Cap separating from hull in rear

[AZ Intimidator]

The top cap is separating from the hull right above the jack plate in the back of the boat. Theres a ½" gap and I can press down on the top cap and the two side come together, I let off it pops right back apart. Just happened today at the lake. Someone said it happens alot to boats and all you have to do is remove the motor weight and compress the two sides back together and re-fasten. Sounds easy but im guessing its alot more complicated. Does anyone have experience with this or know what I should do? The nearest Gambler dealer is 500 miles away in California so unless is something fairly simple, I dont trust the local boys with my baby. Help!!

[stickbaitAZ]

sorry to hear of that bro, hopefully it won't be to big of a fix

[Intimidator1]

I have a 94 with the same thing going on. I dont think you have to remove the motor. That transom is solid as a rock and isnt moving. I think its just the rivets coming loose for some reason. I will redo mine this winter,and all you should have to do is remove the rubrail at the rear,and redo the rivets on both the top cap and the aluminum rail. It should tighten it back up. You might have to move the rivet locations if they are oversized from movement.

[Gambler250XB]

I had mine fixed pretty much the same way Lee was talking about. Pull the rub rail, pop in some rivets, seal everything with silicone.

[99intimidator]

I HAD A WATER LEAK ON MY 99 INTIMIDATOR FROM THE TOP CAP IN THE REAR OF THE BOAT. I FOUND OUT GAMBLER HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE EPOXY THEY USED FROM 96 TO 98. LUCKY ME MY BOAT WAS BUILT IN 98. A FIBERGLASS REPAIR SHOP REMOVED THE RAIL CLEANED OUT ALL THE OLD EPOXY AND REGLUED IT.

[sueybass]

My 95 done the same thing. Didnt find out until it was too late. Was doing some night fishing and was anchored out, went to the back to hook up some lights and stepped in 6 in iof water in the cockpit. Pulled anchors and by that time the whole boat was swamped. Had to run it up on shore, wasnt ready to test the floatation. We done the same thing listed above, pulled the rail and re-riveted with silicone. Boat always leaked, doesn't leak a DROP now.

I suggest fixing it before you go back out to avoid an experience like I had.

[99intimidator]

The exopy holds the cap to the hull the silcone just seals it off . I bought mine used and somebody resealed just the silcone. It started leaking again .Replacing the exopy and resealing is the best way to go.

[Coxwain]

I did a reseal on a 1984 Ranger 350v. The previous owner or someone did it witch silicon that had failed. I would think you need something flexible as these two pieces of the boat come together and will need to handle some movement. I think epoxy will break off if the boat flexes out.

I also washed the fiberglass surface with alcohol 90% to make sure I had a clean surface.

I don't know why this isn't talked about more. Any boat over 20 years old should have this done. It will keep your boat dry. It was a little tedious removing the rub rail and the rope, also a number of the screws werre bent and have been replaced. It cost me less than $100 to do all the work myself.


I replaced with Sikaflex 291. Similar properties to the 3m 4200

https://usa.sika.com/dms/getdocument...x291LOT-us.pdf

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/8...ant-4200fc.pdf