Only reason I dug up this old thread is because members brought up valid questions about trailer tires that I still can't find answers to this day. I'm tire/wheel shopping, looking for 17's from stock 14's, would LOVE to find some bullet wheels, or aftermarket rims like them. Still searching. I'd also like to find out how these old users faired with their lower profile light truck/suv tires on their trailers?
Lol, I meant to comment on the OP's question about tire air pressures since there clearly are people that have questions; the best air pressure for your bass boat should fall close to the tire's recommended MAX air pressure but not exceed it, but the perfect air pressure is different for every application. You can determine what's the basic correct pressure for your vehicle or trailer by using chalk across your tread and rolling your rig on flat surface, like level concrete. The proper air pressure uses the entire contact patch of your flat tread and wears the tread evenly across it.
Picture that your tire IS like a balloon, and if you're overinflated for your load, the tire tread will be bulging TALLER in the center and lower at the edges. In this situation, you'll be loading, and wearing the CENTER tread more than the edges. If you're underinflated, then the tire carcass will be LOWER in the center tread, because, like when you see someone driving on a flat tire, they're often riding way past the edges of the flat contact patch and wearing the sidewalls of the tire. In prolonged underinflation you'll see the edges of the tread worn thinner and the center of the tire tread will not be worn as much. Underinflation also creates a dangerous situation where the tread fibers move in ways they were not designed, which creates HEAT, and destroys the tire from the inside-out.
So test your favorite air pressure on your tires by taking that chalk, and make your tread chalky-white across your entire contact patch. Now roll your rig backwards and forwards on that level concrete surface, very slowly, no hard braking or accelerating, and check to see what chalk is left. Obviously, if you have too much air there will be white chalk left on the edges and the center chalk will be gone, and clearly you aren't using the entire flat contact patch efficiently. If you wore off all the chalk, there's a chance you're underinflated, so increase your air pressure a few lbs at a time until you're over inflated, then back off until you're using the entire tread surface. This is your best air pressure for a given day, temp, altitude, etc. If your tires are correct for your application, you should be at or below the max recommended cold air pressure on the sidewall of the tire. Since speed will make the tire taller in the middle, you're usually fine with that air number because the moving weight of your boat on it's suspension will push down further on the tire than it's static weight and hopefully balance it out.
So you can see that this number will change with the weight you're carrying. In a sports car you can change the tire pressure to change the handling; reduce understeer or create oversteer. With our trailers we want the air pressure number that wears your tread evenly across the contact patch, so keep an eye on your treadwear pattern to get the best and safest use of your tires.