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  1. #1
    Hunting & Gun Lodge Moderator Roddy's Avatar
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    How to tune your bow

    Danny Hinton in this artical is the guy who helps me with my bows.

    How to Tune Your Bow: 15 Steps to Perfect Arrow Flight | Field & Stream
    Last edited by Roddy; 10-17-2012 at 10:03 AM.
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  3. Iowa/Wisconsin/Hunting & Gun Lodge/Stroker Moderator Wags's Avatar
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    #2
    Good read, thanks Roddy..

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    #3
    Thanks for sharing, great read!

  5. Member Capt Ray's Avatar
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    #4
    I would recommend one more item that will assure your bow is spot on. After paper tuning and walk back tuning you need to final tune your bow/arrow/broadhead combination. If your broadheads and field point hit the exact same spot out to30 yards you do not need any further tuning.

    Once you have your bow shooting spot on with your field points conduct the following. Shoot one field point at your target. Now aim at the same spot using the broadhead of choice that you will hunt with. If the broadhead does not hit the same spot as your field point then your REST (center shot) is off, not your sight. If your broadhead arrow hits left of your field point move your REST toward your field point in very small increments (1/16"). If it hits right then move the rest to the right. If it is hitting low/high adjust your knock point up/down.

    Continue until both field points and broadheads hit the same place. Donít worry about the arrow hitting the exact spot you are aiming at on the target, this will be adjusted later. Once both arrows hit the same spot then adjust your sight to bring point of impact on target. This process will 100% assure your bow/arrow/broadhead combo are tuned together.


    At this point I shoot every arrow I plan on hunting with a broadhead and mark them. This will assure you have no fliers in your hunting arrows. Now you can practice with your field points knowing that when you make the switch to your broadheads you will shoot exactly as you have been.

  6. BBC LifeTimeMember jimb175nc's Avatar
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    #5
    A very good read. I'm old school and do a few things differently. I check the straightness of my arrows by spinning them between both hands with the point on a hard surface, a fast spin. If the nock wobbles the arrow isn't straight or the nock is on crooked. Also after tuning I shoot a bare shaft (no fletching) at 10 yards. If the shaft enters the target straight and not at an angle the bow is tuned correctly and the arrow is spined correctly for the bow.
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    #6
    I paper tune in a very methodical way. I take 4 arrows that I know fly and group well. I remove the fletching from one. I then paper tune with a fletched arrow at 10 feet. I only try and get close at this distance as I realize it is still flexing. I then go to 21 feet and begin seriously paper tuning with a fletched arrow. When I get the tear as good as I can, I move to a 20 yard indoor range and shoot all 4 arrows at the same spot. If the fletched arrows hit lower than the unfletched arrow, I slightly lower my LimbDriver rest and shoot again. If they hit higher I do the opposite. I continue doing this until they all group together. Why do I do these things? It's simple. The unfletched arrow shows me where the bow wants to shoot. I want to work with, not against my bow. With a field tip you can easily guide your arrow with the fletching to a point where the bow really doesn't want to shoot. When you add a broadhead you now have an arrow with guidance at both ends. Each end wants to steer. Now it is important to shoot the arrow where the bow really wants to shoot. The arrow with the broadhead will shoot to the same spot as the unfletched arrow if both the fieldtip and broadhead weigh the same. Once this is done, walk back tuning is a waste of time. Don't believe me? Try my method and see if you can prove me wrong.
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  8. Member basscat21's Avatar
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    #7
    +1 on paper tune!