Many have asked about Winterizing and/or performing Annual Maintenance on their Optimax Engines.
Here's a list of what we perform here in our shop (and recommend) as "Once per year, or EVERY 100 HOURS, WHICHEVER OCCURS FIRST" (Items in RED are related to winterization, and may be skipped if doing maintenance during the boating season):
-Computer Diagnostic (to read Run History and Freeze Frame "Fault" History). Run cylinder misfire test (*A compression test here is also a good idea).
-Ensure fuel is properly stabilized
-Test run engine long enough to get stabilizer through system. At idle: 30 minutes! In the water, under load: 10+ minutes.
-Test or inspect Thermostats. Verify proper cooling (including telltale stream)
-Verify Engine Mounted oil tank COMPLETELY full (if not, BLEED AIR from the tank)
-Inspect fuel lines, oil lines, belt and tensioner
-Inspect Air Compressor Filter (not used on all models), and compressor inlet strainer. Clean or replace as necessary.
(Air Compressor Strainer Cleaning Instructions): <<<-Click on Blue Text
-Replace water separating filter (inspect for water and debris)
*While filter is out.... it's a good idea to add about 2 tsp of Quickleen & 2 tsp of Mercury Quickstore to the filter housing. Pump primer bulb firm, and run engine for at least 5 minutes on flush attachment.
-Replace spark plugs *** See note below if storing over 45 days.
-IMPORTANT- PROPER SPARK PLUG GAP: Wire gap tool, absolutely ZERO force between firing pin and arm (ever).
Use the "Go and No-Go" method.
-Grease all zerks on engine with 2-4-C Grease
-Grease balls on ends of trim rams (short trim rams)
-INSPECT STRIKER PLATES- REPLACE if worn or damaged
-Remove propeller
-Change Gear Lubricant w/Mercury High Performance Gear Lube
-Grease Prop Shaft, and Retorque Prop Nut
-Retorque Engine Mounting Fastners, Jackplate Hardware, Gearcase Hardware and Steering Hardware
-Check fluid level in Hydraulic Steering (if equipped)
-Replace water pump impeller and gaskets (at a minimum) *** See note below if storing over 45 days. Check gearcase mounting hardware (ALL) with a TORQUEWRENCH.
-Perform a careful visual inspection of the engine
-Drain water from speedometer and water pressure tubing (blow backwards through tubes to expel water) for protection from freezing.
-Treat/Protect livewells and pumps to prevent freezing damage
-Park boat with engine in the "full down position"
-Turn off, or disconnect batteries (unless you choose to charge them regularly).
IF ENGINE WILL SIT FOR MORE THAN 45 DAYS:
*Note: If putting the engine up for more than 45 days, it is a good idea to hold off on spark plug and water pump replacement until AFTER storage. Fogging of the engine is best accomplished by:
-Remove the spark plugs, and place approximately 1 teaspoon of Mercury or Quicksilver Premium Plus oil into each spark plug opening.
-(Optional... but I prefer to do this): Remove top flywheel cover. Place 8-12 DROPS of 2-stroke oil into the 1/2" ID Air Compressor Inlet. NOTE: ONLY 8-12 DROPS... too much oil is a BAD thing. This is done to help prevent internal rusting of the compressor's cylinder. SEE BELOW LINK:
LUBRICATING COMPRESSOR- WITH PICTURE
-Remove Lanyard Switch (disable engine ignition)
-Ground spark plug leads (with a spark tester, or with jumper wires... second precautionary measure to prevent ignition)
-Place an old towel across the back of the engine to reduce oil splashing.
-Spin the engine with the starter for 2-3 revolutions to distribute oil evenly.
-Reinstall spark plugs.
-Replace spark plugs and water pump when the boat is "recommissioned".
Additional Recommendations:
-Once every 3-4 years, it's wise to consider having your Fuel Rails and Injectors Cleaned/Serviced. If you're interested in this service: www.integrityinjection.net/injectorservice.html
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Originally Posted by LeeinAlabama
