I have a 389 te Javelin 94, with a 175 rude, will I hve to remove the motor to install the cables, I know I should do hydro too expensive, info would be appreciated ds
I have a 389 te Javelin 94, with a 175 rude, will I hve to remove the motor to install the cables, I know I should do hydro too expensive, info would be appreciated ds
No you shouldn't have to remove the motor. The just run down the inside and come out in the splash well. I would probably tie the new ones on to the old one when I pull them out.
Good luck!
bhougham has obviously never installed steering cables.
It is quite unusual to be able to replace manual rack & pinion steering cables without unbolting the motor. Usually there isn't enough clearance space between the steering tubes and the splashwell boot. You can get the old cables out by cutting the cable between the steering tube and the splashwell. This will allow easy removal of the rods from the tubes and the cable from the boat separately.
Getting new cables in place is the part that typically requires the motor to be unbolted. Unless the cables exit the hull a LONG way from the steering tubes, there isn't going to be room to maneuver them from the hull into the tubes.
Thanks for the come back so quickly, but I have two opposite answers, what is the usual cost in installing the cables, I know the cables are 450
If you try unscrewing the cables at the motor youll see what hes talking about. The shielding doesnt have enough room to be pushed down far enough to get the connection apart.
Im in the same .......er ..... boat (situation)
Originally Posted by TXguy201
It is quite unusual to be able to replace manual rack & pinion steering cables without unbolting the motor. Usually there isn't enough clearance space between the steering tubes and the splashwell boot. You can get the old cables out by cutting the cable between the steering tube and the splashwell. This will allow easy removal of the rods from the tubes and the cable from the boat separately.
Getting new cables in place is the part that typically requires the motor to be unbolted. Unless the cables exit the hull a LONG way from the steering tubes, there isn't going to be room to maneuver them from the hull into the tubes.
Then either I am a freak of nature or my Ranger is.... I have in fact replaced the cables without un bolting the motor. It really wasn't that big of a deal.
Rack n pinion steering ? Like i said .... I cant get the connection apart at the motor.
Please explain how .....
Johnny
It's been a while since I did it. I replace the whole system with a No Feedback rack system. I can't remember if I cut the old cable off or not. I did however install without removing the motor.
As I said...."It is quite unusual to be able to..." which does leave room for an uncommon exception since I've not inspected every boat out there. The vast majority of bass boats do not have the room to do it. If the OP provided a photo, we could probably give a good indication of the chance one way or the other. The odss are stacked very heavily against it.
If you can get a new one in (which isn't normal) then obviously you'd be able to get the old one out also. Even still, many shops cut them because it just makes it easier, and cutting is quick with the right tool. The first time I was going to do one 25 years ago I didn't have air tools, so I figured I'd just cut it with a hacksaw. I must say that I was very amused with my idea after several minutes of scratching on the cable with a hacksaw. Yes, iI was using a new blade, but that idea just wasn't going to happen.
The boat is a 1994 Javelin 389 Te, teleflex has two types of steering, rack and pinion and a round nfb system which do you recommend
and what is the usual cost to install, the motor is a rude 175 on a 6 inch jack plate
Last edited by dshirley; 05-01-2013 at 12:32 PM.
If your helm is good pull your old cables and get the part numbers off of them. Then order just the cables and you can save some $$$$ and have them installed at a local shop if necessary. I installed new cables not a new system on my champ early this winter. I did not have to pull the motor because I have a six inch JP. With out the JP I would of had to pull it. It took some work but they went in very tight and I had to raise the JP all the way up to make as much room from the cable boot to the motor. Others are correct you will most likely have to pull the motor. Pulling the motor is easy if you have the proper tools. If not route the new cables yourself and then take it to a specialist and have them pull the motor hook the cable ends up and bolt the motor back up to the boat. You should only be looking at a hour of labor if you have the cables already ran and out the boot on the back. Best of luck, get back on the water soon.
Having your engine on a jackplate definitely improves the situation. This is because the engine can now be unbolted from the jackplate if necessary instead of unbolting from the transom. The engine to jackplate connection is just bolts, so there is no sealant joint to be concerned with. Also, nothing else has to be disconnected (like fuel or wiring harness). The engine just gets pivoted a bit to get the new cable rod ends into the steering tubes.
ksubasser24 had an excellent idea for a compromise. You could cut the old cables, remove them, put the new ones thru the hull from the rear and attach to the helm. Then, all you pay a shop to do is unbolt the engine and complete the installation at the rear. They will have the proper lift ring and hoist to do that easily and safely, whereas you may not.
Go with what you have now for steering so you keep your helm. Given the brand and year, I'm 99% positive it's a Teleflex dual cable rack and pinion. If you look under the dash and see two "bars" about 16 inches long bolted to the helm shaft then you are looking at dual cable rack and pinion. You will likely find part numbers on those cables under the dash.
Thanks I appreciate your input
haveme, post a photo of what you have. At the engine, the cables have rods on the end of the cable that are quite long. You have to unscrew the retaining nut at the black cable sheath, but you probably won't be able to get them out of there because the cables are SO stiff and there is usually not enough clearance. That's why the cables are often cut between the cable boot and the engine. To cut, use an air-driven carbide cutting wheel tool. I've done other posts on this topic.....
what you'll spend on cables and a possible new helm etc. your half way there to hydralic steering. bite the bullet and you'll be much happier and it easier to install
Last edited by calfish1; 05-03-2013 at 12:32 AM.
My view is that a pair of cables takes a lot less time than a complete conversion to hydraulic steering. (I've done both.) I'm also not sure that 2 cables equals half the cost of a hydraulic system. He should not need a new helm, so the comparison isn't for system vs. system, it's for 2 cables vs. hydraulic system. For instance, I just found a pair of 12' cables for less than $300 delivered. An entire hydraulic system is a lot more than $600.
Last edited by TXguy201; 05-02-2013 at 02:15 PM.
I am dropping the helm and looking for numbers, I hope the helm is ok, its a tilt, and a hydro unit is 899, cables are 312
I bought the nfb from black bear for $400. I put mine in last night arms are a little sore but it took me three hours. I did not pull my engine either
Phoenix 919 pro xp
Replaced mine on my Pantera 2. Didn't even come close to having to take the motor off. Can't speak for his boat though.
It is quite unusual to be able to replace manual rack & pinion steering cables without unbolting the motor. Usually there isn't enough clearance space between the steering tubes and the splashwell boot. You can get the old cables out by cutting the cable between the steering tube and the splashwell. This will allow easy removal of the rods from the tubes and the cable from the boat separately.
Getting new cables in place is the part that typically requires the motor to be unbolted. Unless the cables exit the hull a LONG way from the steering tubes, there isn't going to be room to maneuver them from the hull into the tubes.
FWIW, I replaced mine, and i had to unbolt the motor. Personally, if i were you, i would save my money and go hydro. It's safer, easier to run the hoses, and recommended for motors over 150.
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