Bullet 19vee prop suggestions

[Bassboatdude]

88 bullet 19vee 1" below pad LWPU 2.4l 200
i have tried a non worked 26p tempest and rAn 66mph but Rpms were low
tried an 25p ot4 bullet cut had ridiculous bow lift and ran 60 mph
Wondering what other props, pitches I could look into trying out?
I know I can get more speed out of her, I just don't think that 26p is turning fast enough at WOT, my tach went out I know that it would help to have those numbers but ordering a new tach this week. Any suggestions would be great. If there are any 19vee owners if you guys could chime in and make a few suggestions that would be cool too. Thanks bbc

[90 5.0]

You prolly need to start raising the motor 1" BELOW the pad isn't gonna give best perform e with a coned lu

[Bassboatdude]

image.jpgThat was at 66 with a 26p tempest

[Matt Wayne]

I've been running a 200efi on mine for a few months now but really haven't played with the set up. Most of the time when I take the 19 me and my kids are crappie fishing and I don't get over 50mph. When I hung the 200 on I think I set it at 1.5" below the pad with the standard lower unit and 9.5 rapid jack. I am running a 27 bravo xs and have run it up to 72-73 few times but thats it. You should easily be into the 70s with a 200. If you have low water pick up jack it up to around 3/4" above the pad and start there. I don't have any experience with the 2.4s but I believe I could turn a 28 with no problem and that would put mine in the mid to upper 70s with the stock limiter. With a low water pick up, a top end prop and set up a 200 should take these 19s well into the 80s.

[Huntman1990]

I’m clueless when people talk about jak the motor up 3/8 above par and low water pickups someone enlighten me lol I’ve got a 19vee with a evinrude intruder 175 I get to about 60 and it starts walking violently it’s got a 26p trophy prop and a 6in jack plate

[ETN_Bullet]

I had the same setup as yours a few years ago but I had a 10" jackplate. I ran mine 1" below pad (the center of the nose cone is 1" below the pad on the hull).
To measure that, level the hull and the motor then measure from the floor to the bottom of the pad (lowest edge on the rear of the boat). Now measure from the floor to the center of the nose cone on the LU and subtract that from the first measurement. That's how far below pad you are.
If your water intakes are on the sides of the LU you'll likely need to plug to the top two or three to keep water pressure up (mine was 3). A low water pickup has the water inlets on the bottom of the nose cone. Bob's (and probably others) makes a cone kit with a pickup and sport masters have them from the factory. They allow you to run the motor higher (above pad) and still have water pressure.
I had my 19 up to 72 a couple of times and it got scary. I have a 20XD now and it's a different animal altogether but anyone here will tell you seat time is the best cure and I still don't have enough of it to really turn this one loose. Lol

[KenHo]

Huntman, it is basically what ETN said. The 19 and 20's will not perform to their potential without low water pickup, period. The sportmaster is a common fix for this but a nose cone kit like a Bob's or others is a good option. A reasonable starting point is raise the motor untill the centerline of the prop is 1/2 inch above the bottom of the pad, this is where your jack plate comes in. You will likely need a 12 inch plate. You will likely wind up at about 1-1/4 inch above pad. The chine walk is a product of the pad. When the hull is up on the pad you are having to balance the boat on an area about 12" wide by 2-3 feet long. All high performance boats with a pad will chime walk at some speed, usually start at around 60-65 MPH. The barrel of most props produce some lift. This lift is trying to lift the pad off of the water making control very hard due to severe chine walk. Raising the motor up helps control the lift of the prop and lets the rear of the pad stay in contact with the surface. After this, it just takes seat time.