Moving right along!!!

[OverRHeads]

Got the new reeds in the package with my "CLEAN" injectors from Don. I spent the day last Saturday lapping reed blocks. That turned out to be a bigger job than I expected but the results were fantastic! I installed the TDR reeds on the blocks and they sealed perfectly!



I also read a post lately where Don suggested cleaning the final filter in the fuel pressure regulator on the VST. Since I haven't installed the VST back on the motor I decided to check the filter. I am including pictures of what I found on the filter. Glad I got it cleaned out before I got it all reassembled and had a problem down the road!

[VictorM.]

Cleaned my Filter the other day and it looked about as bad..
I hope to be sending my injectors and reeds off to Don soon...

[EuropeanAM]

Looks like you're moving right along.

[03TritonBill]

where exactly is that filter located?

[Snoopy Rod]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by 03TritonBill &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">where exactly is that filter located?</td></tr></table>

x2

[OverRHeads]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by 03TritonBill &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">where exactly is that filter located?</td></tr></table>



You don't need to remove the Oetiker clamp or the hose. Simply remove the screws and take the brass assembly off and the dome filter is inside the brass cavity.

[EuropeanAM]

Thanks for the nice picture/explanation!

I'm going to pin this into the "Commonly Asked- Commonly Used" Sticky Post, for Future Reference.

[njj502]

My 225 screen was prob twice as bad! What i dont get is we get this trash AFTER the spin on filter...

Im still having issues with mine @ WOT. Im actually going to remove the vst and go to a hp pump, regulator, return &the filter down in the boat. Figured why not!

[EuropeanAM]

I do not like the "VST removal"- as there are substantial BENEFITS to the VST with today's fuels.

Have you performed the following:

http://www.bbcboards.net/mercury-3-l...ulb-first.html

-Checked fuel pressure running, under acceleration, and 5-15-30 seconds after engine shutdown? Results?

-Had injectors CLEANED, serviced and calibrated? (www.europeanmarine.org/injectorservice.html)

-Confirmed appropriate, QL77CC Spark Plugs?

-Performed a SPARK TEST WHILE the engine is acting up?

[njj502]

Don,

Not to hyjack this thread but to answer your questions

I run 87 octane no ethanol fuel and bump it with a few gallons of 110 just for protection. My 3L is now premix and I run abotu 40-45:1 with Penz Premium Plus oil.

Primer bulb and fuel line replaced last year with new merc stuff with the blue lettering

Fuel pressure last year was high. 39PSI at idle before cleaning the screen. Have not checked at WOT afterwords but ran good now has gone to pot again. Screen is still clean but need to check the line off the regulator for leaks.

Brucato did the injectors last year after I bought the boat. I also installed CCM reeds, laped the cages and did all the sync adjustments while I was there. I built a harness to do the TPS and it's spot on.

New QL77CC plugs, twice.

Kinda hard to do a spark test running 75+ down the water..... ;)

I agree, I like the VST but in my application I'd like to ditch it as eventually I plan to build this motor. Hoping to be 300+ HP and I want very precise fuel control.

Can you explain the benifits of having the VST with todays fuel? My issue is a rich condition at WOT. It runs pretty good at ~4000-5000RPM but when you get up to 5500-6000 at WOT it starts to stumble a bit. I talked to Eric Simon about doing my ECM's (300x ignition curves, 6500 limiter & 250xb fuel curve) but he didn't think the ECMs were the problem.

Thanks for the thoughts, mate.
Nick

[EuropeanAM]

Nick:

By definition, the VST is the "Vapor Separator Tank". It's function is to ensure a constant supply of LIQUID fuel to the high-pressure fuel pump. Today's low-quality fuels have a tendency to vaporize at VERY low temperatures in the fuel inlet line (where they're under LOW pressure, or vaccum). The VST helps to remove/purge the vapors, ensuring that true "liquid fuel" is supplied to the high pressure pump and fuel rail.

Curious if you've checked the WOT TPS reading. Some 1996 and prior models (specifically with the smaller tuner) were proned to WOT loss of power due to a rich running condition (not necessarily all the time, either). This was usually noted by an engine that performed poorly at WOT, but would gain RPM's and speed if you backed the throttle down to about 7/8 throttle.

If this is the case.... a SIMPLE fix is available (by simply resetting the WOT stop screw to attain a TPS reading of 2.90-2.98 at WOT). Do not alter the TPS adjustment (it should already be set to achieve a reading of approximately .95VDC at idle).

[njj502]

Don, I follow you 100%. With all said above, let me ask this, what about the 260/280 product where the pump is in the boat? I understand there is a bleed port on the rail and all. Also, remember I don't run ethanol gas.

I have noticed sometimes (and I've read the service bulliten) that if I back out of it just a red hair or so It'll pick up RPM, and you are right it don't do it all the time. So basically you limit the max open position of the butterflys to only obtain 2.9-2.98 TPSv at WOT? hmmmmm.... how much does that actually close it since WOT is 3.9V?

Let's throw this into the mix, I've got a cut tuner on it. Went through a bunch of crap trying to diagnose this.... at one time I thought I had a plugged up tuner (which it was partially) so while I was there I cut the leg off it. It now is only as long as the "megaphone" part of the tuner. All that being said .... instead of bringing my butterfly open limit down why not just slam a 4 butterfly intake on it and be done with it? I'd have to pick up a few HP with it and then that would probably give me reason to cut the heads to yield ~125-130PSI.

Keep in mind, 75% of the time I don't even have a trolling motor on the boat. It's my family hot rod for now..... dangit I think I misplaced my STV!

Thanks for the convo. Interesting stuff!
Nick

[EuropeanAM]

Noticed you edited your previous post... that's why the recommendation to check the WOT settings on the TPS. Since you've now indicated you're considering a 4-butterfly intake (appeared you already had one before editing).... moving to the 4-butterfly intake would likely be a wise choice.

I don't cut the 3L tuners.... has little or no effect (other than making more noise).

260-280 engines weren't built as recreational models. They're RACE engines, through and through. Not nearly as likely to see vapor problems in their intended (racing) application.

[njj502]

Edited due to a few things including the thought after I typed of adding a 4 shutter vs closing up the 2 shutter. Is it true that the early 3L EFIs go WAAAAAY rich over X RPM? If so that might be part of my problem b/c I'm right up against the limiter for the most part.

Some noise is good in my book. I won't argue it's LOUD now but I've made a plate to cover up the exhaust reliefs where the gearcase bolts to the mid. Makes it quite nice on "family" days.

Most all 3L are not race engines either but we all race em from time to time, right????

I know the 225 isn't the right choice for a higher HP build but that's what makes it more interesting. Again, good conversation and thanks for all the thoughts, Don.

Nick

[vanellies]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by 03TritonBill &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">where exactly is that filter located?</td></tr></table>



You don't need to remove the Oetiker clamp or the hose. Simply remove the screws and take the brass assembly off and the dome filter is inside the brass cavity.

Where would this screen be located on a 2004 225 EFI motor? SN 0T946843

[EuropeanAM]

Where would this screen be located on a 2004 225 EFI motor? SN 0T946843

It's located under the OUTLET NIPPLE (between the high pressure fuel pump and the nipple) on this engine model.