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  1. #1
    mikesxpress
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    Lightbulb Cleaning your cooling water strainer screen on 250 Pro XS

    I have done this a few times and decided to document it the last time for guys that have not done it.
    [Copyright release from Mike Meier for this BBC informational post only. 2/2/15]
    <Moderator Edit: Some of this post has been edited, to ensure appropriate images are in use, and provide additional credit and information. MANY tanks to Mike for his hard work on this post!>

    According to the Mercury Service Manual:

    "Cooling water strainer screen cleaning.

    Remove lower cowlings. 4 bolts. Remove the cowling seal.
    *The lower rear bolt is accessed by removing the rubber plug on the port side cowl. If it’s cold, a heat gun/hair dryer will help to soften it up."

    Note the RUBBER ACCESS PLUG inserted in the LOWER COWLING (port side) at Location marked "C" in the below images:






    A: Inside FRONT of cowling, port side, at very FRONT.
    B: Outside of cowling, Port side, UNDERNEATH near front
    C: Remove rubber ACCESS plug, screw is INSIDE cowling, down low (access through plug opening)
    D: Inside rear of cowling, port side, up high.

    The port side cowling section will remain intact due to the incoming cables but can be moved away from the engine to increase your work space. The starboard side cowling can be removed once you disconnect the trim switch cable.




    Locate the cooling water hose. Remove the retainer & hose from the strainer screen insert.







    Remove the strainer using a deep well socket. Clean the inside of the threaded hole and wipe dry. Clean the screen.

    It is sometimes helpful to connect a pin-style earmuff attachment, cover the LOW water inlets, and WHILE WATER IS SUPPLIED, start the engine and allow it to idle (strainer REMOVED). DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE FOR MORE THAN 30 seconds with strainer removed.

    This helps to flush away remaining debris trapped in the opening (or the threads of the adapter plate), as a large volume of water will escape through this opening during the above (30 seconds total/maximum flush procedure).










    Apply pipe thread dope.



    Install strainer. Attach hose using Part# 816311T "Radius Head Tie Wrap" (if using a tie-wrap gun, set it to 50%).






    Once strainer has been reinstalled, and appropriate clamp installed on the hose, REINSTALL the lower engine cowling (installation is the reverse of removal).

    Test run the engine on an appropriate flush attachment (don't forget to cover the low water inlets of the gearcase, as appropriate), and check for leaks.

    Also verify appropriate idle water pressure, and good TELLTALE stream are present.

    Reinstall upper engine cowling once proper function has been verified.
    Last edited by mikesxpress; 07-12-2017 at 06:20 AM. Reason: Clarification/Permissable Images

  2. mikesxpress
    Guest
    #2
    If you run allot in weeds/shallow water you will want to keep after this as it's the water that cools your compressor.

    I fish in the Potomac with allot of grass in the river so this is a regular mait. item for me. I have seen some of these plug up.


    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by mikesxpress; 07-12-2017 at 06:28 AM.

  3. Member rocketman6965's Avatar
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    #3
    Thanks Mike. I fish Okeechobee a lot and run in to a lot of muck. Reminds me I have to do to my new to me 250 Pro XS.

    Joe Perez
    Boatless white trash

  4. Member
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    #4
    Excellent information. Thank you for taking the time to put that together. Worthy of "sticky" status, IMO.

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    #5
    "Sticky"

  6. 2005 Ranger 520/225 Opti curado100d's Avatar
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    #6
    FYI...this strainer is on several Opti Models. 18 mm deep well socket.

  7. Member
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    #7
    Looks good. The only thing I would recommend is that you purchase the correct radius head tie wraps.

    Thanks for the documentation.

  8. Member TritonTRXV8's Avatar
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by curado100d View Post
    FYI...this strainer is on several Opti Models. 18 mm deep well socket.
    Yep same for my 1.5L. Luckily I dont have to pull the lower cowling on mine. Cool pics.
    Roy
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  9. mikesxpress
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by basstrackeroptimax View Post
    Yep same for my 1.5L. Luckily I dont have to pull the lower cowling on mine. Cool pics.
    You might be able to get to it on the 3.0 without pulling the lower cowlings but it would be a PIA. Never tried to do it that way.

  10. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #10
    Very nice writeup, Mike.

    I would add that when reinstalling the HOSE onto the strainer, Part# 816311T (RADIUS head tie-wrap) should be utilized. This is critical, as "standard" tie-wraps do not provide a full-round clamp load on the hose (see air gap in the pictures).

    Would have made an excellent sticky, except for the copyright notices.
    Last edited by EuropeanAM; 01-28-2015 at 05:48 AM. Reason: Tie-Wrap Recomendation


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  11. Member neo's Avatar
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    #11
    Very informative, thankyou

  12. Member
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesxpress View Post
    I have done this a few times and decided to document it the last time for guys that have not done it.

    [Copyright release from Mike Meier for this BBC informational post only. 2/2/15]
    <Moderator Edit: Some of this post has been edited, to ensure appropriate images are in use, and provide additional credit and information. MANY tanks to Mike for his hard work on this post!>

    According to the Mercury Service Manual:

    "Cooling water strainer screen cleaning.

    Remove lower cowlings. 4 bolts. Remove the cowling seal.
    *The lower rear bolt is accessed by removing the rubber plug on the port side cowl. If it’s cold, a heat gun/hair dryer will help to soften it up."

    Note the RUBBER ACCESS PLUG inserted in the LOWER COWLING (port side) at Location marked "C" in the below images:






    A: Inside FRONT of cowling, port side, at very FRONT.
    B: Outside of cowling, Port side, UNDERNEATH near front
    C: Remove rubber ACCESS plug, screw is INSIDE cowling, down low (access through plug opening)
    D: Inside rear of cowling, port side, up high.

    The port side cowling section will remain intact due to the incoming cables but can be moved away from the engine to increase your work space. The starboard side cowling can be removed once you disconnect the trim switch cable.




    Locate the cooling water hose. Remove the retainer & hose from the strainer screen insert.







    Remove the strainer using a deep well socket. Clean the inside of the threaded hole and wipe dry. Clean the screen.

    It is sometimes helpful to connect a pin-style earmuff attachment, cover the LOW water inlets, and WHILE WATER IS SUPPLIED, start the engine and allow it to idle (strainer REMOVED). DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE FOR MORE THAN 30 seconds with strainer removed.

    This helps to flush away remaining debris trapped in the opening (or the threads of the adapter plate), as a large volume of water will escape through this opening during the above (30 seconds total/maximum flush procedure).








    Apply pipe thread dope.



    Install strainer. Attach hose using Part# 816311T "Radius Head Tie Wrap" (if using a tie-wrap gun, set it to 50%).







    Once strainer has been reinstalled, and appropriate clamp installed on the hose, REINSTALL the lower engine cowling (installation is the reverse of removal).

    Test run the engine on an appropriate flush attachment (don't forget to cover the low water inlets of the gearcase, as appropriate), and check for leaks.

    Also verify appropriate idle water pressure, and good TELLTALE stream are present.

    Reinstall upper engine cowling once proper function has been verified.
    Great post. I would like to add that when you have the strainer out attach the garden hose to the rear flush port. Turn the water on and flush the engine there will be contaminants collected inside at the base of the block inside and by flushing it you can remove the unseen debris before you put the screen back in. This will ensure you have clean and clear passage threw the screen.
    Last edited by EuropeanAM; 02-02-2015 at 05:26 AM. Reason: Quote- to reflect updated info/images
    Egret Moccasin 210 Mercury 225

  13. mikesxpress
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    #13
    The picture with the tie wrap gun was taken prior to tightening it down. No gap exists now that it is tight. I concur the use of the radius ties would be better.

  14. Member rocketman6965's Avatar
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    #14
    I guess it was time

    muck 1.jpg


    Quote Originally Posted by rocketman6965 View Post
    Thanks Mike. I fish Okeechobee a lot and run in to a lot of muck. Reminds me I have to do to my new to me 250 Pro XS.

    Joe Perez
    Boatless white trash

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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by rocketman6965 View Post
    I guess it was time

    muck 1.jpg
    I'd say overdue. One nice thing is your compressor will be happier with the improved coolant flow.
    _______

    Phil
    '09 Hewescraft ProV
    '09 150 Optimax


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    #16
    thank you.
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  17. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #17
    Spoke with Mike this afternoon. He's done an excellent job with the post- we'll make a few tweaks to it, and get it up in the Commonly Asked- Commonly Used sticky within the next few days.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  18. Member
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    #18
    Don what is the hose below the strainer hose ?

  19. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #19
    Air Pressure Dump Hose (from the air pressure regulator).


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

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    #20
    Nice write up! Thanks

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