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  1. Member
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    #161
    This one!
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob G. View Post
    Napa 7235 has the better posts for using the recommended clamp on terminals.
    Last edited by EuropeanAM; 07-22-2022 at 06:27 PM. Reason: Quote Syntax

  2. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    Greenville, SC (US)
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    #162
    POST#1 UPDATED WITH NEW INFORMATION FOR SELECT 4-STROKES: 9/26/2022.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  3. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #163

    Racing Models Added per Service Bulletin SHS 2022-21

    ALL CURRENT PRODUCTION RACING OUTBOARDS have been added to the notes in Post# 1


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  4. Member
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    Mar 2021
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    Chenoa,IL
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    10
    #164
    Looking at getting a new dual purpose battery for a 1999 250 pro xs. Should I go with the X2 AGM or the Dakota lithium dual purpose?

  5. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #165
    Quote Originally Posted by jp24ducks View Post
    Looking at getting a new dual purpose battery for a 1999 250 pro xs. Should I go with the X2 AGM or the Dakota lithium dual purpose?
    No such engine. Better clarify the engine before we answer.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  6. Member
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    Mar 2017
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    Green Bay, WI
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    3
    #166
    Looking for some help here... searched high and low and can't seem to find a straight answer. Looking for a cranking battery for a 2000 mercury 225 EFI - serial number OT165957. It will also be powering 2 helix 10s and a helix 12 along with radio, pumps, lights etc... I've read enough on here to see there is some concern with using an AGM cranking battery for these era engines due to it using stator to re-charge battery instead of alternator - is that correct?

    What version is my engine - stator or alternator?

    Can I use an AGM for cranking/electronics with my motor?

  7. Member
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    May 2011
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    Spangle, WA
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    #167
    Quote Originally Posted by WiscoRanger94 View Post
    Looking for some help here... searched high and low and can't seem to find a straight answer. Looking for a cranking battery for a 2000 mercury 225 EFI - serial number OT165957. It will also be powering 2 helix 10s and a helix 12 along with radio, pumps, lights etc... I've read enough on here to see there is some concern with using an AGM cranking battery for these era engines due to it using stator to re-charge battery instead of alternator - is that correct?

    What version is my engine - stator or alternator?

    Can I use an AGM for cranking/electronics with my motor?
    Pull the cowl and look, is there a belt from the flywheel to an alternator? If yes, you can use an AGM, if no belt you have a stator style charging system and cannot use an AGM.
    _______

    Phil
    '09 Hewescraft ProV
    '09 150 Optimax


  8. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #168
    Quote Originally Posted by WiscoRanger94 View Post
    Looking for some help here... searched high and low and can't seem to find a straight answer. Looking for a cranking battery for a 2000 mercury 225 EFI - serial number OT165957. It will also be powering 2 helix 10s and a helix 12 along with radio, pumps, lights etc... I've read enough on here to see there is some concern with using an AGM cranking battery for these era engines due to it using stator to re-charge battery instead of alternator - is that correct?

    What version is my engine - stator or alternator?

    Can I use an AGM for cranking/electronics with my motor?
    Your engine serial number used a traditional, belt-driven alternator.

    AGM battery is fine for use with this engine, as is a traditional lead-acid WET CELL battery.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  9. Member MercuryMan's Avatar
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    #169
    EuropeanAM

    Out of these 2 batteries (Odyseey or X2), which would you choose? I have a Sears PM1 now since 2015 and although it seems to be fine I want to replace just in case.

    Thank you for all your information, this forum wouldn't be the same without you!

    Steve

  10. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #170
    I'd probably go with the Odyssey if it's readily available.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  11. Member
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    #171
    I'd choose an Odyssey or Northstar based on some comments here about after sale support on X2s (could just be a local "thing"). My PM-1 is still in use just not in my boat.
    _______

    Phil
    '09 Hewescraft ProV
    '09 150 Optimax


  12. Member MercuryMan's Avatar
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    #172
    Odyssey is not available, but they can order. I’ll go that route then, thank you!

  13. Member
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    Battle Lake, MN
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    #173
    I am running a 2015 Mercury Pro XS 250. My cranking is s blue optima 900 CCA. I am running a 100 AH Lithium for all of my electronics. Does the blue top optima meet my needs as the cranking battery for this motor? The motor is the only thing connected to this battery.
    Shane Osborne
    Land of Oz Retrievers
    Battle Lake, MN

  14. Member
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    #174
    Quote Originally Posted by landofozretrievers View Post
    I am running a 2015 Mercury Pro XS 250. My cranking is s blue optima 900 CCA. I am running a 100 AH Lithium for all of my electronics. Does the blue top optima meet my needs as the cranking battery for this motor? The motor is the only thing connected to this battery.
    Meets engine only minimum of 800CCA.
    _______

    Phil
    '09 Hewescraft ProV
    '09 150 Optimax


  15. Member
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    Nov 2021
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    Clarksville, TN
    Posts
    170
    #175
    I'll start with my operating system specs, 2021 Caymas CX20, with Mercury 250 Pro XS, running two Garmin 122SVs, one 126SV, and LVS32 Livescope. All the latter electronics are connected to the cranking battery. I do not recall the specs of the battery that came with the boat when I bought it, but just know it was Deka, 12V, 31 AGM, unsure of the CCA, MCA, and AH. Back in April after a considerable long day of fishing I went to start my big motor to head to the ramp.....it clicked...and nothing, wouldn't even trim. Tried the jump switch, still nothing. Fortunately, with nightfall rapidly approaching, I was able to flag down a fellow fisherman for a tow. Long story short once at the ramp we were able to get enough juice to crank it so I could trim and get it on the trailer. Took the battery to Auto Zone and it tested bad, so after research, but apparently not enough research, I purchase a Duracell Deep Cycle 12V, 31 AGM with 800 CCA, 110AH. Being a new boater and taking into consideration of being stranded..again, I also purchased a NOCO Jump Box.

    Fast forward a couple months the past two times out fishing, and they were not particularly long days I started having battery issues. First time, after running for about two hours on electronics in a bay I noticed the big engine started a bit hard when we went to move. After moving to the next spot, about a 5 to 10 minute ride, we fished for about an hour, went to move...motor clicked and nothing. Thankfully the NOCO Jump Box saved the day and it cranked right up when I connected it.

    Second time out, fishing about two hours, went to move and it struggled to start again. Ran about 10 to 15 minutes to the next stop, fished about an hour or so. Went to move, click, and nothing. NOCO Jump Box to the rescue again.

    At this point I figured it may be a bad battery and started at maybe looking at getting a better battery. Then I found this thread on BBC and needing 975 CCA at minimum for a 250 AND that I bought a Deep Cycle vs a Cranking battery....well crap wish I had known that before buying my current battery . So I take it to Batteries Plus and they test it and of course it tests good. Despite my lack of research, the extremely understanding staff permitted me to exchange my two month old/ used battery for their X2 Power 12V, 31 AGM, Duel Purpose Crank/ Deep Cycle, 1150 CCA, 100AH and just had to pay the difference. Customer Service at its finest I am hoping the extra punch with the new battery will keep me from having my previous issues, but time will tell. Based on the math of the amp draw of my electronics I should be able to run awhile and still maintain the extra punch to start my big motor.

    I did consider going Lithium, but after speaking with my dealer who I purchased the boat from and does my servicing did not recommend it based on the gray area between Mercury, lithium batteries, and warranties. An area of opinion/ contention for many I am sure.

    I also need to take my boat in to figure out why my jump switch is not working. I am guessing something did not get hooked up right, because it should have started pulling juice off my trolling motor battery each time I tried using it.

    SO, this leads me to some questions:

    Batteries Plus Tech informed me 31 AGM batteries the way they are designed and manufactured are essentially both Cranking and Deep Cycle, even if the battery says it is a Deep Cycle or vice versa. True or False?

    MCA vs CCA what is the difference?

    Based on my math I should be able to run around 9 hours with my current amp draw of my electronics, but is that run time really accurate for a battery that is used for both cranking and deep cycle?

    Any thoughts, guidance, insight would be appreciated. Thanks!

  16. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    Jun 2004
    Location
    SW Indiana
    Posts
    26,089
    #176
    Quote Originally Posted by Carpenater77 View Post
    I'll start with my operating system specs, 2021 Caymas CX20, with Mercury 250 Pro XS, running two Garmin 122SVs, one 126SV, and LVS32 Livescope. All the latter electronics are connected to the cranking battery. I do not recall the specs of the battery that came with the boat when I bought it, but just know it was Deka, 12V, 31 AGM, unsure of the CCA, MCA, and AH. Back in April after a considerable long day of fishing I went to start my big motor to head to the ramp.....it clicked...and nothing, wouldn't even trim. Tried the jump switch, still nothing. Fortunately, with nightfall rapidly approaching, I was able to flag down a fellow fisherman for a tow. Long story short once at the ramp we were able to get enough juice to crank it so I could trim and get it on the trailer. Took the battery to Auto Zone and it tested bad, so after research, but apparently not enough research, I purchase a Duracell Deep Cycle 12V, 31 AGM with 800 CCA, 110AH. Being a new boater and taking into consideration of being stranded..again, I also purchased a NOCO Jump Box.

    Fast forward a couple months the past two times out fishing, and they were not particularly long days I started having battery issues. First time, after running for about two hours on electronics in a bay I noticed the big engine started a bit hard when we went to move. After moving to the next spot, about a 5 to 10 minute ride, we fished for about an hour, went to move...motor clicked and nothing. Thankfully the NOCO Jump Box saved the day and it cranked right up when I connected it.

    Second time out, fishing about two hours, went to move and it struggled to start again. Ran about 10 to 15 minutes to the next stop, fished about an hour or so. Went to move, click, and nothing. NOCO Jump Box to the rescue again.

    At this point I figured it may be a bad battery and started at maybe looking at getting a better battery. Then I found this thread on BBC and needing 975 CCA at minimum for a 250 AND that I bought a Deep Cycle vs a Cranking battery....well crap wish I had known that before buying my current battery . So I take it to Batteries Plus and they test it and of course it tests good. Despite my lack of research, the extremely understanding staff permitted me to exchange my two month old/ used battery for their X2 Power 12V, 31 AGM, Duel Purpose Crank/ Deep Cycle, 1150 CCA, 100AH and just had to pay the difference. Customer Service at its finest I am hoping the extra punch with the new battery will keep me from having my previous issues, but time will tell. Based on the math of the amp draw of my electronics I should be able to run awhile and still maintain the extra punch to start my big motor.

    I did consider going Lithium, but after speaking with my dealer who I purchased the boat from and does my servicing did not recommend it based on the gray area between Mercury, lithium batteries, and warranties. An area of opinion/ contention for many I am sure.

    I also need to take my boat in to figure out why my jump switch is not working. I am guessing something did not get hooked up right, because it should have started pulling juice off my trolling motor battery each time I tried using it.

    SO, this leads me to some questions:

    Batteries Plus Tech informed me 31 AGM batteries the way they are designed and manufactured are essentially both Cranking and Deep Cycle, even if the battery says it is a Deep Cycle or vice versa. True or False?

    MCA vs CCA what is the difference?

    Based on my math I should be able to run around 9 hours with my current amp draw of my electronics, but is that run time really accurate for a battery that is used for both cranking and deep cycle?

    Any thoughts, guidance, insight would be appreciated. Thanks!
    AGMs are fine in either deep cycle or cranking application. CCA is a tested, industry-standard measure of battery performance. MCA is a non-standard number to allow manufacturers to put a bigger number on a battery. It’s claimed that MCA is measured at 32F, but no one really measures it. Stick with CCA.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

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