Thread: Transom Time

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  1. Member
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    #21
    Home Page

    This is the link to web page for anyone needing powder coating.

  2. Member SuperBee's Avatar
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    #22
    I need to know how much material to get. I was thinking I would get this and have a little leftover. The 1708 and chopped mat is 38" width
    12 yrd DBM 1708 Biaxial
    3 yrd 1-1/2oz Chopped Strand Mat
    15 yrd DBM 1708 Biaxial TAPES 6"
    2 gal 435 Standard Polyester Layup Resin

  3. Member thomasfouraker's Avatar
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    #23
    I think that should be enough glass but you may find out you need more resin. Not sure how far the polyester resin goes, I know I used about 2.5-3 gallons on mine but I used epoxy resin.

    Also with the tapes, I got 6" and 8" tapes. My thought on that was I wanted the each layer of tape to extend beyond the layer below, not only grabbing what the first glass tape layer did but also new transom, bulkhead and stringer areas. It seems like it would be stronger to me but I could be wrong.

    What are you doing about bedding the transom in with a fillet?

    I want to say I used talc, 1/4" chopped strand mat fibers and aerosil cabosil mixture. Mixed to a peanut butter consistency to make a nice curve transition for that glass to lay. Your resin will go further if you do wet on wet layers and you will be able to somewhat manipulate the glass and fillet to get all the air bubbles out really easily. I waited for my fillet to start kicking then layed and wet out my first tape, then my second and then my third. That was enough for me that particular day but when I checked on it the next day with just with the transom taped in it was solid. I then sanded the the areas I taped the day before to allow for good adhesion and put two layers of 1708 across the whole transom. That was followed by a few layers of chopped strand mat and that was all she wrote!

    Be sure you get you a good glass roller and corner roller as well. Tons of cheap chip brushes for wetting out.

    I got my resin, glass and rollers at UScomposites and my chip brushes at Harbor Freight.

    Good luck Ron!

  4. Member SuperBee's Avatar
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    #24
    OK well saved up some money an ordered my fiberglass material today. It should be here by the end of the week. Thanks Steve for the help I ordered from Nancy she is very nice. I don't think I will be able to work on it this weekend because I have a friend coming up from FL. But as soon as I can I will have some updates.

  5. Member jeffro1302's Avatar
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    #25
    This sucks!!!!!!!! We should make Greg do it
    2003 Storm 22 2013 Merc 250 pro xs

  6. Member SuperBee's Avatar
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    #26
    Yea let's get Greg to do them.

  7. Member jeffro1302's Avatar
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    #27
    Right
    2003 Storm 22 2013 Merc 250 pro xs

  8. Member SuperBee's Avatar
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    #28
    Well went back to work on my transom yesterday. I finished grinding and sanding out the old one and started cutting out my temp-let. Going to pickup the plywood today so I can get this project going again now that the weather is going to start cooling down and I an dying to go fishin.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]

  9. Member SuperBee's Avatar
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    #29
    Ok I picked up my plywood today. Got home and went to work cut and test fitted my new transom.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]

  10. Member
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    #30
    Looking good ron.

  11. Member jeffro1302's Avatar
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    #31
    Good job Ron
    2003 Storm 22 2013 Merc 250 pro xs

  12. Member thomasfouraker's Avatar
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    #32
    Ron,

    Looking great man!

    What kind of wood did you end up going with? Looks like some good quality 3/4" without any knots.

    It's going to turn out great! Keep up the good work!

    Looking back, one thing I wish I would have done but didn't, was cover my top cap in a few layers of saran wrap to keep resin from getting on it. You would be surprised where all it ends up and it's just a little prep work that saves tons of time down the road. Not sure if it was in your plans or not but maybe something to consider!

  13. Member SuperBee's Avatar
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    #33
    Thanks guys
    I am using 3/4 Birch plywood. Good idea about the saran wrap. I need to do a little more prep on the hull and wait for my Cabosil to come in then start glassing it back together.

  14. Member
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    #34
    That transom damage was caused by a straight on hi speed impact with a submerged object or while trailering on the road. The forward protrusion of the "V" crack was caused by the forward propollsion of the engine after the inital impact damage had occurred. The engine, when under power, pushes downward and forward causing the area under the aluminum transom plate to flex.

    I replaced that transom myself about 8 years ago and the boat never saw the water(other than rain) until after I sold it thru STORM. The material I used was called SPACE AGE SYNTHETICS which is another manufacturer's take for Coosa board. It was put in in one piece not 3 sections. As far as moister from the trim tab's screws, thats beyond me. The trim tabs screw into the transom not a void below it and the void area is, was filled with resin putty.

    The Space Age Synthetics material, in my opinion, is/was better than plywood or Michigan Composite, which are mostly used in transoms. I use to demonstrate the strength of the SAS by taking a 4' long section of 1/2" material 12" wide, place one end on the trailer step, the other end on the ground and put my 270lb fat ass body on it and jump up and down. You could hear it crackle from the stress but never broke. You can't do that with plywood or Michigan Composite.
    Jim Lanza
    Boca Raton, Florida
    561-789-5490
    www.razorbaits.com

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    #35
    I apologize, I misspoke about me replacing that transom. I did not replace it, it had been redone by someone else. I don't remember who it was. I got this boat in a trade with someone else who wanted a 50 gal fuel tank and their STORM only had a 28 gal fuel tank. I can't vouch for the workmanship as I never touched this transom. The boat I traded away had just had the transom replaced.
    This is one of the last ones I did using Michigan Composite.

    http://www.bbcboards.net/bassboat-re...placement.html

    As I looked closer to the photos that SuperBee posted, I know I never used GREEN resin putty but I did switch over to Space Age Synthetics for the last few transoms that I did.

    As far as the cause of the damage, I'm still saying high speed impact to the lower unit and/or mid section and continual use caused flexing and damage/separation.

    SuperBee, what your doing, as far as replacing the transom, looks great!
    Jim Lanza
    Boca Raton, Florida
    561-789-5490
    www.razorbaits.com

  16. Member thomasfouraker's Avatar
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    #36
    Jim,

    Good to have you stop in! That thread you posted of your transom replacement was the one that inspired me to tackle my own!

    Not sure if you noticed, but did you see the perfect "V" where the transom split? It certainly appears that the transom was placed in, in three different pieces or broke perfectly symmetrical. Just appeared odd to me but I imagine the transom plate could help misdirect the force into a pattern like that.

    Not sure if it is rumor or not, but I have heard that wood actually has some "give" to it that helps in instances of impact such as this and that composites would typically break as a result because they lack the flexibility.

    Nevertheless, Ron is doing a great job and the boat will be good as new soon and it's always good to see you post in the Storm board Jim, hope you're doing well!

  17. Member SuperBee's Avatar
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    #37
    Hey Jim hope all is well. Love my Storm I had read your 91 Storm 206 refurb postings from 2009 and 10 and I knew it was this boat. I don't remember hitting anything but a few months ago I was at West Point and I had a blade break off the prop I thought that was strange. It was a month or so went by and I noticed the transom flexing. I went back and looked at my older postings and found I broke my prop 6/10/14 and a month later is when I started to noticed the flexing.

  18. Member SuperBee's Avatar
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    #38
    Not sure if you noticed, but did you see the perfect "V" where the transom split? It certainly appears that the transom was placed in, in three different pieces or broke perfectly symmetrical. Just appeared odd to me but I imagine the transom plate could help misdirect the force into a pattern like that.

    A couple of pictures that are interesting to me are this one where you can see the green resin in the vee shape
    [IMG][/IMG]


    You can see the vee shape crack where green resin is.
    [IMG][/IG]

  19. Member
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    #39
    Thomas I got on earlier as someone had called me to get some advise on an 87 STORM. He posted some photos and I came on the site to check them out. I then happened along SuperBee's post and reconnized the boat as being one I had owned and worked on. After looking a little closer at the photos, you can see that the transom material, was 2 -3/4" sections sandwiched together. It looks like the front one was 3 pieces, not sure about the rear one. Both sections should have been one piece full width of the transom. When I was using plywood I would sandwich 2 full width pieces together. With the composite, you would use 1 section 1 1/2' thick. The Coosa board and Space Age Synthetics are made with E-glass fibers mixed in with the foam for tensile strength. The Michigan Composite was just straight foam. The MC would snap like a pencil if it took a hard impact. The Coosa and SAS material will not, for the most part, snap. Somewhere, some how the engine must have taken an impact or there was a lot of trailering on bumpy roads with out a motor support. The engine bouncing up and down continually and the continued thrust caused by the engine caused the 3 sections of the front transom board to crack at the seams. Add the loss of an ear from the prop and you're causing a lot of vibration. Chances are the prop was a Tempest Plus. lol

    Ron It hard to say exactly what was the actual cause of the damage. If you don't remember impacting anything and you always trailer with a motor support then it was just caused by the poor design. Either the person that repaired the transom didn't really know what he was doing or he ran short on material and pieced it together. If he would of spanned the center section beyond the stringers, this most likely would of never happened. The work you are doing looks great. I've never used Birch but I've heard that it is clean and strong. Just take your time and don't cut any corners. I've been out of the repair business for about 3 years but I'm willing to try and give you advise if you want it. You should hit Thomas up for help and advice. The transom he did a few years back made me jealous. His work was better than a lot of people's work that are in the industry.
    Jim Lanza
    Boca Raton, Florida
    561-789-5490
    www.razorbaits.com

  20. Member
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    #40
    Ron When I first looked at the photos, I didn't see the full picture. I flipped out thinking that I screwed this transom up when in reality I didn't do this transom. I then went back thru the photos and the best I can make out is that the forward section was installed in 3 pieces. The "V" section area has resin putty in it indicating that it was built that way. You can tell that there was poor adhersion of the "V" section to the back section. I've taken transom apart and have found some that were put together in sections but the front section was almost always one solid width piece or it spanned the stringers. The back(rear) section was either seamed in the middle top to bottom or beyond the span of the stringers. I don't remember what brand of boat that use to have a set back built into it similar to the Rangers, but their transom only spanned the setback and the stringer reached into the setback and tied into the transom. The areas on either side of this setback was not reinforced. The transom and the stringers are like the framework and when they are connected to each other they absorb the twisting caused by the torque of the engine and the down and forward thrust.
    Jim Lanza
    Boca Raton, Florida
    561-789-5490
    www.razorbaits.com

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