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  1. #1
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    Yamaha 130 V4 Project Build.

    Thought I would share my 130 build with you guys since there is not a whole lot of information out there on these.

    I have a stock powerhead 1994 Yamaha 130 on a 13' Biel tunnel hull that I believe is the fastest stock 4 cylinder pleasure at 84.5mph on GPS with no current helping.

    Awhile back I had the water pressure gauge hose break under the cowling. The motor injected quite a bit of water and a subsequent compression test showed I was 20psi low on #4. Luckily I had just picked up a like new freshwater block with plans to eventually build a hotrod V4.

    Hmmm....somethings missing on #4! Still made 105psi.

    IMAG1175.jpg

    I have been talking to all the usual suspects about doing the porting, balancing, etc. Gordon from Monty Racing got the job mainly because he attends the events I attend and knows how I run the boat and will usually be around if I have any issues/questions. He also is close by. These motors are VERY similar to the V4 OMC's and OMC is his specialty.

    We decided to go with a moderate fingerport build with about a 8000rpm goal. I tend to put a lot of hours/miles on and typically will run 100+ miles a day when I am out. I wanted reliable power.

    Here are some pics of the work so far. The turnaround time has been very quick and I need to tear my old motor down as the flywheel is getting lightened and all rotating getting balanced.

    Gordon has been sending me pics and info about the project as it progresses. I asked if it were ok if I shared them via some of the forums and he was fine with it.



















    Heads cut and the angle changed a bit to Monty's specs. Should be about 145psi (pump gas motor)



    Intake side stuffed with epoxy. I have been running Chris Carsons reeds for a couple years with reed block stuffers from the Yamaha 220 Special as well thanks to Wayne at Hydrotec



    I should have the block back tomorrow and will take some finished pics.
    Last edited by Mr. Demeanor; 06-23-2013 at 01:36 PM.

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    #2
    The pistons are Vertex coated and Gordon has them done up to match the fingerports. I will post some pictures of them as well.

    Roehrs Machine shop is right down the road and they can dynamic balance my rotating assembly. I just need to get it over there....

    This is my busy season so I doubt I will have this running before August but will update as the project progresses. I am expecting low 90mph range...maybe a 95.

    The boat is a 13' Biel tunnel hull. One of only five ever built designed by Ron Jones.

    Couple pics and videos for good measure:

    Attachment 61173

    Attachment 61174

    Attachment 61175

    I currently spin a 30 pitch ET to 6800rpm using a Yamaha Inshore gearcase with a skeg modified similar to a Merc Sportmaster skeg. Water is supplied via a cutom transom mounted water pickup allowing me to run the VERY high. This was my 84.5mph run viewed from the transom just above the tunnel.
    Last edited by Mr. Demeanor; 06-23-2013 at 01:38 PM.

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    #3
    I know its not a bass boat but thought some of you running these motors would like to see what ind of performance can be had.

  4. Xpress Boats Moderator
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    #4
    Thanks for posting! I've been keeping an eye on you thread over on S&F to see how your comming along,and your little rig is pretty impressive.Can't wait to see how it runs after you get it back together.

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    #5
    Thanks. Was starting to think nobody was in here :-)

  6. Xpress Boats Moderator
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Demeanor View Post
    Thanks. Was starting to think nobody was in here :-)
    It kind of seems like it at times,but i'm shure there is several set of eyes that just look,and doesn't post.What you don't know is over on the Xpress forum we've been chatting about your lower unit that your running,and that your the only guy i've found that owns one!! They must have only made like 3 of those,and 2 of them got ripped off from hitting a stump,and your is the only one left! I've been battling water pressure issues on my Pro-V115,and i think i've finally got it fixed by building custom scoops instead of the factory grates.The pressure is fine with the stock grates as long as the propshaft is 4 1/2" or deeper below pad,but my boat likes it at
    2 1/2" below and pressure goes to crap.
    Since you already put C.C. reeds and stuffers in your motor,how much did each one of those help on your 130? As soon as i get a little free time i'm planning on adding those and Hydrotec heads and tuner to my motor to pep it up a little.

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    #7
    The biggest improvment I made to my stock motor was stuffing the front of he block with epoxy. I had already added the reeds which helped, then added the 220 special rubber stuffers that fit alongside the reed cages. The stuffers helped a lot but when I epoxied the front half, it was like a different motor.
    I used PC7 epoxy which is a thick 1:1 mix and did it with the powerhead mounted and the intake removed (obviously). No change in top speed but holeshot and throttle response felt like I added two cylinders.
    IMAG0335.jpg IMAG0337.jpg

    On you water pressure issue, Merc uses a rubber grommet right above the waterpump to help seal off water that leaks out around the drive shaft. Get one. Clean your driveshaft with aceton removing all the grease. Slide the Merc grommet down on top of the waterpump and glue it in place with a little Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. You will pick up a good amount of pressure IMO.
    This is a pic I took after installing the grommet. Before, there was a lot of water that escaped around the driveshaft. The Yamaha pumps just dont seal around the driveshaft well in my experience.
    I had pressurized the pump with a hose hooked to the hose I have for feeding the waterpump with water from my transom mounted pickup.
    IMAG1148.jpg

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    #8
    The boat handles MUCH better with the Inshore gearcase. The gearcase casting is twice as thick where you can see it around the carrier (where the V4 cases tend to crack).

  9. Xpress Boats Moderator
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    #9
    Thank you for the pictures and info on the water pressure! That would explain why when i run the motor on the hose,it seems like a lot of water is comming out all the upper drain holes on the lower unit.

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    #10
    Very interesting project , keep posting , would be interested in part # for the rubber stuffers from the 220 hp and the Merc seal for the drive shaft ??

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    #11
    Flywheel is almost done.


    IMAG1199.jpg

    IMAG1198.jpg
    Last edited by Mr. Demeanor; 07-03-2013 at 09:58 PM.

  12. Member cwilt's Avatar
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    #12
    that vid is crazy..that prop is halfway out of the water.....i am keeping up on this thread.
    2008 Ranger 178VX
    150 Yamaha V-max

    GO Fins!!!

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    #13
    Tore the 13 down today. Gotta love little motors. Stripped the powerhead and lifted the block off without a hoist!

    Got a lot done today. Gotta love being able to pull a powrhead without a hoist!

    This is what I found. The motor was WAY rich. It was good on the top end but I hate these carbs and never did get the midrange dialed in. I might be close now with all the motor work.
    The windows in the sleeves are very poorly aligned with the ports. I dont know if this is typical but really stood out to me.









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    #14
    Just having Gordon line all that up has to be a HUGE improvemnt. Its hard to imagine this motor ran 84.5mph.

    Here is the piston that broke. Pretty obvious from the carbon on the break that I ran like this for awhile.


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    #15
    Here is the most interesting thing I found and would love to here some Yamaha guru input

    The exhaust plate on the right is the 130 and the left is the 115. Not only is the stock exhaust port height on the 115 higher than the 130, the runners in the 115 plate are wider, deeper, and have a nicer curve. To me, the 115 plate looks like it would flow a LOT better



    115 plate sitting on the block as it would be mounted:



    130 plate sitting on the same block:


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    #16

  17. Xpress Boats Moderator
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Demeanor View Post
    Here is the most interesting thing I found and would love to here some Yamaha guru input

    The exhaust plate on the right is the 130 and the left is the 115. Not only is the stock exhaust port height on the 115 higher than the 130, the runners in the 115 plate are wider, deeper, and have a nicer curve. To me, the 115 plate looks like it would flow a LOT better



    115 plate sitting on the block as it would be mounted:



    130 plate sitting on the same block:


    This makes me wonder how the HydroTec plate compares to both of these.To me,i can see the 130 would have a more direct path for the exhaust to flow instead of hitting the wall in the curve of the 115 port. What i've always been told is,the sharper a bend is,the more it restricts flow,so that's my guess. Your block,flywheel,and internals look really nice!Can't wait to see how it runs.

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    #18
    double post.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    #19
    Just updating. Its been a very busy summer and I have had a few delays.
    The rotating assembly is at Falicon crankshsafts waiting on some parts needed to balance.


    Did some more work on the intake. Really straightened out the runners and removed almost all the sharp corners. Going back in with epoxy today and filling the remaining corners. This should be a big improvement.


    Before:
    IMAG1421.jpg


    After:
    IMAG1422.jpg

    Intake and cages are done.


    Stock vs. cut reed cages and intake with epoxy in the corners to elimnate dead zones in the airflow.

    IMAG1444.jpg IMAG1449.jpg IMAG1438.jpg

  20. Member cwilt's Avatar
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    #20
    nice! whats that black coating on the cages and intake? aslo what are you expecting ( hp) out of that V4???
    2008 Ranger 178VX
    150 Yamaha V-max

    GO Fins!!!

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