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  1. Member SoonerFan's Avatar
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    #41
    But the thing is, I didn't pump any grease at all from August through to April when I discovered the water in the hub. That was the first time I had the rubber cap off. At that time I reached around and sure enough I felt the grease coming through the inner seal. Both times there's been a seal failure,it's been on the right side. I still haven't pumped grease on the left side and when I replaced the bearings, the left side looked just fine. Both wheels have traveled the same distance but only one have blown two seals.

    You may may be right about the sleeve but it sure feels and sounds like solid steel...and remember the grease port is in that section of the spindle. Bob G. tells me that his Triton came with wear sleeve that is made to be changed periodically....if I understood what he was telling me.

    i tell you what. First thing next week i will call Tie Down and ask if they put a replaceable sleeve on their spindles. If they do I will buy you the best barbecue lunch in OKC the next time you come to town.

    BTW, That red metal seal in the picture is just like the one that I had instant failure with. The grease did blow right through it.
    Don't worry Ma'am....
    I'm only here for the
    Bass.

  2. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #42
    I really like the concept -- just think it puts a lot of pressure on that seal to use it as a back stop while forcing grease through the bearings..
    It is odd that the same one has had issues twice. It is highly possible that either the spindle or the hub is not 100% true and is causing the seal to start leaking.
    Your right the red one is NOT a good seal--- that whole box is my ( broke down on road ) emergency kit...
    Next time I'm in OKC we can meet at the BPS and I'll buy .
    Good luck and keep us posted -- that's why were here to help..

  3. Member Jeff Hahn's Avatar
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    #43
    FYIW, when I had those plastic seals on my Lund trailer, I had to use Permatex on the lip of them when installing a new seal and let them sit overnight before I could pump any grease in. If I tried to pump grease right after installing a new seal, the pressure would pop that seal right out of the hub. That's one of the many reasons I switched to a metal seal with a double rubber lip.
    "The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments

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    #44
    I just LOVE this thread. Sounds like two BBC'ers are gonna have lunch. Undoubtedly if you pump grease in, it has to go somewhere. After all, it's just Physics. A lot of factors at play here. Keep it up.

  5. Member SoonerFan's Avatar
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    #45
    With a heavy heart, I write the following words .....

    You guys were right and I was wrong. Looks like I owe Mike some BBQ.

    I talked to TDE and there is in fact a wear sleeve that is OEM on that spindle. They gave me the part number which is the same as the link that Bob gave me. Also, here is the service bulletin on how to do it. http://www.tiedown.com/pdf/b942.pdf

    Here's more questions..... How do I get the hole in it...in the precise spot for the grease port? Any ideas on that? It does not come predrilled.

    Interestingly, the tech folks at TDE first suggested that the brake caliper was dragging and over heating the hub thus causing the grease seal failure. The brakes are not dragging and the wheels are cool after a 100 mile tow.
    Don't worry Ma'am....
    I'm only here for the
    Bass.

  6. Member Bob G.'s Avatar
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    #46
    Quote Originally Posted by SoonerFan View Post
    With a heavy heart, I write the following words .....

    You guys were right and I was wrong. Looks like I owe Mike some BBQ.

    I talked to TDE and there is in fact a wear sleeve that is OEM on that spindle. They gave me the part number which is the same as the link that Bob gave me. Also, here is the service bulletin on how to do it. http://www.tiedown.com/pdf/b942.pdf

    Here's more questions..... How do I get the hole in it...in the precise spot for the grease port? Any ideas on that? It does not come predrilled.

    Interestingly, the tech folks at TDE first suggested that the brake caliper was dragging and over heating the hub thus causing the grease seal failure. The brakes are not dragging and the wheels are cool after a 100 mile tow.
    I looked around TDE's website......not very helpful. Your spindle is similar to the ones on my utility trailer. The only wear ring I have found with a hole in it is at Waymire's. I can't find any reference to the part number listed on the website or the size. I have bought the ones without the hole for my Triton's trailer and they are 1.68 OD. I installed the wear ring on one of my Triton's trailer last year (UFP hubs/spindles). My oil bath hub was leaking and I converted it to grease. I used an old inner bearing and a piece of PVC to install. I replaced the o-ring that was under the wear ring and also used some red high temp permatex on the spindle before installing the wear ring (info I found on this forum). I have the same link that you posted for installing wear rings when I was researching this last year.

    Link for Waymire's. See page 9, part # 33517U.

    http://www.waymires.com/catalog/newc...p_products.pdf

    Here is a link to questions I asked about my utility trailer. I didn't get much help. My little rubber cap on my bearing protector says Posi Lube and they are similar to your spindles.

    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread....hlight=utility

    I hope you get it all figured out.
    2006 Triton TR-21 XD, Mercury 225 Pro XS, S/N 1B287870

  7. Member SoonerFan's Avatar
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    #47
    This is the part that TDE told me I needed and the dimensions are right on. http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/p-2...-tie-down.aspx I just think it's going to be a tricky hole to drill with noting more than a Ryobi drill. There isn't much info on the internet at all about wear sleeves. I did find this...http://www.thehulltruth.com/trucks-t...llation.html#b. Interesting but not really relevant to my situation.

    Maybe this grease vent hole won't be such a problem once I get the hub off and give it a look see.
    Don't worry Ma'am....
    I'm only here for the
    Bass.

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    #48
    I've got the TDE hubs on my 04 trailer, when pumping grease in the axle grease zerk it's a good idea to spin the hub/tire as you grease and use a hand gun,go slow,(don't use a electric gun they pump to fast)this keeps the pressure down on the rear seal, I've been flushing my bearings once a year this way and have never had problems.

  9. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #49
    That hole could be tricky. My only suggestion would be to get some calipers and find some way to make some precise measurements with marks before seating the new sleeve.. Then use a hole punch to mark before drilling.. I bet you can get close enough to make it work.
    My next question without seeing the hole -- Surely it's far enough in front of your rear seal that it's not what's causing your seal failure..
    Good Luck.. Keep us posted.

    Next Time I head East on I-40 maybe we can hook up ! I do love good BBQ .

  10. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #50
    Another thing you could do -- after removing the old sleeve cut in half or less too where you could use the hole part as a template. be sure to make some good marks to line it back up..... Then mark your new hole.

  11. Member SoonerFan's Avatar
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    #51
    Quote Originally Posted by fishnfireman View Post
    Another thing you could do -- after removing the old sleeve cut in half or less too where you could use the hole part as a template. be sure to make some good marks to line it back up..... Then mark your new hole.
    That's a good idea.

    It it sure makes me nervous cutting into the spindle like that in my garage. Everything I've done so far has been something that if I got in over my head, I could put back together and take it to an expert. If I screw that spindle up, I suspect it will be impossible to get the hub back on to be able to get it to a shop. I do have a cheap but adequate digital caliper that should be of help.

    Anybody familar with the installation tool that is mentioned in the instructions? I've never seen one of those at Harbor Freight. I'm guessing a pipe with a little over 1 ¾ " ID would work?

    What at ever I do, I need to do quick because its starting to throw grease again. That's after only two 180 mile round trips to the lake. It's not bad yet, I'm just starting to see flecks of fresh grease on the inside of the wheel. The left side is still clean and dry since last summer.

    Oh yeah Mike, the hole is more towards the outer edge of the seal shoulder. BBQ sounds good, maybe even wet a line.
    Last edited by SoonerFan; 05-01-2016 at 01:13 PM.
    Don't worry Ma'am....
    I'm only here for the
    Bass.

  12. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #52
    I have removed a sleeve without cutting it... Took a good heat gun to it and it popped off with two screw drivers one on top one on bottom. Worth a try-- might even get it off without heat just take your time.


    The pipe trick for seating the new one will work.. That's the only way I have done it.. Did not know they had a special tool until now.

  13. Member SoonerFan's Avatar
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    #53
    I was thinking that this could be the excuse I need to buy an angle grinder.
    Don't worry Ma'am....
    I'm only here for the
    Bass.

  14. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #54
    A dremmel with a cutoff wheel would be easier to control for that close of tolerance's -- especially for old eyes like mine LOL ..

  15. Member SoonerFan's Avatar
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    #55
    Quote Originally Posted by fishnfireman View Post
    A dremmel with a cutoff wheel would be easier to control for that close of tolerance's -- especially for old eyes like mine LOL ..
    Good advice and I already have one of those.
    Don't worry Ma'am....
    I'm only here for the
    Bass.

  16. Member Bob G.'s Avatar
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    #56
    I installed a wear ring last year with an old inner bearing and a piece of PVC pipe with a cap on it. I installed a new o-ring and put some red high temp RTV on the spindle where the wear ring sits before installing.
    2006 Triton TR-21 XD, Mercury 225 Pro XS, S/N 1B287870

  17. Member
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    #57
    Those black plastic coated seals are garbage. Hot garbage. As others stated, they don't sit tightly in the hubs. Swap for the other type.

    Also, are you jumping curbs while making a right hand turn? This could be why too.....

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    #58
    Oh yeah, don't forget to lube the new seal and wear surface. If put together dry, the seal will fry.

  19. Member SoonerFan's Avatar
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    #59
    I'm bumping this thread so maybe someone with a similar problem will get some good advice. Took a long time to search it out. I have been whistling in the dark about this problem for over a year. I've had it apart a couple of times and it's getting worse and have now decided it's time to change out the wear sleeve...that I was so convinced I didn't have. After reviewing this thread, I feel confidant that I can do this without screwing it up (too bad ).

    Also, still haven't paid off my bet to Fishnfireman for a BBQ lunch in OKC, I'm ready anytime.
    Don't worry Ma'am....
    I'm only here for the
    Bass.

  20. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #60

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