Performance problems? Read Here and Upgrade Fuel Supply System FIRST!

[EuropeanAM]

I have a 2010 Optimax 150 hp on a pontoon and recently I felt it was difficult to start after engine warmed up and I had to throttle a bit. When it was cold I had no problem starting the motor though. I went squeeze the fuel bulb and felt it wasn't as hard as at the beginning of the season and was like 70 percent full and gas was squeezed out at the front end of the bulb so apparently there was a leakage so I thought anyway I need to replace the fuel line and hope it would solve the start issue together. With zero knowledge of the engine thing, my first question is that so I place a pan to catch the gas in the existing line while I cut it and I do not need to worry about air in the new line as it will go away somewhere downstream of the bulb, (inside engine is ok) right?

And what are about two other lines that group with the fuel line with bulb? do I need to replace them?

And I am on Lake Murray Lexington SC, any recommendations for a technician that perform maintenance for Mercury? This year is the first I have the boat, and I am planning ahead for spring maintenance.

Thanks.

Welcome to BBC! As for the fuel lines, read Post#1 in this thread. It describes the line from the tank to the bulb and on into the engine (as well as other items that should be done AT THE SAME TIME to avoid further problems).

If you would, take a few moments to review the Announcements at the very top of the Forum. Good idea to open your own separate topic for your engine/questions in the future.

You're not that far from Greenville- and if you can make it up here, we can certainly assist you with any of your engine maintenance or repair needs. Office phone number is in my signature (below).

[Oneida Ranger Z520c]

2013 Mercury Pro XS 250 (1B935679)

As per this thread, I also checked and inspected the fuel line from the primer ball to the engine. And Yes it does have the newer fuel line (Gray with Blue print)

Question is, This fuel line was replaced or installed with the Flow Directional Arrow (Printing) Pointing to the Primer Ball and not pointing to the motor, as I would have installed it.
Should this fuel line be turned around? Or does it not really make any difference here? Primer Ball is pointed in the right direction.

Also, I really think this line was replaced at some point, it has worm clamps on each end.

[Savage]

I would get rid of any worm gear clamps.

[EuropeanAM]

Line is not directional- the arrows are simply some of the markings placed on the lines at what was "supposed" to be 1' intervals.

I prefer the arrows point to the engine, just to prevent the questions.

[Oneida Ranger Z520c]

Line is not directional- the arrows are simply some of the markings placed on the lines at what was "supposed" to be 1' intervals.

I prefer the arrows point to the engine, just to prevent the questions.

Thanks Don.....

[SeaCraftOptimax]

Don, I'm having an intermittent misfire/ rough running issue with my port motor (2000 200hp Opti). Here's the situation, when you first turn the key, it fires right up but she stutters a little bit for the first minute or two of running. Then, she smooths out with a stutter once every 30 secs to 2 minutes. I checked the fuel/ air (80/90 PSI), no codes on the Rinda tool, did cylinder drop test (everything good), and I even swapped BOTH the coils and wires from the starboard motor, yet she is still doing the same thing. I replaced the tracker valve on this motor last August because she was leaking and dumping fuel into the air side. I want to say it's a broken reed, but I feel like a broken reed wouldn't smooth itself out after idling a while. Here's what I think, it could very well be a pin hole leak in the diaphragm in the air pressure regulator or fuel pressure regulator. What are your thoughts here? Should I just leave it?

[Savage]

You should start your own thread....hi-jacking is not permitted according to the forum rules.

[SeaCraftOptimax]

Sorry, A little new at this. Doing it right now...

[johnmr12]

I have a 2001 optimax DFI 225. All of the fuel lines are black and original from 2001. Ethanol wasn't nearly as prevalent back then as it is now. Should I replace all of those fuel lines? If so, what tool do I need to install the metal clamps on the end of the high pressure pump?

[EuropeanAM]

I have a 2001 optimax DFI 225. All of the fuel lines are black and original from 2001. Ethanol wasn't nearly as prevalent back then as it is now. Should I replace all of those fuel lines? If so, what tool do I need to install the metal clamps on the end of the high pressure pump?

SUPPLY lines (tank to engine) are the primary concern. Most of the lines used inside the cowling would be alcohol resistant.

If you have further questions, let's put them in your own, separate thread for your specific engine/serial number. Thanks!

[bassfisher444]

I am not having any issues with mine currently I just want to replace the lines and primer bulb before I do because they are the original ones from 2010 as far as I know. Do still need to replace the diaphragm in the fuel pump? Also what's the difference between the grey and blue marine fuel hose?

[EuropeanAM]

If your pulse pump is original from 11+ years ago, I would absolutely recommend it be rebuilt. That's a KIT that includes gaskets, diaphragms, check valves, springs and spring ends.

Mercury does not offer a "blue" fuel hose (I have, however, seen several other brands blue in color on the B1-15).

[bassfisher444]

If your pulse pump is original from 11+ years ago, I would absolutely recommend it be rebuilt. That's a KIT that includes gaskets, diaphragms, check valves, springs and spring ends.

Mercury does not offer a "blue" fuel hose (I have, however, seen several other brands blue in color on the B1-15).

Do you sell the correct primer bulb and fuel hose? I am not seeing it on your website on any of the diagrams for my motor.

[EuropeanAM]

That would be because fuel line/length/configuration is often BOAT specific.

Drop Rhonda an email, and provide her with your serial number, Length of line from tank to bulb (where you plan to PUT the bulb, out of the sun is a plus), and length of line from bulk ALL THE WAY TO THE PULSE PUMP FITTING (eliminate the "whip" hose).

[520vx]

I finally decided to reupholster bench seat in my 2002 Ranger 520vx so I decided to replace fuel lines from tanks to selector switch and to the motor. I am also going to replace tank(s) fill hose. I was just wondering if the A1-15 fuel line is good for below and above deck.
I plan on changing fuel filter-water separator and rebuild diaphragm fuel pump. Any other recommendations? (2002 Mercury 225 Optimax ser#0T528474)...Thanks

[Savage]

I finally decided to reupholster bench seat in my 2002 Ranger 520vx so I decided to replace fuel lines from tanks to selector switch and to the motor. I am also going to replace tank(s) fill hose. I was just wondering if the A1-15 fuel line is good for below and above deck.
I plan on changing fuel filter-water separator and rebuild diaphragm fuel pump. Any other recommendations? (2002 Mercury 225 Optimax ser#0T528474)...Thanks

"Below" the deck line is only good for "below" the deck.

[EuropeanAM]

+1... use it only to the primer bulb.

[520vx]

Ok...3/8" A1-15 from tanks to switch, A1-15 3/8" switch to bulb then B1-15 bulb to engine

[EuropeanAM]

Ok...3/8" A1-15 from tanks to switch, A1-15 3/8" switch to bulb then B1-15 bulb to engine

Yes sir. Bulb and B1-15 should be Mercury/Quicksilver components (don't forget to rebuild your pulse pump and replace your fuel filter AT THE SAME TIME). See Post#1 in this thread for details.

[520vx]

Thanks Don