Ranger RT188... running wire at driver's seat

[Skeeterbait]

So looking at my boat Saturday, I asked my salesman how their techs run wire through the side of the boat at the cockpit area. I have read several comments here about removing the cup holder, removing the engine controls, etc. He shows me where the side panel at the drivers seat is seamed at the seat and seamed at the console. he also shows me where there are screws buried in the carpet on the flat top of the carpeted panel, two at the seat and two at the console, and said you will find more screws at the bottom of the panel. Once removed, he said the panel can be pulled away from the side of the boat allowing you to see behind the panel.

Is this new for 2016? I haven't heard this mentioned before.

[cdemarse]

When I ran all the wires for my Lowrance units all I had to remove was the cup holder. The tube runs from the back of the boat till just before the back of the seats. When you remove the cup holder its easier to fish the wire through the rest of the way. Under the dash You can see where all the wires go into the side wall. I found it easier to grab the new wires if you take the 4 screws out of the protective ring and slide it up the wiring. As always its easier with 2 people. plenty of room though. I have sonar, structure scan, nmea, and have plenty of room left for when I run the point 1 antenna.

What are you going to run?

[Skeeterbait]

Well I will be installing all my electronics since I already have them, a Pair of Humminbird 1199's on Balzout mounts, one beside console and one at bow. I just had never hear anyone mention the fact that the entire side panel can be detached.

[mrc.in.wi]

If you have a wire runner just use that. Remove the TM recess pedal 6 screws and it pops out. Then you can see all the way up to front of storage locker. Run the wire runner from under console to bow and pull wires back through. Easy as pie.

[GWDawg1]

On the 2015 models, just under the console the wiring harness exits toward the console. I removed the cupholder, and used a fish tape to run my wires, then fed them through the wiring harness exit and now I am installing a network switch under the console to connect it all together. If anyone needs help, just let me know. I should be finished with my install today, Helix 12 at the console, Helix 10 at the bow, and a Terrova with iPilot link, all networked using the Humminbird 5 port switch.

[TritonTRXV8]

Well I will be installing all my electronics since I already have them, a Pair of Humminbird 1199's on Balzout mounts, one beside console and one at bow. I just had never hear anyone mention the fact that the entire side panel can be detached.

When i looked at my cousins the panel looked removable you could see the edge of it. If you really wanted open access it may help some but seems like most are able to do it without. May be easier to hide wiring back there etc with it pulled out tho idk.

[Sbp]

You will not have an issue with just taking the cup holder out getting to the back. Another tip is if you have an old transducer you will not be using tie TWO lengths of string to one end and pull that through. Tie one to your new transducer and now you have a spare ran for the next time you need to pull a wire.

[Bosh]

If you end up needing to remove the drivers side panel it's pretty easy. I just installed a new Garmin 73SV in the dash and opened up the side panel some to make the install easier.
Didn't need to remove the engine controls for what I was doing.
I did end up needing to take out the drivers console mounting bolts so I could slide the console out of the way to get the front corner of the panel loose. No big deal.

[Sr20steve]

I just had to replace my skimmer transducer for the total scan transducer on my 2017 RT188, and let me tell you it aint is easy as everyone says, lol. I had to pull my seats out and take the access panel that has the throttle control on just to access all the zip ties that were put on at the factory. And there isn't much room to fit through at the rear wiring harness and also under the console at the through panel grommet. There was about a million zip ties to cut one all those were out of the way it was pretty easy. But took me a while to figure out why I was getting hung up. FWIW I used a fish tape taped to the old transducer wiring then dragged the new wiring back through.

[Ranger RT]

The side panel where the controls are is removable ......but going from the cup holder to the console wiring boot is the easiest way for me...

[fishon396]

There is a lot of room under the tray for the trolling motor foot control

[Sr20steve]

The side panel where the controls are is removable ......but going from the cup holder to the console wiring boot is the easiest way for me...

Taking off the throttle control did nothing for me, and also removing the cup holder. The factory zip ties were deep on the wiring harness. Don't ask me why they did that. I just finished doing my install and the hardest part was putting the seat back on the boat. You have no idea where the holes are to screw in the bench seat. I had to center the seat where I wanted it and re drill the holes and screw into those (I'm positive thats what Ranger did, there was tons of aluminum shavings throughout the boat, even left over screws that the tech left).