Thread: 2.5 performance

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  1. Banned
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    #21
    I've only worked on 2 cycle snowmobile motor and quad motors. I now work have 4 stroke stuff. Which I really like. The boat motors are all new to me. The snowmobile motors don't have fire ring head gaskets so squish was controlled by the head. That's why we'd do squish before and after.

  2. Member
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    #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Smith View Post
    Stay away from a 100% syn oil in the fuel on steel sleeved engines use a GOOD blend like Pen XLF..........

    Jay
    Jay...I highly value your opinion but I have been running 100% synthetic Pennzoil in in steel sleeve 225 promax for about 14 years with no issues. What have you seen that causes concern??

  3. Owner JSRE Racing
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    #23
    I had several gaudted bores till I learned my lesson..I now break in ALL motors on 100% petroleum and then run nothing better than a blend on steel bores after the break in with 100% success.......

    Good luck,
    Jay

  4. Member
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    #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Smith View Post
    I had several gaudted bores till I learned my lesson..I now break in ALL motors on 100% petroleum and then run nothing better than a blend on steel bores after the break in with 100% success.......

    Good luck,
    Jay
    ok... my question is now after all these years should I switch to the blend or keep doing what I'm doing? This is a fishing motor that doesn't see 7k rpm's

  5. Member
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    #25
    If you switch now, and IF you were to have a breakdown, how would you feel about it? Personally, I would let that be my guide. I ran a 225X on 100% synthetic for 323 hours with no issues, of course, it could have just been luck.

  6. Member
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    #26
    Well Ive got royal purple gear lube in the case, Synthetic blend oil to burn, and switched to 87 octane. I run an even 70mph now with a full tank of gas and loaded with gear by myself. Not sure what helped but I like it. The prop spins way easier by hand with royal purple in there. Excited to run it in the cold air this fall haha.

  7. Member Fish Boy's Avatar
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    #27
    Quote Originally Posted by wicker*man View Post
    Well Ive got royal purple gear lube in the case, Synthetic blend oil to burn, and switched to 87 octane. I run an even 70mph now with a full tank of gas and loaded with gear by myself. Not sure what helped but I like it. The prop spins way easier by hand with royal purple in there. Excited to run it in the cold air this fall haha.
    If you're running in northern MN the cool weather is helping you get those speeds

  8. Member
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    #28
    [QUOTE=Fish Boy;5285750]If you're running in northern MN the cool weather is helping you get those speeds[/Q
    70 degrees it ran 70.1. This morning at 50 degrees it ran 70.6.

  9. Upper Chesapeake Bay Club Moderator RiverRatMD's Avatar
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    #29
    try running in 93 degrees and humidity like down south....you'd be mid 60's!!!!
    Gambler 2200 / PRoCraft 180 / Roughneck Jet / Mercury 250XB, 175 / Evinrude 50

  10. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #30
    Quote Originally Posted by RiverRatMD View Post
    try running in 93 degrees and humidity like down south....you'd be mid 60's!!!!
    ESPECIALLY with the fuel coming down the line lately.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
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  11. Member
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    #31
    yep. love our cool dry air. easy breathin

  12. Owner JSRE Racing
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    #32
    Run what has been demonstrating you success in your motor so far and IMO I'd consider myself lucky...I report on what I find success as well as failure using.. I also am reporting on litterly "ZILLIONS" of these engines that I've successfully built not 1 or 2....

    Good luck,
    Jay

  13. Member
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    #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Smith View Post
    Run what has been demonstrating you success in your motor so far and IMO I'd consider myself lucky...I report on what I find success as well as failure using.. I also am reporting on litterly "ZILLIONS" of these engines that I've successfully built not 1 or 2....

    Good luck,
    Jay
    Tyler37075,

    Not that long ago you would have been made to feel you were in the wrong if you were NOT running 100% synthetic oil in a steel sleeve motor.

    If you have been running it with good luck I say keep running it!

  14. Member
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    #34
    Quote Originally Posted by mstine06 View Post
    Tyler37075,

    Not that long ago you would have been made to feel you were in the wrong if you were NOT running 100% synthetic oil in a steel sleeve motor.

    If you have been running it with good luck I say keep running it!
    I am not running 100% synthetic. I took Jay's advice and went with pennsoil xlf.

  15. Owner JSRE Racing
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    #35
    I ( Hopefully) have lived and learned from mistakes made in the past and willfully report on new updated ( FIRST HAND ) data to try and help the forum people not to make mistakes. I am sort of a test bed for all you. When I find something I've gave the nod on that could be an issue I report on the issue found and try keep your 1 motor from the same fate. Most that own but one motor rely on someone like me that build a zillion motors to steer them down the proven path.. The 100% syn oil on steel bit me several times till I learned a 100% successful path . The KEY to getting by with 100% syn on steel is to KNOW when the bore and ring tention are at a point where the oil can be thinner with less film strength and lubrisity (100% SYN ), with less ring tention you can get by with less/different weight lubrication due to less friction and heat .IMO a 100% syn oil on steel bore is an over kill as well as waste of funds, that I don't nowdays suggest.. I've been successfully building these V-6 Mercs for 20 + years.. Show me someone that's been in a business that doesn't learn from his / her mistakes and evolve to become more successful , I'll show you a fool. The move to the XLF is a smart one..As it is a blend of syn as well as dino oils to give the lower RPM (<8000 ) steel sleeved engines great protection...

    Jay
    Last edited by Jay Smith; 09-25-2014 at 01:55 PM.

  16. Member
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    #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Smith View Post
    I ( Hopefully) have lived and learned from mistakes made in the past and willfully report on new updated ( FIRST HAND ) data to try and help the forum people not to make mistakes. I am sort of a test bed for all you. When I find something I've gave the nod on that could be an issue I report on the issue found and try keep your 1 motor from the same fate. Most that own but one motor rely on someone like me that build a zillion motors to steer them down the proven path.. The 100% syn oil on steel bit me several times till I learned a 100% successful path . The KEY to getting by with 100% syn on steel is to KNOW when the bore and ring tention are at a point where the oil can be thinner with less film strength and lubrisity (100% SYN ), with less ring tention you can get by with less/different weight lubrication due to less friction and heat .IMO a 100% syn oil on steel bore is an over kill as well as waste of funds, that I don't nowdays suggest.. I've been successfully building these V-6 Mercs for 20 + years.. Show me someone that's been in a business that doesn't learn from his / her mistakes and evolve to become more successful , I'll show you fool. The move to the XLF is a smart one..As it is a blend of syn as well as dino oils to give the lower RPM (<8000 ) steel sleeved engines great protection...

    Jay
    What an excellent resource this site is and we are lucky to have experts in so many categories. I appreciate all the help I get here. Thank you!

  17. Owner JSRE Racing
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    #37
    Your very welcome .

    Jay

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