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  1. #1
    Member CastingCall's Avatar
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    DIY- Simple 10-step fiberglass gelcoat repairs

    “How do I fix a small [chip, gash, gouge, scratch] in my gelcoat?”
    This question is asked a lot in these forums, so figured I’d offer a simple 10-step instruction using an “everything included” kit, such as the Evercoat Marine Gelcoat Repair Kit. You can find these kits online, or at most local boating centers, and some auto parts stores. This kit contains a tube of clear “gel paste”, which can be mixed with the included catalyst and cures to a clear gelcoat finish. Or it can be tinted prior to adding catalyst – using one or a mixture of primary pigments included in the kit, along with release film, mixing sticks, blending chart & instructions.

    This explanation is for repairing a scratch that has penetrated through the original clear gelcoat, polyflake, and basecoat resin on your boat, possibly exposing fiberglass fibers.

    Practice makes perfect:
    Mix very small batches of the pigments in the kit until it matches your boat’s base gelcoat. A little goes a long way, so use small amounts. If you are lucky, your base tint is simply black. Pigment is added to the gelcoat resin BEFORE catalyst is added, so you need the pigment tinted correctly first.

    For small repairs in polyflake, try using craft glitter – no joke! I bought craft glitter that was the correct size and color (red and silver) at a local ‘mart and mixed them together to match my boat perfectly. Cost was about $5. If you need to mix glitter colors together, do that first. Wet a small area of your boat with water, and throw ‘flake on there – this will give you a good idea of how well it will match your existing hull’s polyflake. There are other sources for polyflake as well – search these forums for more info.
    Fold a small piece of cardboard in a vee and pour some glitter in there before you start. Use a drinking straw to blow the glitter into the wet resin. If you are repairing a topside visible area, definitely practice mixing resin and glitter on something else first! A waxy piece of cardboard works good for a mixing board.

    Prep:
    · Tape off the surrounding area, approximately ½” away from the existing gouge using painter’s tape.
    · Sand down any fiberglass strands protruding, and rough up the surrounding area (about ¼” away from the gouge) with 180 grit sandpaper.
    · Clean the repair area with acetone and a clean, lint-free paper towel.
    · Have a couple of mixing cups or mylar mixing boards and stir sticks ready.

    The 10-step Repair:
    1. THOROUGHLY mix tinted pigment with the gel coat paste.
    2. THOROUGHLY mix catalyst with pigmented gel coat paste. Scrape mixing stick on the edge of mixing cup or board and re-stir to ensure complete mix of resin and catalyst.
    3. Smear a thin coat of gel coat paste into the exposed repair area – just enough to cover exposed fibers.
    4. Blow the glitter onto the wet resin
    5. Cover the resin with a piece of mylar, and flatten the glitter into the resin a bit.
    6. Immediately and carefully peel the mylar off
    7. Quickly and thoroughly mix a batch of clear gel coat paste and catalyst
    8. Spread a thick layer of gel coat paste to fill the repair depth.
    9. Cover with mylar and smooth over it to conform with surrounding surface – use a small squeegee or piece of cardboard to smooth over the mylar. Leave mylar on until gelcoat is completely cured!
    10. Remove mylar - wet-sand, compound, polish and wax as needed to complete the repair.

    In some cases, you may get away with very little sanding, depending on how well you smoothed and matched the clear gelcoat height to the surrounding surface. I've done some minor bottom-side repairs that required almost no sanding at all.

    Take a look at the Bassboat Restoration forum for great info on wet-sanding, compounding and polishing from some pros.
    These kits have worked good for me over the years. Obviously, you decide the best method to repair your boat – but I hope this tutorial helps if you have a simple repair.

    Here's a link to a post from a forum member who used this technique with excellent results. Pics included. http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread....844&highlight=
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by CastingCall; 06-11-2017 at 05:14 PM.

  2. Gar & Mudfish expert! :/ Mickstix's Avatar
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    #2
    This should probably be pinned.. Fixing scratch/gouge damage DIY is a totally different animal than how to bring back shine to oxidized/neglected gel finishes.. Js

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    #3

  4. Member CastingCall's Avatar
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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Mickstix View Post
    This should probably be pinned.. Fixing scratch/gouge damage DIY is a totally different animal than how to bring back shine to oxidized/neglected gel finishes.. Js
    I completely agree Mick! And it would be handy for others if this were pinned. Weekly there are as many questions about filling holes and dings as there are about removing oxidation.
    Hope you don't mind the link to your excellent pics. I don't have any good pics of my repairs since they are all transom or bottom-side related.

  5. Gar & Mudfish expert! :/ Mickstix's Avatar
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    #5
    Don't mind at all!

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    #6
    Working in a overhead spot how much can you build this up to fill a gouge? Helping a buddy with a project. Was just going to use marinetex but it wouldn't come close to matching as the area in grey with flake. I can post a pic later tonight of the repair spot.
    Nitro z21

  7. Member CastingCall's Avatar
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    #7
    Update:
    Had to use the patch kit again this weekend with this process, on a gouge on the bow of my boat - went through the gelcoat, down into the laminate. Not sure how this happened, maybe hit the winch post loading at night - never felt or noticed it until it was in the garage. Anyway, the repair kit worked like a charm again!

    Gouge into the laminate:
    Before repair.jpg

    Repair prepped, base/flake/clear done, mylar removed:
    During 1.jpgDuring 2.jpgDuring 3.jpg

    After wet sanding with 800 and 2500 grit, compound, wax:
    After repair.jpg

  8. Member Sooner496's Avatar
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    #8
    Looks like a pro fixed it!

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    #9
    Thanks for the update!
    Shawn.D
    2015 Phoenix 618pro w/ 150 Evinrude Etec HO

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    #10
    Nice job.

  11. Member
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    #11
    This is a great thread. Thanks for the how to on the glitter.

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    #12
    Great post and should be pinned, I was just thinking about this today and if I could fill some transom screw holes from transducers that the previous owner made. I filled them a couple years ago with marine tex (white) and doesn't look good. Do you guys think I could drill out some of the marine tex and do the steps above to get a nice glitter finish? Will the gel coat stick to the remaining marine tex in the hole? Thanks for any info.

  13. Member KCLOST's Avatar
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    #13
    I agree, awesome post.... Question on the flake, should the flakes be blown on so they "completely" cover the tinted resin? I wonder if the color of the base coat resin is that important to match perfectly, if that is the case.
    Sorry if that is a stupid question....
    Layton Strong
    Nitro State Team

  14. Member CastingCall's Avatar
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by KCLOST View Post
    I agree, awesome post.... Question on the flake, should the flakes be blown on so they "completely" cover the tinted resin? I wonder if the color of the base coat resin is that important to match perfectly, if that is the case.
    Sorry if that is a stupid question....
    Answer: It depends on density of flake application.
    Sometimes the flake is applied so heavy that no base gel is visible through it (e.g., solid silver flake). No base pigment may be needed there.
    Other times, the base gel is visible behind a thinner application of flake - that requires a close pigment match on the base for a seamless repair.

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    #15
    Definitely need to pin this. The flake tip alone is worth it. I have a spot I might try this on.

  16. Member KCLOST's Avatar
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    #16
    Thanks Casting Call, I am getting ready to try to fix a small chip and after looking closely at the top cap of my boat, I think it has a black base coat with a heavy amount of flake... I will know for sure when I get the flake itself for inspection.

    How does the manufacture apply the flake? I assume that clear coat is applied to the mold first, then the flake mixed with more clear (if it has flake), then the base colors, followed by the fiberglass? Am I close?

    Cool stuff.....
    Layton Strong
    Nitro State Team

  17. Member KCLOST's Avatar
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    #17
    I thought I would post a little update on my Flake. The flake has multiple colors in it. So I believe any background gel will work. It has black flake in it which explains what I thought might be the background color...

    Just and FYI...
    Layton Strong
    Nitro State Team

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    #18
    Awesome thread guys!

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    #19
    following. Awesome info

  20. Member
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    #20
    will definitaly try this ,thanks

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