I have seen others ask about it and there isn't much on here about this job. so here goes!
I got my boat/engine late 2011. The previous owner clamed the water pump was done that spring. It was peeing good and never had an issue. NOW< for my own personal opinion only, I go 2 to 3 years on a pump as long as it has good pressure and is peeing a good stream. Most shops and engine manufactures recommend getting the impeller changed every year. I used stock Yamaha parts ordered off boats.net so all markings are based off stock parts, not aftermarket parts. I went in this blind on Yamaha, only doing the pumps on my old mercury engines, and having a sealoc manual that was pretty vague on this job so hopefully this helps some one who want's to try the pump by themselves.
First I removed the prop, this is so I had a place to grab and hold the lower, plus it's a good time to look at the shaft, for any line wrapped up in the prop area, and to grease the output bearing. I also drained the lower first, I do it every year anyways before the spring season. Next remove the trim tab anode, there are 2 bolts under it.
Then you need to remove the 8 bolts that hold the lower on, one bolt in the rear is longer than the rest so make note of that. 14mm bolt heads.
The lower didn't just fall down, I had to give it a hand to come down. I had a drain pan down low that was clean and dry to catch any thing that may fall down, I've had washers, bolts, clips, and other stuff hit the ground before and roll away, this time only a few small rocks fell out. Now I have read in the past people having issues getting the lower back up or shifting issues after wards so don't start moving any shafts yet.
After I got it down I inspected everything looking for issues. One issue I noticed was a gasket in the exhaust port was burned out on the sides. I called around and no one close had one in stock so I used some red silicone to seal this up when I reinstalled the lower. That seal is part#61A-45375-00-00 (seal, damper) cost is $11 on boats.net
Next I found a reference point and marked my main shaft with a red paint pen.
I then moved the lower to a holder I made up out of a crate to get it sitting straight up and down to start pulling the housing for the pump off. The housing is held on with just the 4 bolts, 12mm heads. For some reason the pics for the next 5 parts the file on my camera was corrupted ??? If you go to boats.net it'll have a break down of them. You can see them in the pic that shows the old parts and new ones laid out. But they are as follows, a steel collar that covers, a plastic collar, a flat washer, a wave washer, and a flat washer. You must remove the steel collar off the plastic one to get it the plastic one to spread enough to get it over the shaft. 2 screw divers was what I used to do this. You can then remove the steel impeller housing, the impeller will come up with the housing, then use a drift punch to drive down the woodruff key, careful not to hit the shaft, the lower steel plate is next but notice the way it sits, there is 2 tabs that stick up on the under side of it, but the plate only goes on one way on the dow pins. Finally remove the gasket and dow pins. The gasket will leave some material on the housing, removing the dow pins to make the job of cleaning the lower housing off easier. This is all the old parts and new parts lines up next to each other.
The kit I used was part#61A-W0078-A3, this kit did not include the housing, I only replaced the main housing because I know what age and heat can do to plastic. The new housing (part#61A-44311-01-00 $24) does not come with a seal and collar which needs to be transferred over or new ones installed. Seal part#6E5-44312-00-00( listed as: cover, water pump housing $2.04) and collar part# 6E5-44365-00-00 (damper, water seal $9).
Now For the impeller itself. Do not remove it yet as you can use it as a guide as to which way it is installed, but, the impeller is marked which way it needs to be installed. It's not words but lines, also you will notice the key way for the woodruff key is only cut on one side, that side goes down.
This is my old pump in the housing. Notice the way the impeller sits twisted inside the housing, you will see lines that tilted in the direction the vanes are pointing.
This is the new impeller installed in the new housing and lubed up with petroleum jelly. It'll help when you need to spin the shaft later on.
I then removed the old impeller and looked at the vanes to see how it was wearing.
Now for the reinstall of the pump parts. Dow pins, paper gasket(watch which way it goes, make sure all holes are lined up, it will go on with both sides facing up but the dow pins are offset and will cause the bolt holes to be misaligned if it's not sitting right.) and then flat steel plate, making sure the raised tabs in the cut out slot are facing down, again the bolt holes won't line up if it's upside down. Then install your woodruff drive key.
Next is the impeller housing, but it has to be orientated a certain way in the housing. On the top of it is 2 tabs and a hole. On the bottom side is an area that is not as tall which is where the water is pushed out into the main housing. In order to show how it should sit and to give you idea of how to place it on the shaft I took these pics:
The holes will line up and the tabs will fall into some slots cut out in the main housing. It'll be hard to eyeball it on the shaft so notice the hole is where the outlet tube is, so if you sit it down with it facing that way you will be close. Now when you push the impeller and impeller housing down over the shaft notice where the woodruff key is sitting and make sure the impeller sides into place over the key. You will notice a "block" marking on top of the impeller, this is the woodruff key slot that is not cut out. When you get it down over it you can now spin the housing into position. Press hard down on the housing, or the impeller could pop out if you don't. Now you can install the washers, and collars, flat washer-wave washer-flat washer; plastic collar, and then the steel collar. I used a larger roll pin punch to drive the steel collar over the plastic collar. The water pump housing has 2 orings, in order to hold them in place the housing has some tabs built into the slots they go to but I also use some petroleum jelly also to hold them in place. The large oring is not preformed.
As you slide the housing down and it gets to the top of the impeller housing, if it doesn't go down all the way you can then take the shaft and while you press lightly down on the housing give the shaft some movement and the impeller housing will turn with the shaft and will line the tabs up and the housing should go down all the way. Install the four bolts, and then line your mark back up on your reference point.
I then blew out all dirt and rocks out of the lower housing, this front area was packed with sand and rocks.
I then cleaned and greased up both shaft splines. Gently raise the lower up into the mid section, install your bolts( a friend helps but if you can manage it one person can hold it up into place and get one bolt to hold it up to install the rest of the bolts. The rest of the job is pretty straight forward.
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by 1bluemcm
Most likely you didn't move it,but if you did,turn it all the way one direction with a pair of pliers, and then the other direction all the way.In between those you feel a detent and that is neutral. Put it in neutral, and the shifter in neutral, and then stick the lower unit on your motor.
