250 Pro XS and HB 1198 Interference Issue

[mxrcr4]

I have an 1198 on my Ranger 521 VX. I was using the standard transducer that came with it and had no issues. I wanted to upgrade to the in hull transducer and Y cable to have sonar at speed. Got all of that installed by my dealer and when my outboard (2011 Mercury 250 Pro XS) is running the interference is horrible, making the unit useless. I took it back to them and they said they fixed it, however when I took it out to try, I found out all they did was turn sonar from max to clear and reduce sensitivity. I was testing it in 20+ foot and 15 foot depths. Here are a few pictures. The first two are on max and the second two are on clear. How do I fix?!?

[tellis]

Call Humminbird customer service and explain the situation. They have chokes specifically designed to reduce or eliminate interference. I had trolling motor interference and with their interference kit installed eliminated it altogether.

[oiltech09]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by tellis &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Call Humminbird customer service and explain the situation. They have chokes specifically designed to reduce or eliminate interference. I had trolling motor interference and with their interference kit installed eliminated it altogether.</td></tr></table>

Yep a choke will eliminate the electrical noise. We normally try to keep power wiring separate from signal wiring to avoid these type of issues. Good luck

[EuropeanAM]

Do you know where the unit is being powered from (specifically)?

[mxrcr4]

Yes, it is hooked to a power block under the dash. But it is the same place that it has been powered even from way back when I had an 1197 and this new 1198 before the extra transducer and Y cable was installed along with the new Mercury motor and wire harness adapter. Everything was perfect before all this I will try and find a few pics from then to show as well.

[mxrcr4]

Here are a couple taken before this issue started. All settings are the same on the 1198 as they are now.

[mxrcr4]

Here are two I took yesterday after fooling around with it some more and hooking a ground from the trolling batteries to the cranking battery. Sensitivity is at 10. First pic is on Max, second show Max and Clear after changing to Clear. It was the same when I hooked each transducer directly to the 1198 as well as when I used both with the Y cable. Even brought my 998 from the front and hooked it up, same results.

[EuropeanAM]

Let's check a couple of SIMPLE things, just to rule them out:

1. CHECK BATTERY CONNECTIONS. They must be CLEAN, with the ENGINE CABLES INSTALLED FIRST, remaining lugs LARGEST TO SMALLEST, and finish off with a STAINLESS LOCKNUT (do NOT use wing-nuts). Any other configuration will likely cause problems with the engine and/or accessories. DO NOT tie items between trolling and engine batteries.

2. If problem persists- DISCONNECT your "bank charger" leads from the cranking battery, and isolate them with tape. See if the problem persists.

3. Test for AC Current between the battery terminals with engine running at idle. There should be NO MORE than .25VAC present.


The above should rule out a cross-feed of power supply, or interference at the battery itself.

[mxrcr4]

1. CHECK BATTERY CONNECTIONS. They must be CLEAN, with the ENGINE CABLES INSTALLED FIRST, remaining lugs LARGEST TO SMALLEST, and finish off with a STAINLESS LOCKNUT (do NOT use wing-nuts). Any other configuration will likely cause problems with the engine and/or accessories. DO NOT tie items between trolling and engine batteries.

I did do this. Everything in there is spotless clean and all batteries are new several months ago. All have nuts no wing-nuts. Also largest to smallest.

2. If problem persists- DISCONNECT your "bank charger" leads from the cranking battery, and isolate them with tape. See if the problem persists.

Will add that to the list of things to do today on the water testing.

3. Test for AC Current between the battery terminals with engine running at idle. There should be NO MORE than .25VAC present.

Will add checking this while on water also.

Thanks for the tips, I will report results!

[mxrcr4]

Okay, here is what I tried today:

1. Hooked up to an extra accessory battery. No change.

2. Unkooked ALL cables to outboard battery except motor and ignition cables. No change.

3. Disconnected the charger and taped cable ends. No change.

4, Disconnected Talon cables and taped ends. No change.

5. Tried Noise Filter settings low, medium, high 1, high 2, and high 3. No change.

6. Unhooked trollimg motor batteries all together. No change.

7. Already ruled out transducers, Y cable, and the unit itself. No change.

8. Completely removed and re-routed ALL transducer and Y cables. No change.

I am out of ideas and have tried everything I searched and found and what has been suggested. Very frustrated. What do I try next? I still have not contacted HB as I wanted to be completely out of go back and try this stuff before asking them to help.


First 2 pictures are the results today.





Also, my bow unit 998 is acting jacked up too. The bottom two pictures posted here is sitting in the water. Nothing running. Console graph off, trolling motor off, and big motor off. WTH? Should I start a new post concerning the trolling motor graph?

[mxrcr4]

3. Test for AC Current between the battery terminals with engine running at idle. There should be NO MORE than .25VAC present.

Ok, did this. My Craftsman meter only has 2 VAC settings, 750 and 200. On the 200 setting meter read 28.1 on first touch with engine idling. Slowly crept up to 31 or so. What does this mean?

[EuropeanAM]

I would have your alternator tested. The reading you provided, IF CORRECT, indicates that a bridge diode in the alternator may have failed.

[mxrcr4]

Dan, Going to swap out units with a friend whose boat is equiped the same tomorrow. If we can't get anything figured out that way my next step will be to have the alternator checked per your instruction. Thanks for your help!

[mxrcr4]

Friends identical units did exactly the same thing mine did. Mine worked perfect on his boat. Got to be the new motor or wiring harness adapter.

[EuropeanAM]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by mxrcr4 &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">3. Test for AC Current between the battery terminals with engine running at idle. There should be NO MORE than .25VAC present.

Ok, did this. My Craftsman meter only has 2 VAC settings, 750 and 200. On the 200 setting meter read 28.1 on first touch with engine idling. Slowly crept up to 31 or so. What does this mean?</td></tr></table>

Just out of curiousity.... is this interference present with the ENGINE OFF- Key ON?

If not.... I would recommend having the alternator TESTED as suggested. A failed bridge diode (feeding excessive AC current to the battery) will cause PLENTY of interference... and swapping units as you described would have exactly the results you described.

[Legend_Master]

Wow this was a very good read. I'm having issues with my year old mercury 250 pro xs. Mine only had interference when I crank it up. I believe the local marine dealer called it a choke of some kind that looks like a donut hole that you put the power cable through it what powers the 1198???

[Savage]

You do know this thread is SEVEN years old right?