2008 20X2
What do i need to do to troubleshoot the panel. None of the bilge or livewell operations work. unplugging and re-plugging the panel you can hear the relay click like its getting power, but other than that nothing. The panel does have the backlighting working(the names of funtions glow) but none of the on indicators glow.
Is this one of those deals where you have to buy the whole panel or can someone work on em?
Last edited by Triton180DC; 08-10-2012 at 09:58 PM.
I have the same boat have not had issues so far as you describe, However I had a Ranger prevoiusly with Digital Dash and had the issue and yes I had to replace the entire panel. God Luck
Well I replaced the panel and it went fine. Its been in the garage about 3x weeks sitting in the garage and now when i hit the main power on button on the right, the bilge starts running. This may just be a stuck bilge switch or something, i dunno.
But Now i gotta figure this mess out. I guess that might have burnt out the last push panel possibly. I notice when i plugged it in, the panel barely lights on the timer indicator as its running, this also occurs on the bad one.
Does anyone know if this is normal to light when the auto bilge runs or do i have a bigger problem?
OK apparently something is fried, another switch panel bad perhaps? i dunno...
Does the digital switch panel control it all? or is there another set of timers and such inline with the wires?
Its not the auto bilge, its the regular bilge constantly running.
Pump Out doesnt work
Recirc is fine
timer seems to work
livewell function unk at this time?
will put it in the water tomorrow.
anyone have a photo or diagram of the layout of all the pumps for an x2
i assume the livewell stuff is forward and between.
Auto bilge in the back?
Bilge in the Back lowest portion?
Where would pump out be? or is that a function of the fill pumps?
Back from lake, Livewells work, recirc works, auto bilge works.
Bilge does run constant not working switch, pump out does not work......
OK, hooked pump outs from fuse panel to the recirc power. Both pump outs still work.
So is it right to assume its the "new" push pad switch panel thats already toast?
Whats between the push pads and the fuse panel? Anything? or are all controls and timers in the touchpad?
Is it the touchpad bad also>?
Last edited by Triton180DC; 08-11-2012 at 01:09 PM.
the only thing between the dash wiring harness and the circuit breaker is a plastic wiring connector. when i was installing my hds i had pulled on that connector just enough to break power to both panels, check there and even if it doesnt feel loose push it togther i did that and restored power. the connector and harness are located behind the rear rod holder and covered by a loose piece of fiber with carpet covering it........Originally Posted by Triton180DC
jack
08 21x2 250 proxs
USAF (retired)
CA
thanx ill check connectors in the middle.
Hello everyone I guess im the new guy... I picked up a 2008 TR20X2 DC and it runs great everything is functioning. My question is that the push pad controls needs to be changed out. The power to the dash is hard to turn on, once its on everything works. I spoke to my nearest dealer and he stated that the push pad that I was in search off, is out of inventory. Do anyone have any idea what is compatible to what I have or any other suggestions.
Call Carol at C&O Marine. They are a board sponsor so you can find the number in the sponsors forrum. They have pretty much anything you need for a Triton but I will warn you, those push pads are pricey. No, I take that back. They aren't pricey they are damned outrageous, no matter where you get them from!
And welcome to the BBC!
I'd try to change it over to the older type control switchs instead of the push buttons.
The push button pads are discontinued. You'll have to get the rotating knob panels. Yes, call Carol at C&O Marine. That's were I got my new panels but must warn you, exspect to cough up about $550.
You know, it's unreal that someone don't repair those push panels. They have relays on the back of them and that is most likely the problem with most of them. They should be repairable, if we could determine who made them and of course if they are still in business. I don't mind paying for what I get but the price to convert to the switches is rediciolusly high. You'd think Triton would provide the manufacturer information or some reasonable aftermarket solution. There are a lot of them out there and almost across the board they all fail sooner or later, It's just a matter of time.
I asked the same question as to why it couldn't be repaired. I was told, basically, the back part is one big relay and it's sealed. No way to replace just one button. It was a bad design and that's why it was discontinued.
You may try disconnecting everything from the cranking battery, they could re-set themselves.
Check this site, you have to dig a little but they have the command modules and push button plates.
https://www.greatlakesskipper.com/ca...?p=26&q=triton
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