I have just wrapped up outfitting my new 2016 Ranger RT188 and kept a photo journal of all the additions and changes I made to suit my needs and preferences. I had 10 weeks to plan and purchase items for the boat since I ordered it, and had most everything sitting in the garage waiting when the boat arrived.
Boat as delivered on the day I picked it up.
Barely fits in the garage with only inches to spare.
Have to show my pride of ownership.
Last edited by Skeeterbait; 07-03-2017 at 07:28 AM.
Attwood storage and travel cover for the engine cowling. I do not trailer with a boat cover on and just need a light dust cover for the boat in the garage.A Ranger factory cover would have never fit once I added my tall electronics and taller pedestals.So I just bought a light cover from Attwood for a larger fiberglass boat.It worked out acceptable.
Registration numbers from Iguana Grafix.
All Aboard ladder. I replaced the starboard mount bolts with longer bolts and replaced the brass nuts, torqueing them to 90 ft. lbs.Then I attached the ladder to the excess bolt length and attached with another set of brass nuts, torqueing them to 50 ft. lbs.This way the engine mounting is not reliant on the integrity of the ladder mount to remain properly torqued to Mercury specs. This is easy to do, just replace one bolt at a time and you never completely unbolt the engine on the side so no engine support needed.
Shortened the hand rail on the bow ladder by 10”. As it was, on the lowest setting it barely cleared my garage opening. You can still raise it to the factory designated heights but it stores shorter.
Last edited by Skeeterbait; 07-03-2017 at 07:38 AM.
Added a coupler keyed lock pin.
Never liked cables, they add nothing to security even if padlocked because they are easily cut. I removed them and added hardened security chain with large stainless padlocks to make sure the trailer stays with the truck.They are attached with a hardened security bolt and tamper resistant stainless cone nut with hex nut for backup.Both are Red Locktite’ed on.
Modified the tongue pin to accept a pad lock. Prevents someone from being a jerk and taking the pin at the landing.
Factory supplied jack is junk. Replaced it with a big wheel Fulton XLT jack that has a ball bearing swivel on the caster and grease zerks.Much easier to maneuver.Did require elongation of the pin hole for folding out of the way.
Reversed the swing tongue. It hits the trailer steps when swing to starboard.This way it swings back further giving a couple inches more clearance.
Replaced all lug nuts with Gorilla stainless open end security lug nuts. Even placed one on the spare.
Homemade trailer guides made from fiberglass driveway markers and stainless trucker CB antenna mounts. These make backing an empty trailer easier as well as giving a reference on final approach when loading the boat that you are centered up on the trailer.
Last edited by Skeeterbait; 07-03-2017 at 07:46 AM.
Bass Cat aluminum battery trays for group 31 size batteries. These are critical for getting 3 group 31 batteries into the boat because their mounting screws are inside the trays, not outside.You need every last bit of space available.Yes that is a sheet of ¾ birch cabinet plywood under the trays.I know it is heresy to put wood in a Ranger but here it makes sense. It helps insulate the batteries from cold metal of the boat in winter, and it makes positioning the trays easier.
Three big Exide XMC-31 group 31 AGM dual purpose batteries installed. It’s a tight fit.
Adjustable pneumatic pedestals. I have both a folding and stand up seat for the front.
Last edited by Skeeterbait; 07-03-2017 at 07:52 AM.
Telescoping push pole and boat hook with hold down clips. Here it can be reached from front deck, rear deck, or passenger running seat.
Telescoping landing net fits into the gap between passenger running seat and gunnel.
My answer for the front deck step. I wanted to be able to move the step around or stow it. Can also place it in the middle to be a bridge from the front deck to the livewell and rear deck.
Ruler mounted under the livewell lid.
Smartcraft MercMonitor level 1 gauge with water pressure sensor kit installed in the console dash. With the hydraulic jack plate, some form of water pressure gauge is a must.
Last edited by Skeeterbait; 07-03-2017 at 07:59 AM.
GearTrac rails installed fore and aft on each side of the gunnels.
Cisco rail mounts with Driftmaster rod holders installed. Changed out the bolts to match the rails.
King Pin anchor pole mounts installed on Cisco rail mounts.
Last edited by Skeeterbait; 07-03-2017 at 08:05 AM.
Anchor poles purchased as components from Max Gain Systems and self-assembled. This allowed me to make three piece poles made up of four foot sections.Can be used as 8' or 12' poles.This allows the poles to be stored in a double 52” shotgun sleeve and to be stored under the running seats.The shotgun sleeve keeps them from rolling around and making noise, and the other side of the sleeve stores my paddle attachment and running lights.The rear running light did have to be shortened 12”.
Digital volt meter installed to allow me to keep track of the state of charge on the trolling batteries thru the day.
The wife’s favorite accessory fits under her console. She has a black poncho in the glove box.
Last edited by Skeeterbait; 07-03-2017 at 08:14 AM.
Console and bow plotters installed on 12” BalZout mounts. Since I am tall I can see over the console plotter fine and the height allows it to be set more square with the dash.I did need to shim between the arm of the mount and the gunnel with a piece of ¼” dense rubber.Since the side panel of the boat is removable and not welded into place, it allowed a bit of flex.But the shim completely took the flex out.The bow plotter gets its GPS and transducer information from the console plotter via Ethernet network.
A cut off screw driver makes a much better BalZout adjustment tool.
Heading sense GPS antenna mounted on the rear deck in order for it to be in close proximity to the transducers for waypoint accuracy.
Last edited by Skeeterbait; 07-03-2017 at 08:22 AM.
Plotters powered from a Blue Seas fuse block directly mounted to the cranking battery.
Alumaducer 200kHz transducer mounted to the hull in the bilge. I ran a transducer extension cable from the console plotter to the bilge area and using an AS-SIDB-Y splitter cable, can connect both transducers in the bilge making it un-necessary to re-pull cable to the plotter in the event a faulty transducer has to be replaced.
HDSI transducer installed on a custom cut HDPE mounting board on the transom. Since I am using a shoot thru the hull transducer for sonar and on plane readings, the HDSI transducer can be mounted up from the bottom of the boat giving it a bit more protection.
Since the TH Marine Micro Jacker is not gauge compatible, a simple waterproof sticker I printed will serve as an indicator of jack height. Ranger mounted the jack to the boat in the second hole from the top and the engine to the jack in the second hole from the top.This gives a range of prop shaft 2 inches below hull at the highest setting and 7 inches below hull at the lowest setting.I would have preferred they mounted the engine one hole higher but either way it covers the normal operational range needed.I have found on this jack I will have to grease the guide bolts periodically to prevent squeal.A little dab of waterproof synthetic grease makes it work much smoother.
Low cost solutions to a couple things I see as oversight on the part of Ranger with the livewell recirculation option. Addition of a TH Marine 1 1/8 inch push in drain screen and quick disconnects and a piece of hose to pump water from the well out the overflow drain using the recirculation setting.
Bimini top added.
Last edited by Skeeterbait; 07-03-2017 at 09:00 AM.
Finally, ready for a day on the water.
Bumpers to keep the side compartment lids from sitting against the gunnels and making impressions in the carpet.
This spot just begged for something. Added a saddle bag to hold my clear and tinted safety glasses for running as well as my cleaning supplies and navigation chart software for the electronics.
My solution for launching alone. Back the boat till it floats then let this strap hold the boat while removing the winch strap and climbing aboard. Once aboard, release the strap.
A little bling to finish out the consoles.
Picked up some Rod Gloves.
And a banner for the garage.
E-Z Slide trailer pads. These make loading and unloading solo much easier and do not require the trailer to be quite as deep.
Last edited by Skeeterbait; 07-03-2017 at 09:21 AM.
Very nice job enjoy your new fishing machine
RT188 Camo 115 Yamha SHO
Wow that looks amazing, quite a lot of awesome upgrades and they all look really well done! Have fun on the water!
Hands down the best aluminum boat setup I have seen. Well thought out and executed. You can tell a lot of time went into this project.
----------------------------
The bitterness of poor quality is remembered
long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten - Benjamin Franklin
2013 RANGER RT188 - YAMAHA F115 - ULTREX - LOWRANCE GRAPHS
LOCK-N-HAUL Transom Saver, ALL ABOARD Emergency Ladder
1996 RANGER CHEROKEE - 40 YAMAHA
Simply Perfect! Great job.
Have an adventure everyday !
2006 PT 175 TX 60 HP.
Fantastic set up. You did a great job with that. I know you have to be proud of that boat!
Saweet
2013 Pre-Johnny Ranger RT 178
115 PRO XS
Due to the increase of ammunition prices... There will be no warning shots
Honda certified Master technician 33 Years
Very nice. Considering one of these myself if I cant wait on the 198 lol. Cant wait to hear some numbers on how this setup runs for you with the plate and X7 that Ive been hearing about.
I do have a general question for those who may know. I see many guys putting the GPS pucks on their boats. My question,being a noob about units with navigation,is why do you install one? My understanding is the new units have GPS recievers in the units themselves??
The answer to your question has multiple parts.
1, The external puck often gets better reception of satellite signals.
2, The puck can be placed closer to the transducer for waypoint accuracy. If you see a specific structure feature and mark it from the bow, the structure is actually under the transducer but with the GPS antenna in the bow plotter you will have a boat length error in the waypoint.
3, This puck is a heading sense puck meaning it has a compass in it. The plotter can only determine the direction the boat is pointed if the boat is moving around 5 mph or more. When not moving, it replaces the boat icon with a circle and you can't look at the plotter and know which direction a waypoint is relative to the boat. With the HS puck, the compass tells the plotter which direction the boat is pointed even when setting still. This combined with setting chart orientation to "Head UP" keeps the chart on the plotter turned in the direction the boat is pointing even when setting still. So if the plotter says a waypoint is off to starboard 90 degrees it truly is.
Congrats man I know you have been patiently waiting!!
A well thought out and excellent job!
Reply With Quote
