my toys came in and I cant wait to install them.
Well I finally got around to putting in the through hull fittings and the new live well valves. The hardest part of the whole process was to get the old silicon off and I am talking about 5lbs on each old fitting. My biggest fear is that I did not make a good seal and they will leak. Since I used the 3m 5200 then it will be really hard to take them lose and redo.
Here are the steps I took.
1- removed the old fittings and valves
2- removed as much of the silicon as I could with a razor blade.
3- used Goo Gone to remove more. Still did not get all of it off.
4- washed it with warm soapy water then dried it.
5- put some 5200 inside the holes all the way around.
6- put a bead of 5200 on the fittings and put them in
7-used needle nose plyers with a washer as a through the hull wrench.(read that some where before). Tighted them down till 5200 came out the sides.(all the way around)
8- plumbed the valves in, all the way to the live wells.
9-cut cables to the correct length.
The only thing I don't like is the levers now say closed and the valves are open, and when it says open they are closed. Flow Rite is a directional valve or at least seem to be. If I had gone with a traditional TH Marine valve, I would not have that problem.
Over all I think it looks clean and seems to function very well.
Next week I will put the plug in and feel the bulige up with water and let it sit of a couple hours to see if there is a leak.
Last edited by basshawksc; 05-10-2017 at 12:40 PM.
If you have access to a label maker, make some new "Open" "Closed" labels to cover the old ones (or go to a sign shop and have them make them up for you).
I have a label maker, but I am also toying with the idea of a new face plate for it:)
Well, after along winter I put the boat in the water and my fittings did not leak. Next Step is to figure out what I want to do with the fishing seats. New ones or try to have them redone.
basshawk whats up - Got steering in place. 2x4 trick worked like a charm, good call.
Now its time to bleed steering. any pointers?
Is the steering wheel self-centering in relation to the ram on the O/B?
In other words, if I follow the bleed procedure will it just work itself out and there will be equal turns lock to lock L-R?
Thanks man
The steering is not self-centering but you can center it by cracking both valves open and slowly moving the steering wheel.
What I did is, I had buddy at the motor and he hooked up line a to the valves(one valve at a time), ran it into a clean bucket. I took the cap off at the halm and hooked the hose to the halm then to the bottle. I lifted the bottle up so the fluid will start going in the halm, then put a push pin hole in the container that has the fluid in it.(so it can breath and let air out.) Start moving the steering wheel I the direction needed (depending on which valve is cracked). You should see the motor start to turn. Once the fluid is starting to come out, close that valve and do the same on the other side. Then just switch from valve to valve making sure the air is out. You will be able to tell when all the air is out of the system.
Once the air is out of the system, make sure the motor is straight, take the line off that you use to add fluid. Crack open both bleed valves and slowly turn your steering wheel till it is center. Then close off all valves and put the cap on the halm.
Then you are complete. Make sure you don't over tighten anything. And make sure you put the black rubber protectors back on the bleed valves.
Bleed one valve at a time.
Last edited by basshawksc; 05-10-2017 at 12:43 PM.
I was at my mechanics a couple weeks ago and bought a motorguide TR82 off him for $150 to replace my 30 year old Johnson T.M. With help and parts from Jones trolling motor, I was able to get it running for less then a total of $500. Which is less then half of the cost of a new T.M.
The Johnson only worked on the 12 volt side and was slow but with this upgrade I now have a 24 volt 82 lbs of thrust. I should enjoy the heck out of it.
I will post pictures.
Well after 29 years I removed the Johnson 12/24 TM and put on a new to me Motorguide TR82. I have never installed a TM before so I took my time and well I hope I did it right. I had to pull the 2 pair of old wires out, because they were wire tied together. So since I had them out I inspected a set and reinstalled them. I used the other set to make my jumpres. I marked were my holes needed go and tried to make sure they were not to close to the old holes. After I drilled the new 1/2 holes, I then filled the old holes with 1/2 dowels. I colored the ends then applied silicon and put them in the holes. Then I installed the motor mounts. Over all I was not to bad just took time. The last part is to find a place to mount the new 50 amp breaker.
Last edited by basshawksc; 05-22-2017 at 12:16 PM.
You should put all your work into a free shutterfly website and share the whole project. Mine is below. I am maybe 3/4 the way done.
https://steves1982ranger350vbassboat.shutterfly.com
stevecabass very nice work, I have a couple of questions for you? 1- what kind of paint did you use for the Bilge compartment, live wells and deck lids? 2- what glass did you use on the lids? 3- how well do you like the durabak?
Basshawksc,if you haven't figured out the reverse reading on you livewell levers yet,I believe the red levers on top of the valves are reversible,to the other side of the cap,and will reverse the way the valve works. If you look at it,there is screw holes so that it can go either way. Very good job on the boat. Those old BassHawks were a fun boat to drive,tons of lift. It felt like you were flying over the water.
Rip thank you for the compliment. Its taken some time and over all I am happy how she is turning out. This is my first boat and I get compliments all the time at the landings.
a couple weeks ago I was out fishing and I hit something while riding to a spot. I don't know what it was but it did screw my gel coat up bad. So I ordered a repair kit.
I located all my dings in the gel coat and prepped them like the kit said. Then I mixed the black with the polyresin and followed the steps. After it cured I sanded it with 1000 grit then 2000 grit. (I did not ad flake since I cant find any that is even close.) The only thing I would do different is I would not use the stretch wrap cover it. Only thing left is to buff it out.
Nice work!
Yep, cling wrap creates waves on the gelcoat. Thicker mylar works much better, leaving a smoother surface to finish. Using a sanding block also ensures the repair highspots get hit and sanded down, vs. surrounding lower spots.
I got some really great results from the gel coat repair and one well not so great cause I ended up sanding the current flake out. I will have to figure that out later. Mine while here are some after pictures of the ones I am proud of.
Last edited by basshawksc; 07-10-2017 at 01:18 PM.
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