What Tools Do You Use To Remove/Install Bearing Races?

[BoatNoobie]

I had this little small pipe thingy, that was originally a handle on a bottle jack. The end is beat to shit now knocking on the race. I tried my screw driver but now the tip is a little damaged. Not to mention, it doesn't really get a good "bite".

I eventually knocked the races out. Now to install the new races, I used a big ass socket that I got from NAPA. If I remember correctly, it's like 34MM or something like that. Big and heavy duty. I was also using a small lightweight hammer. I don't remember where it came from. Was just in my tool stash.

I was at Harbor Freight a while back and encountered this. I figure since they are designed to install races, it may work better than my large socket.
Any experience with something like this?

The reviews are pretty positive.
10 Piece Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set



Now removing the old races. I want a faster or easier way to remove the races. Will something like this work?
5 Piece Long Drive Pin Punch Set

I'm thinking the 3/8" sized punch should work. But I was hoping for something a little bit bigger to "bite" around the race.

[hooken203]

I have always used a long 3/8 punch to drive them out. Brass punch is safer wear safety glasses either way. Working all the way around the race if you can get at the back side of the race all the way around. That race and seal driver works well if you have one to put them back in. Pin punches have a raised area that fits inside a roll pin you might want to get a regular punch set. I have also used the old race to drive the new ones in. You can hammer on the old race because you don't care if you damage it.

[Jeff Hahn]

My great grandfather was a machinist. I have several of the tools he used for various tasks. One of them is steel, about 10 inches long, thin and flat sided, and has a flat tip about 1/8 inch wide. I've always used it to drive off and install races.

[Harry Simms]

I use a punch to drive them out also. I have a bearing and seal installer set similar to what you show, but I believe mine is the Lisle brand. The bearing installer set works much better than driving in with a socket, etc.

[csurp]

interested too

[BoatNoobie]

I have always used a long 3/8 punch to drive them out. Brass punch is safer wear safety glasses either way. Working all the way around the race if you can get at the back side of the race all the way around. That race and seal driver works well if you have one to put them back in. Pin punches have a raised area that fits inside a roll pin you might want to get a regular punch set. I have also used the old race to drive the new ones in. You can hammer on the old race because you don't care if you damage it.

Even though they are listed as "pin punch". They are flat. I hope the material is strong enough and wont chip or deform like my handle. They should really make a half-moon shape type chisel/punch. That would be perfect.

[MikeFloyd]

Another option is a machine shop. They will have the jigs to press the old races out and the new ones in. It shouldn't cost very much and you will have them in correctly.

[hooken203]

They really dont come out that hard so those punches should work. I take it you had a bearing failure so thats why you are replacing them?

[Mike21xl]

Before putting the new races in, put them in the frezzer for an hour or so. Then put the hub in an oven at 250 degrees for 15min. You`ll be surprised how easy they go in.

Mike

[jomo924]

buy a good brass punch to drive in new races ,,,i have installed more bearing races in my life then i care to remember ,,,use brass as it will not damage the new race or the hub and use a 3 or 4 lb hand sledge Mayhew 3 pc. Brass Drift Punch Set - Tools - Hand Tools - Punches & Awls

drive race evenly by tapping opposite sides alternately , go slow

[dazy_cutter_45]

Roll pin punches work just fine. The important thing is the race comes out and back in evenly, keep the punch moving side to side.

[Cray]

Even though they are listed as "pin punch". They are flat. I hope the material is strong enough and wont chip or deform like my handle. They should really make a half-moon shape type chisel/punch. That would be perfect.

Check NAPA or one of the tool trucks. They do make and sell a half moon tool just for driving out races. Going in Brass,Brass. And always wear safety glasses.

[dazy_cutter_45]

Whatever you use if you're having to beat the piss out of it to get it on something is wrong, the size or it's cocked.

[Unimog]

I use a set like the one shown to install races and a set of snap on bearing race punches to knock old ones out. They work very well.

[bilge rat]

A tapered punch is stiffer than the straight sided punches. Get a tapered punch with a 5/16" tip.

Next get a heavy hammer, at least 2lb a 3lbs one is better.

Lay the hub down on a solid surface to drive out the race at the bottom. That way all the force is directed at the race.

Get the race install kit, it is fast and puts them in straight.
Turn the installer to the flat side to put the seal in. It will go in easy without bending or crooked.

It takes longer to get the old grease out than to remove and install the races with the proper tools.

Do not reuse races if they have been removed.

[Jonestrollingmotor]

A screwdriver and a hollow bar is not a punch. Use a long punch and alternate sides to remove. To install, the kit is probably best. I have access to some "homemade" tools that work fine.

[BoatNoobie]

I use a set like the one shown to install races and a set of snap on bearing race punches to knock old ones out. They work very well.

You know what, while searching for your snap on bearing race punch. I learned there are "oval punches". Which I guess are made to knock out bearings, since they hide a bigger footprint on the edge of the race. I wish I would have known about those. But at the same time, they are $60 for a set, where as, the HF ones are only $10.

I will see how the HF works in Spring. If it doesn't work as well I would hope, I may order a set of thoe oval style.

I actually got a new spare Tie Down "Vortex" hub. It has the stock bearings/races. I bought brand new Timken bearing/race as spares. I may swap out TD's bearings and put the Timken in. Good idea? Or should I just keep the stock bearings in place.

I also picked up a 2.5lb sledge hammer looking thing. I believe this should help too...

[dazy_cutter_45]

Making a mountain out of a molehill guys. You are not gonna hurt a bearing race with whatever you use as long as you don't go Conan on it. Only important things, goes in straight and seats. Don't spend a ton of money to replace bearings 3 times in your life, bring your races and seal to a pawn shop and buy 3 $1 sockets and an extension. Set for life.

Thats if you gotta have something other than a punch.

[BigSlick]

i bought a set of punches from the autoparts for 25$ and i cut a slice in one of my old races that i use to knock in the new race. Works great

[cajunrgfm]

Brass punch out, aluminum install tool.