Merc 115 4 Stroke EFI 2013 Starting Problem

[Blue82]

I am reposting this from the Mercury Motors forum.

I went to start my motor yesterday. It turned over fine but would not fire. I noticed I left my master power switch on for the past week. I then charged my battery all night, tried starting in AM, same issue.

When I put the ignition key to run, it usually sounds a continuos sound indicating fuel priming I believe. Now, when I put ignition key to run, I hear a segmented sound.

I did not load test battery yet. I did change out the low pressure fuel filter. Any thoughts on how to fix this problem?

My motor SN is 1b953493

thanks,

Craig

[Wildcat Dude]

If you have a digital volt meter, check the starting battery voltage to insure you have 12.7 to 12.9 (or slightly higher on some batteries). Do you charge your starting battery from an onboard charge when not fishing? If not, then take the cowl off and inspect all electrical connections from the flywheel down and ESPECIALLY the alternator. (unplug cable and inspect it).

If the voltage on the battery is up to snuff then you can use another tool - a hydrometer to check the cells (if its a wet cell battery that caps will remove), if ANY cells show below par - replace the battery - no need to load test. Otherwise continue to the load test. Personally I don't put much stock in load testing as some of those guys just don't do it correctly or read it wrong at those auto parts store.

NOTE: if your voltage reading is lower than 12.6, you need to consider replacing that battery and really inspect the alternator or have it tested. BUT if this is a 2013, then its under warranty so here's another test.

Need a buddy with you so you can drive the boat up to 2000 rpms (or better) and have him (or you) check the voltage directly from the battery. If alternator is working, then you should be seeing nearly 14.5 volts. (can't test this while on the muffs, motor MUST be in the water for pressure.)

Now having said all that - I'd just take it to the dealer and let them check unless the battery has gone bad.

[rickdb1]

Might want to check all your fuses in the engine compartment too. There are fuses for the electric fuel pump, as well as the fuel injectors and ignition coils, among others...

[EuropeanAM]

Definitely start at the CRANKING BATTERY, by LOAD TESTING it. That is really the most important test.

Also, verify terminals are PROPERLY connected (not REVERSE polarity- which can instantaneously damage components).

CLEAN terminals- ENGINE CABLES installed FIRST, remaining lugs Largest to Smallest, and finish off the connections with a Stainless Locknut (pre-thread nut on a bolt FIRST). Do NOT use wing-nuts.

There are also fuses on the engine that could have been damaged (especially in the event of ANY reverse-polarity connection at battery).

[Blue82]

I know terminals are correct as I have never changed them.

I still plan to get battery load testing.

Appreciate feedback so far.

Another observation - when I turn ignition key to run, I get 7 beeps. It also beeps when I try starting. I am told these are some type of warning codes? Any idea what they mean?

Craig

[Wildcat Dude]

exactly what do the beeps sound like? Read this before answering http://www.bbcboards.net/mercury-3-l...beep-beep.html

[EuropeanAM]

exactly what do the beeps sound like? Read this before answering http://www.bbcboards.net/mercury-3-l...beep-beep.html

+1... Follow the advise found in that link!

I know terminals are correct as I have never changed them.

This does NOT mean that they are CLEAN, OR THAT THEY ARE CORRECT. Don't make assumptions in this area... as it can come back to bite you.