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  1. Member
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    #41
    Thanks to both of you. Its always good to hear positive things about it I suppose. I started on it in October and wish I was a bit further along with it(as in finished). I don't have any idea whatsoever about what to do for color yet. Other then that I don't think it's getting re-gelled. Ideas are always welcome. I thought to maybe to just stay with its currents color patern though.
    As for the pateince part of it. I'm runnin out of it. Yesterday while trying to fabricate my port side stringer I think I climbed in an out of the boat at least 20 times. Stepping over the stringer jig. Getting inside of the boat and forgeting something then having to climb back out again. All to ruin the stringer. It's that kind of stuff that is testing my patience. But I guess I wiil learn from It better that way.
    Well, I'm headed out right now to start over on the stringer fab. Hopefully I can get it right this time and post some pics for you all.
    Thanks for the encouragement!!!

  2. Member
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    #42
    Another day, another bad stringer. I'm gonna have to re-think this for sure.

  3. Member
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    #43
    Well after a few tries, I managed to get one stringer made. Hopefully I can just mirror image the other one, put a slight bevel into both of them and they will be good to go.
    I was using the most complete stringer as a template to build my first stringer by. There was a very slight bow upward starting at the transition section of the old stringers. I thought this was a bit strange. Why would the upper surface have even a slight bow in it? Did it have something to do with the way the floor height matched with the fit of the cap? Both of the old stringer peices matched perfectly to one another, including the slight bow. So I went with it. Twice! But no matter what I tried, the bottom contour or the new stringer would bottom out against the bottom of the hull before the transition and then there would be about 1/2 inch gap between the hull and stringer in the transition. Then I would begin to trim small amounts from the bottom of the stringer to gain the proper floor height. Before you know it, the stern portion of the stringer was way too thin in height and the stringer was ruined.
    After thinking of every dang thing I could, I decided to put blocks under each of the stern corners of the hull and get the boat completely bottom free from the trailer. I raised the entire hull about 1 inch off of the bunks and drove the keel shoring back toward the stern a few inches to bring the bow up some more. Then with the next stringer, I cut the bottom portion before the transition to match the old stringer but tipped the surface with the transition down to acheive a completely flat upper surface but maintain the the correct upward bend in the transition.
    I put the stringer in and it lined up near perfectly the first time. I measured the floor height dropping points that I had pre-measured before demo from my cross braces and they hit dead on the first time.
    My theory as to what happened here. First of all, no matter how long the trailer bunks are, or wether they are positioned beneath transom or not, this will not do for proper support. At least in this case. Second, with a boat that is over 30 years old, the stresses of the bow of the boat being pulled into the mount on the trailer and the stern portion riding on bunks, the forward section of the hull was left to support itself, and after years of being under its own weight, the stringers bowed slightly upward and were set free to stay that way when I cut them away from the hull. Third, and back again to thinking I could do this with the hull sitting on the bunks of the trailer, when I put the weight of the hull onto the stern corners and pushed the keel shoring back far enought to raise the hull a full inch off the trailer, the bottom of the hull formed back into it's position again not having the trailer bunks to hold it up.
    So I've only been the owner of this boat for not even a year so I don't know how it's really supposed to perform but I wonder if the hull had a hook in it and it just wasn't severe enough yet to cause the porpoising effect that I've heard it can do.
    So just for those of you reading this post that didn't already know this, do not attempt a rebuild while the hull is on the trailer no matter how much of bottom surface is supported by the trailer bunks. You will probably waste a bunch of time and ruin a bunch of very expensive wood in the process just like I did. But who knows, maybe not.

    Thanks all and here's a few more pics...

    DSC_0181.jpgDSC_0184.jpgDSC_0183.jpgDSC_0182.jpgDSC_0185.jpg

  4. Member
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    #44
    Here's what she looked like prior to the guttin...

    IMG_20130704_190513.jpgIMG_20130704_190448.jpgIMAG0024.jpg
    Last edited by maryhannaj; 01-15-2014 at 12:31 AM.

  5. Member
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    #45
    I got the other stringer built to mirror the first one and temped it into place. It seemed to line up as it should. So I temped them both in at the same time and the both seemed to measure out good with each other. There is very slight difference in height on the level from the port to starboard sides, but it's even from front to back. I dug a bit deeper into it for a while to find that the starboard side of the hull is blocked up about 3/16 higher than the port side. My cross braces aren't perfectly even either so I think all I can do is get it as close as I possibly can and go with it. Being that all of the measurments are within 1/8 of an inch to each other to being dead on in some spots, I hope it will be ok. The level bubbles all fall within the lines from side to side and from front to back at all 6 points of measurment as well. I do also have to compensate for the differences in fiberglass build-up that were in some of my measurement areas and the fiberglass build-up that will be there once things are glassed back in. The glass that came out of the hull was not as thick as the 1708 biaxial with the 3/4 mat that I am using to reinstall and there was no chopped strand mat of any kind either when the stringers and ribs came out.
    I need a break from measuring and cutting for just a bit so I used my 4.5 angle grinder with a 40 grit resin fiber disc to open up some of the new glass and resin I have put on the stern area of the hull bottom and on the transom. The plan for tomorrow is to try and wipe down the hull and lay-up a single layer of 1708 biaxial with 3/4 mat throughout the entire hull bottom at least up to the gunwales so I can get that one step closer to re-installing the stringers and ribs. If that goes well, maybe I will be able to do some more glass work on the transom and join the stringer halfs together so that they will be dry enough to wipe with resin by Sunday. It's all gonna have to go real smooth for that plan to work out though.
    So I was hoping maybe you guys could give me some ideas for building a rod locker and some forward deck storage compartments, small bait boxes or stuff that will work better than what I had before. I was thinking about raisng the forward deck height, extending the deck back and having a step begin at the console. Please keep in mind that this hull had a keel storage compartment before demo and not much else other than a carpeted board that was added by the previous owner to extend the forward casting deck a bit. I have seen a few pics of newer bass boats but I don't have as much room to work with being that the hull is only 16 ft long. I can't find any detailed ideas on how a rod locker is supposed to be set up either. I am also curious to know if there is a way the newer boats are built to drain water from the forward deck when it starts coming up into the boat. This is a problem I have here where I like to fish for the Wiper bass. The water gets rough real fast and sometimes it takes a while to get off to the marina.
    Here's a video I made on Willard Bay that will give an idea of what deck space I have to work with.

    Any ideas would really be appreciated. Pics would be great too. Thanks everyone.

  6. Member vausoner's Avatar
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    #46
    Man you do a lot of typing Im kind of in the same boat persay. I am cutting out my passenger console and building a rod locker in my front deck and some different compartments. Just now getting my floor glassed in so I can put the top cap back on and begin the build. As far as some help Im not sure. Im kinda conquering one step at a time since its kind of a fly by the seat of my pants thing. No real plan set in stone. So when I get that far I will see what fits best.
    Jason
    2015 Phoenix 919 225 ProXs

  7. Member
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    #47
    Thanks man. Will you post some pics of how you're doin it?

  8. Member vausoner's Avatar
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    #48
    I will. I need to update my thread. I might tonight with some pictures.
    Jason
    2015 Phoenix 919 225 ProXs

  9. Member
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    #49
    Nice. I'll look for it. What's the title?

  10. Member
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    San Jose, California
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    #50
    thanks for posting all those pic, i have a 1981 hpv 165. Making me think twice about this full restore.

  11. New England Forum Moderator twitch's Avatar
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    New Bedford, MA
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    #51
    maryhannaj, I have to give you kudos to your re-build it is a great follow along story with all the pics. Your lucky to have a garage big enough to do this in and can't wait for more pics as you continue this project
    1990 374V Ranger Still kickin' bass after all these years

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