The bow fish finder is cutting out due to the voltage drop when starting the motor. look for a wiring issue, to small a gauge wire or connection issue.
The bow fish finder is cutting out due to the voltage drop when starting the motor. look for a wiring issue, to small a gauge wire or connection issue.
1996 STRATOS 278 V
1996 Intruder 150 HP
Model 150GLEDB Serial # 04148601
1991 335195 Heads
FICHT Reed Cages
Chris Carson Carbon Fiber Reeds
Large Bore Carbs
Prop Mark Croxton A45 15" X 23 Tempest
Props Owned/Tested: 23 Renegade, 23 Renegade B&B, 22 Raker, 24 Raker, 24 Raker B&B, 26 Raker, 26 Raker II, 24 Raker II, 23 Tempest, 24 Tempest, 24 Fury, 24 Trophy, 25 Renegade, 27 Renegade, 23 Razor 3.
I need to reopen this issue. When I first take theboat out and trim up on initial takeoff the motor drops back in rpms when the trim lever is pressed. It does this on trim up and down. As soon as I let off the button everything goes back to normal. I have 14 v at idle and the tach is workIng fine. When I activate the trim it drops to around 12.4v. I don't think it's the regulator or stator. I just recently changed to a new battery.
Heres the kicker. After I stop and fish for a while and let the motor set I fire back up and the rest of the day everything works perfectly fine. It only does it on a cold motor.
Ive checked and rechecked connections. I'm starting to think about replacing the power pack but it's just a swag. All suggestions are greatly appreciated. I'm trying to sell the boat and have someone who has looked at it twice and wants to buy it if I can get this problem fixed.
I reiterate....you have a dead short....either in the shift handle or somewhere in the harness.....Did you ever try a new battery?
Yes I tried a new battery. It's on there now. With a dead short wouldn't it be present all the time? How much should the voltage drop when using the trim?
Let's try this. When was the boat last run? If it has been a few days. Then lets put a meter on the battery. It should be around 12.8Volts DC. Now start the motor and observe the volt meter, is should be on the increase and level off somewhere in the 14 Volt range. Now use the trim switch on the MOTOR not on the throttle and see what the reading is. It should drop some but not below 12.4 VDC. Operate it up/down. If all is well move the the throttle/shift handle and do the same and observe the meter. If there is a significant difference there is an issue in the switch or harness in the handle. You can go as far as disconnecting the trim harness at the motor from the boat side if you wish. If the results are the same from both trim station then the issue is with your trim motor.
Did you correct the issue with the graph powering off when the motor is started? Or should we wait until the trim issue is fixed?
It was ran today. The voltage is 12.7 when it's sitting. The voltage is 14 while running. When I hit the trim switch at both the motor and on the handle and the blinker trim it drops to around 12.5 to 12.3. The issue with the graph was fixed by running a wire for it straight to the battery.
Give it a try in the AM after it has sit overnight. Then once the testing cold is complete, run the motor and check it after it has been run awhile. Power pack will not be the issue.
I tried this yesterday. It seems no matter what switch I use the voltage drops to about 12.4-12.5 volts. This is true when I first put the boat in the water and take off for the first time as well as after I've been fishing for a while and the motor is hot. It still only cuts out when the motor is cold. Once I take off and run it for a few minutes and then stop to fish for a bit the next time and the rest of the day on the water everything works exactly the way its supposed to.Originally Posted by ChampioNman
I disconnected all the grounds that I could find on the motor and on the battery sanded them real nice and shiny and reconnected everything hoping it helped and of course it didn't. Is there anything to check on the trim motor itselF?
Yes the graph issue was fixed. I ran power straight to the battery.
Last edited by hlewis12; 04-12-2017 at 01:15 PM.
Does the motor cut out when you trim up or down while still on the trailer?
At low RPM it does not cut out. While idling on the trailer and out of the no wake zone I can trim up and down with no problems at all. I only notice it when trying to plane off at WOT. At one time I thought maybe it had something to do with putting the motor on the transom saver while on the trailer and I thought that if I trimmed all the way up and all the way down a couple of times before taking off for the first time that the motor would not cut out. Lately this has not been successful. Is it possible the fluid in the trim system needs to be bled or something?
Where is the ground to the trim motor connected to the motor?
It is attached at the trim motor where it mounts to the assembly.
OK, why don't we look at the control cables at the motor. Are the trunnion nuts held tight in the linkage, so they can't move when you hammer down to full throttle. What I'm thinking is maybe something is moving or not adjusted properly and the shift interrupter switch some how is being activated, and then returning to the correct position and not causing a problem the rest of the day. Is the switch mounted tight and in the right position? If you back off the trailer while still in Quikstart mode is it hard to shift if not maybe the switch is doing it's job and not turning completely off which would cause an idle issue. I don't know if I'm explaining my thoughts very good. That's the mechanical side, we also could have a bad diode in the switch harness, maybe next time out disconnect the interrupter switch, just let the motor warm up until the Quikstart turns off before shifting. This might be way out in left field but I have found the problem out there before.
I did have to replace the shift interruptor switch and I did have problems with the boat after replacing it. I think initially when I put the new switch in that the quick disconnects were wired backwards so when I went to shut the motor off with the key the motor would continue running. I switched the quick disconnects and everything seemed to work as normal. I do not remember the timeline of when I starting having this problem and changing out the shift interruptor. In fact I can't even remember for sure why I changed it out. I believe it was because the plunger would not on the switch would not pop back out.
You nailed exactly what what it feels like when the motor cuts back when trimming. It feels like the shift interruptor is being pressed. I have tried it with the shift interruptor popped loose so the linkage would not hit it and had the same results.
Could you explain how you switched the quick disconnects? Do you have the external control box? This only happens at full throttle and at other throttle positions you don't notice the problem? Still only happening with a cold motor?
The switch should not have caused the problem with the motor not stopping, it's not wired in to do that. By switching the leads you moved the blocking diode into the wrong side of the harness which would allow any kind of a problem in the negative circuit to activate the switch circuit and kill some cylinders. The motor not stopping can be caused by a bad power pack or a problem in the stop circuit, which includes the ignition switch. With the other problems you've had, my gut feeling is problems with the ignition switch.
Last edited by 316jughead; 04-17-2017 at 10:11 AM.
I took the boat out on Thursday afternoon. It was the hottest it has been lately ~82* and I had no problems with the trim switch causing the motor to cut back. One thing that I did notice on Thursday is that the motor did not seem to go into quick start/fast idle the first time I cranked it up. It could have been because it was so hot out and maybe it just didn't idle as long as it normally does.
I switched the leads on the by cutting the quick disconnects off and resoldering them back on. I think that I ended up changing them back but I can't remember for sure. No I do not have an external control box. I think it mainly does it at wide open throttle. I can't say for sure that if I went like 50% throttle that I would notice it. However I can say that I do not notice it at idle. Is there any way to check which way is correct with the diode?
The bands of the diode will/should be facing the power pack. Check it with an ohm meter you should only get continuity one way if it is working properly.
The blocking diode is in the lead that connects to the wiring harness not the lead that connects to the power pack. I have a 1993 shift interrupter switch complete with the harness. On this one the lead that connects to the harness is shorter and is the female or covered connector. If this helps you any, the diode must not be in the lead that goes to the power pack. If you did change the connectors you must change them back the way the factory had them. You could remove the sheathing and find which lead has the diode, it probably is very small.
Last edited by 316jughead; 04-18-2017 at 05:53 AM.
Would it make sense that if I put weight on the motor while trimming it up while in the parking lot before launching that the motor wouldn't cut out? I did it two times ago and didn't have any problems the first time. The last time I took it out I didn't do it in the parking lot and started to take off and the motor cut out. I immediately stopp and went back and put all of my weight on the motor and trimmed it up and took off with no problems for the rest of the day. Does this make any sense at all?
Nope.
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