I had this same problem, chased it just as you...turned out to be a bad power pack. switch pack concen went away, switch back to old pack did same thang again. Put new pack on and its been fine since....Id find a friend and try his power pack only takes a minute to switch out.
2006 RANGER 519VX
200HP MERCURY OPTI-MAX
Sole member of " THE FISHERMEN FOR LIFE" a fisherman that knows one can make the difference!!
I originally thought it may be a power pack problem because it disappears when once the motor is hot. I've had inconsistent ohm readings when testing it in the past. If I knew someone with a spare I would definitely like to try it but I haven't wanted to drop the money on a new power pack just to see if it fixed the problem.Originally Posted by Frank A
For grins swap around the wire stack on the starter solenoid.
Are you going to test the wires on the shift interrupter to make sure the diode is in the correct wire? You could just disconnect the connectors and eliminate the switch from the circuit. Then try the boat out.
I will try this. The lake is flooded here and the ramps suck right now so I haven't had a chance to get out the last few days.Are you going to test the wires on the shift interrupter to make sure the diode is in the correct wire? You could just disconnect the connectors and eliminate the switch from the circuit. Then try the boat out.
I took the boat out and disconnected the shift interruptor switch and the key would not turn off the motor nor would the safety lanyard. I plugged the interruptor switch back in and shut the motor off. I swapped the leads around just to see what would happen and the motor would not shut off again I have a quick disconnect wired in for testing purposes which is how I swapped the leads. With the leads swapped the wrong way I turn off the ignition switch and the motor still runs. I can engage the shift interrupt and the motor will shut off.
I believe you have a bad power pack, with the interrupter switch leads reversed it is allowing the key switch to kill the cylinders, so I would think that the key switch is OK. With the interrupter switch leads in the correct position the blocking diode is not allowing the key switch to kill the cylinders. This points to a bad power pack.
Is there anyway to verify that it's the power pack. I don't care to buy one if I knew it would fix it. I'm in the process of trying to sell the boat and want it to be good when I sell it but also don't want to waste unnecessary money
When a motor will not shut off, first you test the stop circuit, which includes the kill switch and the key switch. If the stop circuit checks out OK then it is the power pack. I don't know of any way to test the power pack other than this. This is the procedure to follow in the service manual. The stop circuit wiring goes to one side of the pack and grounds out all cylinders, the interrupter switch wiring goes to the other side of the pack and grounds out selected cylinders, in your case enough to stop the motor.
I found out that the diode was in the wrong wire on the shift interruptor. I switched it to the correct side and now the motor will not cut off with the key switch. I tested the switch the best that I could and have concluded that it seems to be working correctly. I do get the back /yellow wire at the motor is going to ground when the switch is in the off position or the lanyard is pulled. However since a switch is much cheaper than the power pack I'm going to go ahead a replace it jus t to make sure. I should have the switch tomorrow and hope that it will make a difference however I doubt that it will.
i looked up the power pack for my motor and there seems to be two. Blue and Gray. I think I have a blue one however I think the one I have is made by CDI. What is the difference between them?
Last edited by hlewis12; 05-02-2017 at 07:31 PM.
Do yourself a favor and get the oem one....
:thumb up2 Yep bad pack. The J150GLET suffix R motors use the BRP pack with the blue sleeve. Get what ever pack you want to, it's not my motor.
Well I went all out and replaced the power pack with anew OEM unit. I fired it up on a hose in the yard and everything seemed great except when I went to shut the motor off it still continued to run. I pulled the safety switch and it still ran. I suppose I'm going to get a new ignition switch tomorrow. I'm not sure if it would cut out with the trim still because I haven't had a chance to run it in the water.
Well I replaced the ignition switch and the motor still does not shut off when turning it to the off position. Nor does it turn off when pulling the safety lanyard. It does however kill half of the engine when the safety lanyardis pulled. I traced and ohmed out the wires back to the boat side of the red plug. Everything seemed as if it were correct. I checked the motor side of the red plug black/yellow stripe wire to the plug that goes into the power pack and it ohmed out fine
i can get the motor to shut shut off when I put the key in the off position and push in the shift interruptor switch. I'm kind of at a loss here.
What do you mean it "Ohms out" fine? (0 ohms?)
Your boat could be different... but, I thought all safety lanyards were connected to the same yellow-black that leads to the key switch. Basically just a jumper between them. Therefore, they are one in the same. Meaning the boat should NOT act any different whether the lanyard is pulled vs the key switch is turned. Yours is different? Can you trace your yellow-black off your lanyard? It should go to the Key Switch. Sounds like your lanyard yellow-black is connecting to the Power-Pack where your shift Switch should be or you have what I had.
I recently had many of the same issues that you have. I didn't have the trim problem but, I did have the Frankenstein motor that wouldn't turn off. I'm going to try to link a video from YouTube that I made. At the :44 sec mark you can hear me turn the key switch off and it drops 3 cyl's. I continue to toggle it on and off until the power finally blew for one bank.
The shut off problem is a bad connection with your yellow-blacks and possibly wires mixed. I found a bad wire going into one of my black boots on the motor side under the power-pack. I assumed all that was good. Until I ran a full continuity check on the entire kill circuit. With these connectors you could have and intermittent connection and never know it. Go through all those wires and make sure you have a connection internally in those boots. Even when you moved the boots around.
Does your boat have the Key Switch built into the throttle assembly? Or is it separate?
Last edited by ggodwin; 05-10-2017 at 11:38 PM.
Tell you what Heath, PM me your home address and I'll send you out a properly working shift interrupt switch. I don't think you should have ever screwed with that blocking diode. GGodwin, it doesn't matter if the ignition switch is built into the remote control or separate, they are all wired the same way.
The key switch and the shift interrupter switch ground connections are different. The shift switch ground is at the regulator, so it works, the key switch ground is located elsewhere. If you had properly tested the stop circuit you possibly would have found that the key switch M terminal is not grounded. Chase this down, with the remote switch it should be easy to do.
Or get a spark tester, unplug all the spark plugs and the port side wiring harness on the top of the pack and test for spark. If it returns your kill circuit is bad.
I think he has spark, the motor runs, it wont turn off. Sounds to me like the key switch is not grounded.
Hell I've read it fifteen times and it seems to change every time I read it. One time I read it if he keeps the key in the cranking position it will stay running but once he lets go it dies..Then spark 1/2 side then no spark. Everything worked great until he changed batteries then it went to hell in a hand basket. Maybe a wise idea to try a different battery.
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