what is needed for best top end. Also best to chase all of this with tournament load (fuel, tackle, live wells, etc) to get best overall performance.
    You know this was posted for your bro!!!

  5. Member HSVBCB's Avatar
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by ajwasco View Post
    You know this was posted for your bro!!!
    yep, sent him the article below right when he got the boat...best advice on setup and driving a BCB hull. Different than other brands and this 250 on Puma FTD is a different animal than the P2 he had. Just needs to read the article, setup paragraph simplifies it and the rest is seat time. I haven't driven it, but it is blowing out a bit vs just needing to be feathered on break over. If he's happy with WOT just start with a single plug and drill a hole in the plug if its too much. You know the deal. I was surprised it had a 25P Fury vs a 26P since he doesn't have Power Poles.

    http://basscatowners.yuku.com/topic/...e#.Vw1S7WPIzzI

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    #6
    Think he has a 26P. He's going to measure Prop to pad and see where it is and go from there. He'll get it.

  7. Member Blevins's Avatar
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    #7
    If i set my manual slide master jack plate flush as previously stated by HCVBCB i end up at 2.5 below pad. I have the gen 2 lower unit and they like to be ran higher then the gen 1.
    Last edited by Blevins; 04-13-2016 at 09:24 PM.
    2015 Bass Cat Cougar FTD Mercury 250 PRO XS
    Blevins Tuning
    S&S Marine

  8. Problem Child Ckfishin's Avatar
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    #8
    I was told all the new cats with the gen 2 tm. It's just the design all you do is ease out for a split second and it will bite and get gone.
    2019 BassCat Lynx 2019 250 Pro XS 4 Stroke - 2B573410
    "Reality Is Often Disappointing."

  9. Member Blevins's Avatar
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Ckfishin View Post
    I was told all the new cats with the gen 2 tm. It's just the design all you do is ease out for a split second and it will bite and get gone.
    You are correct. Same thing i was told by Bass Cat and also same thing mine does. Even when it slips some as u crest over on a hole shot, it never stops accelerating! :)
    2015 Bass Cat Cougar FTD Mercury 250 PRO XS
    Blevins Tuning
    S&S Marine

  10. BBC SPONSOR Bass Cat Boats's Avatar
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    #10
    You can not un the Gen 2 case higher than it did before safely.

  11. Member Blevins's Avatar
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    #11
    Well sounds like there is all kinds of mis information out there then. I've read multiple times where guys say they have to run them higher then the gen 1s. But then again its the internet..... LOL

    SO what is the safety concern? Blowing out or losing bite in a turn or??? What would be unsafe about running it higher if your speeds are increasing and your good on water pressure etc
    2015 Bass Cat Cougar FTD Mercury 250 PRO XS
    Blevins Tuning
    S&S Marine