27p Bravo 1 XS on a Phoenix 920/Verado 250 pro

[npark]

My favorite spot to put the ballast was around the consoles on the loaner Chris. Seemed to help the chine he most per lbs of ballast, not hurt the hole shot but also not penalize top end through too much positive trim...although all boats are different and Chub and you know what you are talking about.

Foils are a good idea for sure Greg, also heard styrofoam sheets work in the JP, still have block them off but you also won't have a proverbially drift sock in that JP if you block it off too.

[RISE]

the slide master and bobs hydraulic plate i ran was wide enough to drill and tap for 1/4" so thats what i did. what ever size you use, make sure to put loctite on the bolts. i drilled straight up from bottom on mine and straight down from top

[RISE]

My favorite spot to put the ballast was around the consoles on the loaner Chris. Seemed to help the chine he most per lbs of ballast, not hurt the hole shot but also not penalize top end through too much positive trim...although all boats are different and Chub and you know what you are talking about.

Foils are a good idea for sure Greg, also heard styrofoam sheets work in the JP, still have block them off but you also won't have a proverbially drift sock in that JP if you block it off too.

On my way to pick up some stainless hardware and loctite! How much weight do you recommend I start with in rod lockers in front of consoles? I've also got a passenger side rod box that would be great to add weight to on the port side of the cockpit.

[cbailey]

your right nate, every boat is different and some setups is personal preference.

[cbailey]

i cant tell you that because im not running a phoenix. thats something you gonna have to experiment with. i run 180lbs of batterys, oil tank, trim pump and 50 extra lbs of shot on the port side. im 235lbs. the level trick we talked about earlier will give you the starting point you are looking far.

On my way to pick up some stainless hardware and loctite! How much weight do you recommend I start with in rod lockers in front of consoles? I've also got a passenger side rod box that would be great to add weight to on the port side of the cockpit.

[npark]

Hard to say how much you will need Greg, it is a bit of an experiment. You need to go out with a 3/4 tank of gas, your normal load and just run it all morning when the conditions are nice...no fishing lol. I will say this, you don't need as much weight when you put it forward. Chris is right though, if your boat has a hard time carrying the Bow then it can slow you down...depends if you are looking for best overall setup or absolute top speed. 25lbs up front can act like 50 when placed in the rear as far as ballasting goes but also help you get on plane quicker as opposed to placing it in the stern...just don't go too far forward or you can blow your prop out. You will find the placement that gives you the setup you are comfortable most with if you put time into this. Based on what you said about your holeshot I t seems like holeshot is an important factor to you so, if it was my boat I'd start with 25 lbs in the rear most portion of the port side box, and 50 lbs around the console (again port side)...placing the weight as far to the port side as possible. Then have another 50 lbs (2x25) with you in the center that you can move around until you find the balance point where the boat wants to drive straight. As a note if you end up having to put either of the 25 pounders on the starboard side then next time you go out take that amount of weight out of the port side (so you not running excessive weight) or if you are happy with your holeshot you can move some of the port side weight further back towards the stern as that will eliminate some of the added leverage. Keep in mind the harder you push it the more balance will play a factor, partly because you you are riding further and further back on the pad but also because the prop torque will lift the port side more and more. As a point of reference, when Chris was helping me as I was making my way out of the 80s and into the 90s and I had to add an additional 25 lbs when I bumped from low 90s to mid to high 90s.

Congrats on the new boat, have fun, be safe (wear your life jacket) and report back!! Don't forget to consider raising the engine that extra hole after you verify WP, that helped my boat when I did that too.

[2500]

You need to run a 26 Bravo 1 FS or you can try XS. I think the FS is better for your setup. Try to stay 62-6300 rpms

[RISE]

i cant tell you that because im not running a phoenix. thats something you gonna have to experiment with. i run 180lbs of batterys, oil tank, trim pump and 50 extra lbs of shot on the port side. im 235lbs. the level trick we talked about earlier will give you the starting point you are looking far.

Great, thanks for all of this info guys. I'm sure I will have lots more questions as I move forward. Finishing up hole shot plate and I just happen to have a stash of 25 pound lead bricks that I can take out with me next time and move around the boat. I wouldn't be surprised if adding that port side weight helps the chine a bit. I will keep you posted. Again, I can't thank you all enough for everything.

[RISE]

Best overall setup is the smarter way to go, but you guys know how addicting every ounce of speed can be. It's a tough choice and I'd like to think there is a way to get the best of both worlds. My head is telling me I need weight on the port side to the rear of the boat and that the motor has go to come up one hole to allow for more adjustment out of the JP. Fine tuning and a lot of patience are obviously important here as you guys are telling me. With that in mind, I will start making the changes as I go from here, and let you guys know what I come up with

Hard to say how much you will need Greg, it is a bit of an experiment. You need to go out with a 3/4 tank of gas, your normal load and just run it all morning when the conditions are nice...no fishing lol. I will say this, you don't need as much weight when you put it forward. Chris is right though, if your boat has a hard time carrying the Bow then it can slow you down...depends if you are looking for best overall setup or absolute top speed. 25lbs up front can act like 50 when placed in the rear as far as ballasting goes but also help you get on plane quicker as opposed to placing it in the stern...just don't go too far forward or you can blow your prop out. You will find the placement that gives you the setup you are comfortable most with if you put time into this. Based on what you said about your holeshot I t seems like holeshot is an important factor to you so, if it was my boat I'd start with 25 lbs in the rear most portion of the port side box, and 50 lbs around the console (again port side)...placing the weight as far to the port side as possible. Then have another 50 lbs (2x25) with you in the center that you can move around until you find the balance point where the boat wants to drive straight. As a note if you end up having to put either of the 25 pounders on the starboard side then next time you go out take that amount of weight out of the port side (so you not running excessive weight) or if you are happy with your holeshot you can move some of the port side weight further back towards the stern as that will eliminate some of the added leverage. Keep in mind the harder you push it the more balance will play a factor, partly because you you are riding further and further back on the pad but also because the prop torque will lift the port side more and more. As a point of reference, when Chris was helping me as I was making my way out of the 80s and into the 90s and I had to add an additional 25 lbs when I bumped from low 90s to mid to high 90s.

Congrats on the new boat, have fun, be safe (wear your life jacket) and report back!! Don't forget to consider raising the engine that extra hole after you verify WP, that helped my boat when I did that too.

[RISE]

You need to run a 26 Bravo 1 FS or you can try XS. I think the FS is better for your setup. Try to stay 62-6300 rpms

Thanks Jeff,
I think I will be ordering a Bravo as well to have during all this testing. One more variable can't hurt right?

[2500]

Thanks Jeff,
I think I will be ordering a Bravo as well to have during all this testing. One more variable can't hurt right?

Everyone I've ever done is some what it's on deal. No 2 are alike but close. On the Verado Pro to much exhaust can hamper the hole shot. It needs some back pressure in hole shot. Also try to mash into the hole shot, not flatfoot the hole shot. For some reason the Vrods like to spool up. I have seen on a Z521C 26 Bravo 1. 26 pitch 4 medium PVS plugs. Also mash into foot throttle not stomp it. Just also remember that the steering is more or less don't imput and hold wheel or move it. It's not like sea star. Just move and release wheel you will learn to feel it and drive it. Takes some time. I had to learn it too. I came from a Bullet and it was fairly easy to keep up on pad. The Vrods are some what different, just as it needs to be corrected release wheel this holds pressure against opposite movement. Very good steering in the motor, it takes time. Less wheel movement once you learn the hull

[RISE]

Everyone I've ever done is some what it's on deal. No 2 are alike but close. On the Verado Pro to much exhaust can hamper the hole shot. It needs some back pressure in hole shot. Also try to mash into the hole shot, not flatfoot the hole shot. For some reason the Vrods like to spool up. I have seen on a Z521C 26 Bravo 1. 26 pitch 4 medium PVS plugs. Also mash into foot throttle not stomp it. Just also remember that the steering is more or less don't imput and hold wheel or move it. It's not like sea star. Just move and release wheel you will learn to feel it and drive it. Takes some time. I had to learn it too. I came from a Bullet and it was fairly easy to keep up on pad. The Vrods are some what different, just as it needs to be corrected release wheel this holds pressure against opposite movement. Very good steering in the motor, it takes time. Less wheel movement once you learn the hull

I've noticed the same with the throttle, doesn't want to be floored...ease into it. So, if I order a bravo1 XS, get the new one with the extra set of pvs holes and use plugs as needed I'm assuming. What do you like about the FS over the XS and vice-versa?

[EuropeanAM]

You need to run a 26 Bravo 1 FS or you can try XS. I think the FS is better for your setup. Try to stay 62-6300 rpms

+1

Really need that setup to run 6200 with two persons, fully loaded.

Fury will work, but may not be the "best" choice for your setup.

If it were mine, I'd see if someone I knew had a 25 or 26P Bravo-1 they would let me try.

BTW... kickballs or basketballs work quite well in the jackplate. Lower in the plate is better (just leave the fill ports facing up where they are ACCESSIBLE, in case they have to be removed for jackplate servicing and/or regulator TORQUE checks of engine/plate hardware.

[2500]

XS or FS is good. I like FS. XS has the 8 PVS holes and blades are cut a tad different. FS has 4 PVS holes. Both have shorter barrels and smaller tail flair. I just prefer the FS as my boat didn't need a bunch of exhaust release

[EuropeanAM]

According to Mercury, the XS and the FS are EXACTLY the same prop (only difference being the DUAL PVS openings on the XS).

[RISE]

According to Mercury, the XS and the FS are EXACTLY the same prop (only difference being the DUAL PVS openings on the XS).

Sooo, go with the XS and plug holes as needed would be my guess. I'm also assuming that I should go with a 26p and have cup added if needed?...or do they make a 26.5? Just got back from running her for a few hours with the B&B 25p Fury. Added the hole shot plate as suggested by Mr. Bailey and it helped just a bit but still not great and I'm up at 18 on JP gauge to get out of hole in a decent amount of time and that's also where it likes to run at WOT for best top end.(Still think my motor is mounted too low) Also as suggested, I added 50lbs of lead brick to port side rod locker, shifted some tackle backwards and filled port side live well up half way. This gave me my best results of the day and helped tame the chine enough for me to get my best run, which was 75.3 @ 6345 RPMs and 22-ish on WP. I would think that I could get more out of this rig...what next?

[npark]

Hey good results for step one and the first attempt, good feedback too!!

Sounds like the engine definitely needs to come up, you still have a lot of water pressure. The disclaimer is, when you raise it don't go sky high first shot out as typically when you start getting to the limit it falls like a rock.

Now that you've established ballasting helped your chine walk, I'd personally like you to try adding additional ballast through ways other than the livewell for several reasons; 1) you can be more discriminant with the placement completely on port side not just port of center 2) you can prolly use less weight this way 3) you can move it forward to aid with holeshot and 4) it is fixed and not sloshing around.

How much water do you think it was in the livewell? However much, figure out the weight and use a fixed ballast of that weight and place it around the passenger console. Did you notice you had to run extra positive trim? Almost sounds like you were since you ran the same speed as before but at a higher rpm. What did you rooster tail look like? Btw when you ran the 75.3 what were the conditions? Are you now able to make an extended run without the chine walk or just touching the 75 range?

[2500]

26 XS for your setup. My Atlas is in 3rd hole from top and motor in 3rd hole from top.
Again you sound like you need more height so I'd mount in 3rd hole on Atlas and 4th hole on engine.
That's good with a 920 and yes more some more is there.

[RISE]

Hey good results for step one and the first attempt, good feedback too!!

Sounds like the engine definitely needs to come up, you still have a lot of water pressure. The disclaimer is, when you raise it don't go sky high first shot out as typically when you start getting to the limit it falls like a rock.

Now that you've established ballasting helped your chine walk, I'd personally like you to try adding additional ballast through ways other than the livewell for several reasons; 1) you can be more discriminant with the placement completely on port side not just port of center 2) you can prolly use less weight this way 3) you can move it forward to aid with holeshot and 4) it is fixed and not sloshing around.

How much water do you think it was in the livewell? However much, figure out the weight and use a fixed ballast of that weight and place it around the passenger console. Did you notice you had to run extra positive trim? Almost sounds like you were since you ran the same speed as before but at a higher rpm. What did you rooster tail look like? Btw when you ran the 75.3 what were the conditions? Are you now able to make an extended run without the chine walk or just touching the 75 range?

Dealership will be raising the motor one hole to middle hole or 3rd from top on motor mount. Good to know, I will definitely be watching WP like a hawk. As per your suggestion, I will start using the lead bricks for more precise placement and will add one to each rod locker/in front of consoles to see if that helps the hole shot. Live well was 3/4 full so about 33 gallons maybe...great idea on utilizing fixed weights versus the water sloshing around. Makes a ton of sense. Yes, I was running a bit more positive trim and rooster tail was about as high as top of cowling maybe a tad higher. Conditions were great, VERY light breeze, and a touch of chop. Chine is still there but a bit more manageable thanks to yours/Bailey's ballancing suggestion and Jeff's suggestion on how to aproach the steering. I did just what you guys said and pretty much let the steering take care of itself aside from an occasional "tap" of input. It gave me a new perspective on how to drive this thing. Not making extended runs at 75+...just getting over 75 before having to back off/running out of water.

[RISE]

26 XS for your setup. My Atlas is in 3rd hole from top and motor in 3rd hole from top.
Again you sound like you need more height so I'd mount in 3rd hole on Atlas and 4th hole on engine.
That's good with a 920 and yes more some more is there.

XS seems to make more sense for improved hole shot with all that tunable venting available. 4th hole from top on engine I'm assuming?
If I can get this thing to drive like its on rails or close to it at 77-78 I would be thrilled guys.