Is there any other switches out there to use for a hand controlled motor,the bigfoot switches always wear out and start to work sporadically for me wondering if there is something else out there to use?????
Is there any other switches out there to use for a hand controlled motor,the bigfoot switches always wear out and start to work sporadically for me wondering if there is something else out there to use?????
1990 374V Ranger Still kickin' bass after all these years
Surefoot looks very close to the Bigfoot, but it supposed to be a higher amp rating on the switch. I think its rated for 50amps vs 30amps? on the bigfoot.
The SureFoot from T & H Marine is rated for 50 amps. I have 3 of them on my boat that have lasted for a very long time. They seem better made than the BigFoot switch.
Disassemble the Bigfoot switch. Inside is a copper cone with a rivet on top. Silver solder the rivet to the cone, and after it cools reassemble it. Reassemble. It will work a lot longer.
I have had a hand control TM on my two Rangers. My first boat was rigged with T & H Marine FCS-2 switches, but when I got my latest Ranger it came rigged with Bigfoot switches. The Bigfoot switches wear out much faster, usually because the rubber boot dry rots. On the FCS-2 T & H switches, the rubber boot is protected by a hard plastic outer shell. When my Bigfoot switches wear out (and it doesn't look too far down the road), I will replace them with T & H FCS-2 switches.
"The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments
Is there an Electrician on here? "Surefoot" trolling motor switches are rated for 50 amps and are supposed to be used on 12/24 volt systems. I have used these switches on 36 volt trolling motors in the past without any problems. Now, I can't keep one working. I put a brand new switch on my boat and it didn't make it through the day. It kept the current running through the switch, therefore the trolling motor ran constantly.
What is the deal here? Is the wire gauge too small? Are the copper contacts inside of the switch too thin? What does it take to have a switch that works all of the time?
Be safe,
Rayzor
2001 Triton Tx-21
2001 Mercury 225 EFI
Reply With Quote