Battery Jump Start Switch

[BassStriker]

Well, I think I'm gonna give the new battery a shot this coming season.

[Savage]

Well, I think I'm gonna give the new battery a shot this coming season.

Very smart solving the root cause, instead of a work around remedy to the real issue.

[JerseyBasser]

Savage,
Should my cranking battery last through this setup. Two graphs, live well and here is the main reason, I will troll for sometimes 3-5 hours before starting the big engine when I'm pounding the banks/docks. Should my battery last for that long?

I run 3 graphs and went to 2 starting batteries ran in series just to be safe because I had issues with the cranking battery at times and they were brand new..

[Savage]

I run 3 graphs and went to 2 starting batteries ran in series just to be safe because I had issues with the cranking battery at times and they were brand new..

Me too, but I just use ONE properly sized battery. Saves space and weight.

[BassStriker]

Well, I was thinking of going to a group 31... thinking http://www.samsclub.com/sams/duracel...uestid=3200474

Jersey Basser what size batteries are you running in series? I currently have a interstate and I think its 650 CCA so I'm thinking Savage has a point with moving up to a 1000 + CCA and all the run time details that goes along with a group 31.

[limit5bass]

https://www.batteriesplus.com/produc...ls/sli31agmdpm

[Fishing_Fool_NC]

I'm running the Lowrance 9" and 12" Gen II Touch screens along with the livewells that most everyone else has on a April 2013 XS and 250 Pro XS from the factory. After the group 27 or 29 battery (don't remember which) failed to crank the motor at the end of a tourney as a replacement did also, I changed to a group 31 Deka listed on the 3.0 Mercury board as an approved battery. (Find the list under the pinned item "FAQ".) Don't know if the 9 & 12 draws any more power than others but someone on the electronics board can probably tell you....but don't get me wrong....I like my Lowrances! The Deka Sea Mate/Intimidator 8A31DTM came from BatteriesPlus under the name Magna Force in Oct 2014 and haven't had a failure since. FYI....Deka is manufactured by East Penn who has a facility in Winston Salem, NC who I talked to. My local club tourneys are sometimes 9 1/2 hours and recently when I cranked up...........the engine started but my 12 touch in the dash went black for a second and then reloaded the charts and was just fine. So I'm going to have the TournamentSaverpro installed this week when I have my 100 hour service done just for insurance. One of my friends with a 520 Ranger has had the Ranger switch installed even though he has a group 31 Deka battery as well. Hope this info helps. No pro here...just a retired guy who likes to fish!!

[mdtritn21]

That is a deep cycle battery isn't it? DTM means deep trolling motor and 8 means 800 cca. It doesn't have enough reserve capacity to run your electronics and then start your boat. You need at least the 9A31 Deka battery which is a start battery and has more cca 925 which is still at the lower end of what you need. Look for one that has at least 1000 cca like the one listed above SLI31AGMDPM.

[cdevette]

I dont know guys....I have a new group 31 interstate and I have issue sometimes when I stay in one area for a whole tourney. 2- hds 10s, hds 5, two live wells (on timers). My battery struggles to start. That's a lot to ask of a battery for 9 hours I don't care what type of "starting battery" you have (unless its a DC).

[Fishing_Fool_NC]

Guess we all have to do what we think best regardless of all the advice we get!! And I'm sure everyone intends to be helpful. But Greg mounted my TournamentSaver.pro in the bilge and put the switch right beside my smartcraft gauge which is above the keybox. I've got the push button start. Looks great and you won't even recognize that it's a switch. So now there shouldn't be any worries about a 27 or 31 or 8 or 9!!! He also put on one of the new trolling motor ropes.....a cable enclosed in plastic.........the old one went in the locker for a spare but don't think I'll ever need it!! Did the 100 hour service, etc........Carolina Coach and Marine, Claremont, NC.........bought the boat there because of the service manager and haven't been disappointed!

[Carlos H]

Here's where I am after some more research.................
A person I know has just installed the Ranger switch in his 520 Ranger(not a C), and a homemade template indicates that the angle of the corners of the rear lockers are the same between both brands of boats as well as the height (1 3/8") of the lip on the locker and the thickness (1/8") of the fiberglass. My conclusion is that the Ranger switch will physically bolt up to the corner in my Triton locker. According to him, he says that he ordered the switch to fit his 520 and assumes the difference of switches between models may be the length of the wires that come with the switch...it appears the length of his wires are sufficient for my 20XS. Sounds reasonable as I'm not sure they would use different gauge wires on different boat lengths or size motors...just my opinion though. He did the installation and now some speeds on the trolling motor that makes interference on his bow Lowrance when he uses his trolling motor. He assumes one of the battery switch wires is too close to the rear transducer cable and so has rerouted some cables, but water is too high to put it on the water to confirm.

Thanks everybody for your help...going to order the tournament saver pro also Striker.....hopefully will reduce the chance of any interference per their Q&A on the website.

as a FYI, you can order a 24v or 36v setup. The length of the wires is the only thing that is different (36v shorter 24v longer)

[chris.york09]

I have a PM-1 In my boat and even it gets a little tired after running all that crap all day in the GA heat of summer. Instead of burning the money on a tournament saver I just wired up starter solenoid to a push button at the dash ground the starting batt to the trolling then your positives to the solenoid. Then presto with a push of a button you connect the trolling batt to the starting battery and away you go.

[Rkammer]

I have a PM-1 In my boat and even it gets a little tired after running all that crap all day in the GA heat of summer. Instead of burning the money on a tournament saver I just wired up starter solenoid to a push button at the dash ground the starting batt to the trolling then your positives to the solenoid. Then presto with a push of a button you connect the trolling batt to the starting battery and away you go.

This is a great money saving option that works. The ground wire from the low side trolling motor battery to the negative side of the starter battery stays connected all the time. So, the relay wiring is simple.

[RazorCat]

I installed the exact switch Ranger uses, and used their diagram for the most part. Ordered pre-made cables on line. I installed mine on the seat post using a pre-cut piece of Starboard for easy access in my boat. If you need more infor, let me know, and I’ll look up the vendors I used.
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[CaymasMan250]

Tournament Saver pro.

[Rkammer]

I installed the exact switch Ranger uses, and used their diagram for the most part. Ordered pre-made cables on line. I installed mine on the seat post using a pre-cut piece of Starboard for easy access in my boat. If you need more infor, let me know, and I’ll look up the vendors I used.
5E6294C2-8C89-4492-BB4E-72CE5FA5C75E.jpeg 5F2393FB-B79E-434B-A5F6-7F2583AF618C.jpeg
http://a64.tinypic.com/2meb8fm.jpg
http://a65.tinypic.com/9zpmc8.jpg
http://a67.tinypic.com/v7tued.jpg
http://a63.tinypic.com/2qv8504.jpg
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I noticed on the second diagram for the 24 volt trolling motor and Yamaha outboard, that it shows the negative contact for the outboard coming from the negative contact of the "high side" battery of the 24 volt pair. I've always seen in other applications that the negative side (ground) of the outboard should come from the "low side" battery which makes ground the same for the trolling motor, accessories, and the outboard. Can you explain where this diagram comes from and why it's different from others others like this one:

perko-dual-battery-switch-wiring-diagram-l-1e22ad71455122f2.gif

[stein3411]

If I had one of these systems and had to use it one time, the next day I would buy a new start battery, because the start battery should have lasted all day. If you need one of these systems then your start battery is NOT sufficient.

I have custom cables that I made to jump the start battery, but they are only for a emergency, that should only occur once every 4-5 years.

I agree with Savage. I've been fishing tournaments for 34 years and I've only had to jump my cranking battery once. This was done with a short set of custom jumper cables I made and carry in the boat. I guess I'm just lucky!

[RazorCat]

I noticed on the second diagram for the 24 volt trolling motor and Yamaha outboard, that it shows the negative contact for the outboard coming from the negative contact of the "high side" battery of the 24 volt pair. I've always seen in other applications that the negative side (ground) of the outboard should come from the "low side" battery which makes ground the same for the trolling motor, accessories, and the outboard. Can you explain where this diagram comes from and why it's different from others others like this one:

perko-dual-battery-switch-wiring-diagram-l-1e22ad71455122f2.gif

I used the Ranger diagram. Shouldn’t have included the other. Sorry. It’s wrong.
Mr. Jones at Jone’s TM gave me some stellar advice on connecting it properly when I was setting it up.
I have a 24 volt system. I connected the + cable from the jumper switch (Batt 2 terminal) to the + terminal on the battery without the direct wire to the TM plug. I connected the - (ground) cable from the same battery to the - on the cranking battery.
I’ve tested it a few times by switching to Batt 2 and Batt 1&2, and it worked perfectly. No signs of electrolysis which can be present if hooked up incorrectly.
Again, sorry for the incorrect diagram. That’s one of two for a Yamaha OB. Posted the wrong one.

[Mike2718]

Savage is SO RIGHT about the battery but I did have to use a jump switch once. I didn't have access to power one time so I couldn't charge my battery overnight and by the end of the next day I had to jump my system. I really DON'T recommend the "Ranger" switch system. I have seen cases of electrolysis even when the switch was installed "correctly". When you share a common ground from the trolling battery to the charging battery, there is potential for electrolysis even when the switch is wired correctly. I installed a system using 2 switches similar to the battery selector switches except these switches just have 2 settings: On & Off and NOT the switches that have 1-2-both-off settings. Here is a link to what used.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DUUL9W...ding=UTF8&th=1
I don't remember where I bought them but you can find them all over the internet. I ran a cable from the negative of one of the trolling batteries to the switch and another cable from the switch to the negative cranking battery. I then ran a cable from the positive of the same trolling battery to the 2nd switch then another cable from the switch to the cranking battery. I used 4 gauge cables for the connections. This COMPLETELY isolates the trolling and cranking batteries from each other eliminating the chance for electrolysis. BE SURE TO USE THE TROLLING BATTERY THAT IS CONNECTED TO THE NEGATIVE LEAD COMING FROM THE TROLLING MOTOR. If you don't use that battery, you could cause damage to the electrical system of the motor. I mounted the switches to a piece of "cutting board" then mounted that to the lip of my battery compartment. If you need to jump the battery, TURN ON THE NEGATIVE SWITCH 1st, then turn on the Positive switch. The "correct" procedure to jump a vehicle is to connect the Positive leads 1st but with an outboard you want to have your negative(ground) switch turned on first before turning on your positive switch. Once you get your motor started, cut off the positive switch first then cutoff the negative switch. I painted my switches Red and Black so it's easy to see which one is which. I've only had to use it once but it worked perfectly and took less than a minute to jump the motor.